Tag: Auto Exterior Cleaning

This article is in response to a question from one of our visitors. She wrote:

I have an Airstream camper and I would like to know what is the best for cleaning and polishing exterior Aluminum.

Aluminum is great. It oxidizes which actually protects the metal beneath, unlike iron based metals which will rust all the way through until there is nothing left. I had no idea how dramatic the before and after photographs where, until I look at one website.

Here is one of the antique (1964) trailers that they restored:
Before Polishing

Buffed and ready to go!

There are companies that actually refinish these trailers, but I almost wanted to switch professions when I found out what they charge! It costs $100 per foot!! (Including the bumper in the measurement)

So your 25 foot trailer will cost $2500 to restore! Yikes! No wonder you asked us! You can probably do it yourself, but expect to spend the first two weeks (80 hours) of your vacation, and a couple hundred dollars in supplies to get similar results.

The first thing you need to determine, is if your trailer has a clear coating on the aluminum. This would have been applied after, as it was not included in the factory finish. The clear coating is good and bad. It is good because it protects the aluminum, to keep the “new” look for three or four years, until the clear coat itself begins to haze and dull. Then it becomes bad, because there is no way to polish the aluminum that is covered with this clear coat of paint, and there is no easy way to remove the paint, either. If you find your trailer is clear coated, you will need to source out a professional company to help you.

How do you know if it is coated? Buy a metal polish (I like Maguire’s) from your local automotive detailer. It is usually sold in small tins for refinishing aluminum wheels. Using a clean, dry rag, rub a little onto the surface of your trailer in an inconspicuous spot. Continue rubbing, and if there is no clear coat, the rag will begin to turn black. Continuing buffing with a fresh clean dry area of the cloth, this surface will polish to a brilliant shine. If it is clear coated, the clear coat may look cleaner, however the rag will not turn black.

So now you have a six inch circle polished on your trailer. Look at how big your trailer is. Do you have the gumption to attack this your self?

You can make it a bit easier on yourself, buy buying a good quality orbital auto polisher. Not one that goes in your 12 Volt automotive outlet, but a powerful 120 Volt unit. A more aggressive polishing wheel for a drill or angle grinder will speed up work, but these can also cause damage to the metal if you are not careful.

The first step is to wash the trailer thoroughly, and rinse it off very well. With the polisher you will need several different application and buffing bonnets. You can probably easily attack a 3 foot square section at a time, applying the polish with the first bonnet, and continuing to change the bonnet when they become soiled. I expect it would take at least half a dozen bonnets for each section, and likely an hour or so to complete one 3 X 3 (9 square foot) section. The bonnets can be laundered, however the heavily soiled ones may not clean very well.

Once you have polished the whole trailer, I would apply at least 2 coats of quality automotive paste wax, buffing after each coat, to minimize the damage from the elements. If your trailer is not as badly oxidized as the one in the photo, you might be able to get away with a less abrasive liquid metal polish (which is often marketed as a stainless steel polish). Check with a janitorial supplier. The liquid will be creamy or blue, and in a spray bottle (NOT an aerosol can). DO NOT use a greasy clear petroleum liquid found in aerosol spray cans (and marketed as stainless steel cleaner) it WILL NOT WORK!!!

If you do undertake this big job, I hope you will also find time to go camping this summer!

Good luck!

What’s he best cheapest way to clean an aluminum horse trailer. Mine has lost it’s luster and shine?

Tammy

Nothing to do with horses is cheap. This may not cost a lot from your pocket book, but it will cost in elbow grease.
First wash the trailer as you would your car or truck, scrub and rinse thoroughly.
The next step is to polish the metal. There are three different types of cleaners you can use for aluminum. All of the following cleaners are applied with one rag, and rubbed in, and then polished (buffed) with a different clean, dry, soft, cotton cloth before the chemical dries.

i) Paste type metal polishes. Which would be far to consuming for an entire trailer, however it will offer a much more aggressive polish than the next two types. This is good for areas that have heavy oxidation (near the wheels where salt water splashes up). The finish is usually very good, however it is no more resilient to subsequent marking and soiling.

ii) Foaming type generic metal polishes. These work well, however I find when buffing the metal, there is an over abundance of residue left from the cleaner. My polishing rag quickly becomes saturated with residue, rendering it useless. The finish is excellent, and can be buffed to a very shiny surface. The finish is very resistant to subsequent marking.

iii) Trigger spray liquid polishes. Usually bluish or creamy in color, these cleaners do an effective job of cleaning, and when buffed do not leave excessive residue in your polishing rag. The finish is excellent, and can also be buffed to a very shiny surface. The finish is very resistant to subsequent marking. This is my preference.

I would look for these chemicals at a janitorial supplier, most may be marketed as a stainless steel cleaner, however DO NOT use an aerosol spray type of stainless steel polish that is oil based and clear. If you spray some and it feels greasy, it WILL NOT WORK on aluminum for your purpose. Do a small section at a time (about 3 square feet). Apply some cleaner with a rag, then buff (you can use an automotive polisher) until the shine is restored. Once the entire trailer is done, protect the work you have invested with a high quality paste wax. At least two coats should be applied, buffing the wax between each coat.

General Information:

A cut polish is used to remove old wax, surface oxidation, road grime, and anything else that may be on the surface of a cars original finish.

Tools & Techniques:

Best done by a professional, but to cut polish your automotive finish there are a number of commercially available products. A polishing paste is applied in a similar manner as an automotive wax. The difference between a polishing paste and a wax is that while a wax leaves a protective finish, polishing paste contains minute abrasives that remove surface imperfections and built up residue. After using a polishing paste the vehicle still requires a full waxing, as polishing paste may remove any old protectant, leaving the vehicle more vulnerable to environmental damage.

General Information:

To wax automotive finishes there are a number of commercially available waxes, including pastes, liquids, and sprays. Wax is a very important aspect of your vehicles appearance and longevity. Wax is an effective, very thin, durable, barrier between the painted surface and the environment. Most experts recommend waxing your automobile twice per year once at the beginning of winter and once at the beginning of summer. These are the two most extreme seasons and waxing at these times offers the best protection.

Tools & Technique:

First wash your car thoroughly. Feel the surface if it is rough to the touch after washing you may need to find a proffessional for a cut polish. Apply the wax on a small area, by rubbing in a circular motion. Allow the wax to dry to a haze, then buff to a polish with a clean cotton cloth. Old cloth diapers are the best, but any thick cotton cloth that has been previously washed will polish without leaving lint. Two coats of wax will provide a deeper shine and added protection.