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Cleaning The Gutters

Gutters help move all of the moisture that collects on your roof, away from your home. Pretty straight forward, but usually the only time we even look at our gutters is when they aren’t doing their job, or when we hang our Christmas lights. Regular maintenance will ensure that you gutters don’t leak, get clogged, or cause damage to your roof.

In the fall, after the bulk of leaves have fallen, BUT before the snow comes, you should check you gutters. A clogged gutter can cause snow and water to back up underneath the shingles. This, with the freezing and thawing cycles of the spring and fall, can cause serious damage to a roof. It is also helpful in the spring to be sure they have not been damaged by these winter freezing cycles, and to be certain they will be ready for “April showers”. Use an approved ladder, preferably with an assembly that will allow the ladder to lean on the roof itself, instead of against the gutter.

Most gutters are thin gauge metal, or even plastic, which can be badly damaged by leaning the ladder directly on them. Before starting, it can be a good idea to use a garden hose to wash any loose debris from the roof into the gutters. Take a small pail, or plastic garbage bag up the ladder with you. Wearing rubber gloves, scoop any debris from the gutter into the pail or bag. A two inch putty knife can be a great help in removing stubborn collections of gunk. Work your way along the gutter, and never stretch beyond a comfortable reach when standing on a ladder.

A final rinsing with the garden hose, can remove small bits of debris that you may have missed. While you are checking the gutter, it is a good idea to tighten screws or tap in nails which have loosened.

If the downspout is slow to drain, or plugged completely, use a garden hose to push the debris out with a strong stream of water. If the downspout goes directly into a drain, you should undo the connection, to avoid pushing the debris into the drain itself.

Yards & Lawn

The yard is probably the most popular place to spend most of your time and also is probably the biggest creator of summer projects. To start with spread the work over a few weekends so it isn’t as overwhelming. For most, because we spend much less time outside during winter, our yards are neglected. There are exceptions, like the fortunate residents of Florida and Hawaii, but for the most part being beneath a foot of snow puts our yards at the bottom of our priorities.

Then the snow melts, and you wonder, where did all of THIS come from. Snow carries with it, pollution and dust, which is left behind when the snow melts. The freezing and thawing cycles of winter can push rocks up to the top of the soil, crack concrete patios, and shift improperly built fences and structures.

The first task would be to survey the entire yard. Walk your entire fence line to check for visible damage. Shake the posts to see if they are secure. Check for damaged boards, rotten posts, and evidence of mildew or fungus. There are many products available for cleaning fences and protecting them from future weathering. Some of the best environmentally friendly (safe for lawns and plants) products available is made by Biowash, which can be found at most Home Centers.

Retaining walls should also be inspected for cracks, or movement. There should be material (ie. crushed rock) that drains well behind retaining walls, so excessive moisture does not build up and cause damage during freezing cycles. Water is also very heavy, and may stress walls if there is no means for drainage.

The best general cleaning of a yard involves removing fallen branches and twigs, sweeping and hosing down drives and walks. Check driveway for fluid leaks from vehicles. Absorb as much as possible using, non clumping kitty litter, or a commercially available absorbent powder. Remember antifreeze tastes sweet, and attracts pets, however it can be fatal for pets that lick it up.

The Attic

Attic’s are a very important part of our homes, however people tend to ignore them until they have no choice but to inspect them. Come the spring thaw, when your roof begins leaking, damaging drywall, paint, and furniture, it is too late for a preventative inspection.

Attics are a buffer in two very important ways. The attic is NOT heated. In fact, outside air should circulate freely within an attic for proper circulation. This does the important job of keeping moisture levels down, which is the second way an attic acts as a buffer. Every attic should have vents to permit air flow. Most of these vents are in the eaves, and in many cases they are assisted with a “whirly bird” attic vent on the roof itself. A dry, cool attic is a functional part of every house.

A dry attic should not have a pest problem, however a warm, moist attic is a recipe for not only mold and mildew, but insects and rodents can thrive. The other common pests are birds and bats which can enter very small holes to nest. It is a good idea to have all vents screened to prevent this problem.

Rodents can be particularly harmful in an attic. They can gain access to much of your home, their urine smells and will permeate through the ceiling, and they can damage everything from electrical wiring to vapor barriers.

When inspecting your attic, pay special attention to the wooden structure of the roof itself. Watch for variations in the coloring to look for possible breaches in the exterior water proof membrane. This is most common around chimneys and plumbing vents. As well, on the bottom 3 or 4 feet of the roof above the eaves, and in valleys where 2 roofing surfaces meet are critical areas. Cycles of freezing and thawing found in the spring can sometime cause water to flow UP, underneath the shingles or tile, and leak into the attic.

Check the seal of your attic hatch using a candle. Light it, and then blow it out so it will smoke. Run the candle around the perimeter of the hatch to see if the smoke is drawn in, or blown out. If either occurs, add a strip of foam weather seal to the hatch.

Check for the storage of chemicals. Do the containers have labels? Are they out of reach of small children? Are the products still effective, or have they expired?

Dirty Walls

The most important thing to remember when cleaning walls is to start at the bottom and work your way up. If you start at the top, dirty water runs down the wall leaving very dirty streaks, however if you start at the bottom, any runs are much easier to wipe off a freshly cleaned wall.

Semi gloss and gloss paints can easily be cleaned (this is what most kitchens and bathrooms have on the walls), a flat finish can only be cleaned if it is a light color. Dark colors tend to show marks very badly, and will usually look much worse than before being “cleaned”.

  • Before washing, dust or vacuum walls to remove loose dust and soil.
  • Use a drop cloth when washing walls.
  • Most painted surfaces can be cleaned with a mild solution of warm water and liquid dishwashing detergent and then rinsed with clear water. You’ll need two buckets – one for the cleaning solution and one for the rinse water and two big sponges.
  • Working in overlapping sections, apply the cleaning solution to the walls by rubbing gently in a circular motion.
  • Rinse with a separate sponge reserved specifically for the rinse water. After you’re done with one section, proceed to the next area, making sure that the cleaning edges overlap.
  • When you’ve done several areas, dry off the excess moisture with a terry cloth or towel.
  • If the walls are very dirty, you can use a stronger solution to dissolve the dirt. Use a TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) solution, especially before painting.  Caution: TSP will dull all surfaces, and may remove paint, particularly flat finishes.
  • Test your chemical in an inconspicuous corner first to make sure that the paint colour and finish are not damaged by cleaning. When using TSP, wear protective eyewear, rubber gloves, and a long-sleeve shirt. Always read the label for proper usage and safety precautions.

Cleaning Rags and Sponges

To disinfect your kitchen cleaning rags or sponges soak in 1/2 to 3/4 cup of bleach and 4 liters (1 gallon) of water.  I sometimes throw my sponges in the dishwasher.  I try to clean the kitchen cleaning cloths once every week or so in addition to regular laundering.

Toilet Brushes

Always buy/use a completely plastic toilet bowl brush.  The round or oval shapes ones on a metal frame will put dark scratches in the bowl as the brushes wear down.

Stickers or Sticker Residue

Super sticky sticker stuff..

Say that 5 times really fast.

One of the more common questions we get is how to remove sticker residue. Often glassware comes with price tags that when you remove the sticker, the sticky part remains. Not very convenient when you are pulling out the 10th wine glass from the cabinet when you have a dinner party only to realize that the sticker has yet to be removed.

  • One the easiest solutions is to use WD-40; as it breaks down the sticker residue safely in most cases. It will leave an oily residue which is easily cleaned using soap and water.
  • You can also use a solvent like nail polish remover, but solvents can be more harmful on certain surfaces.
  • To remove sticky residue from something like clothes, use dry cleaning fluid, found in the laundry section of some department stores or your local janitorial supply store. Or you can just get it cleaned at the cleaners. Soap and water or detergent doesn’t break down the sticky residue very well.
  • If you have stickers on glass windows what ever you do, DO NOT use something abrasive like steel wool or an SOS pad, this can and will scratch some glass. You are far better off buying a flat razor which is meant for the job. Found at your local hardware store. Spray some water or Windex on the surface and scrape off the sticky residue with the flat razor. Use caution the handle can get slippery. I find using water or Windex helps the razor from gumming up too quickly with the sticky stuff and you can go longer before replacing blades.

One of my pet peeves is buying pictures which have stickers on the glass front (I won’t mention names…Winners and Homesense) its really frustrating to have to clean off the sticker. It takes longer to do that than hang the picture most times.  Sometimes I wet a cleaning cloth with water and just let it sit on the sticker for 20 minutes and usually it comes off okay.  My question is why can’t we put the price sticker on the back of the picture?…

Vomit, Throw up, Barf, Upchuck (ewww!)

Cleaning Vomit act fast!!

Vomit contains acids which can and likely will permanently damage many fabrics.  The most basic tip which my Mom taught me decades ago is to use cool water to rinse out organic stains like, blood, vomit or urine.  Heat will set the stain.

  • First remove any large chunks etc. Yes, I know that sounds gross, but whenever you are removing any stain blot or scrape off as much as you can before trying to remove the stain with any cleaning technique.
  • Organic stains can often be removed by just soaking and agitating in cold water before washing. Soak in cold water using a detergent or enzyme presoak product for about 30 minutes. Soak old stains for at least several hours.
  • Launder in warm (not hot) water, rinse, and inspect. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes, then rewash. (Never put a stained fabric in a dryer. The heat from the dryer will likely set the stain.)
  • If color stain remains, launder using chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or with all fabric bleach. Always check for colorfastness first.

Stickers on Clothes

To remove a sticky label that refuses to peel off a new piece of clothing, try this:

  • Spray the label with ordinary rubbing alcohol, or, if you don’t have any rubbing alcohol, use non-aerosol hairspray. Or use a dry cleaning fluild, which can be purchased at any janitorial supply store.
  • Blot with a thick (white) terry towel or gently scrape the label off the clothing with a paring knife, a butter knife or another straight edge, such as a credit card or a ruler.

Wax On Carpet

If the wax is clear it is not as hard as you might think.

  • The first thing you need to do is remove as much of the hardened wax as you can. A butter or putty knife works well for this but you can use anything with a dull blade. Scrape up what you can and vacuum the debris.
  • Next place a clean white cloth, paper bag or paper towel over the wax. Run a warm iron over the cloth until the wax melts. A hot hair dryer can also be used.
  • Once the wax is melted, it should adhere to the cloth. Lift the cloth and the wax should lift with it. Use only a white terry cloth so there is no other color transfer.

It should be noted that if the wax is colored, it may stain your carpet. Anytime you apply heat to a stain, it causes the stain to lock into the fibers leaving you with a permanent reminder of your clumsiness. It’s for this reason you should use a warm iron only.

If you’re left with a stain once the wax is removed, you’ll have to contend with that as well. Usually the remaining stain will be dye related.  The best course of action would be to find an IICRC certified carpet cleaner

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