“How do I clean a hardwood floor without refinishing?”
You can use a few different off the shelf products which both clean and add polish to the floor. You should be sure that you have swept or vacuumed the floor well before using these products. Since they have solids (wax) in them, dust will affect the appearance.
You could also use a wood soap such as a Murphy’s Oil soap which will leave a bit of a sheen after cleaning. However the shine will not last with the above methods and you will have to constantly re-apply them.
If you have hardwood that is very worn you may have to apply the cleaner/polish product a few times to get the shine up as the wood absorbs the wax.
Use a hardwood floor mop and a spray bottle to apply the cleaner/polish. Spray only an area that you can effectively clean. A hardwood floor mop looks like a dust mop only the fibers are shorter with a large surface area for polishing and cleaning. If you don’t have a mop use something like a beach towel which will do an effective job of polishing, but is hard on the knees.
Hmmmm, laundering money? If our tip works do we get a cut? If the dye is from a marker, or pen we would suggest acetone.
If it is from, say, a loaded bundle of twenties, lifted from your local financial institution, I have been told that this dye is very, very permanent. In fact a show I watched said it was made from a similar dye used to print money, which if true, would mean if you CAN find a way to successfully remove the dye, you would also rub out George Washington.
Try these techniques :
My first shot would be the acetone, and failing that there are some very powerful solvents such as GOOF OFF, which are available at your local home center, which are used for graffiti removal that might work.
If all else fails, you can wait for the heat to die down, move upstate, and hope the story about dropping a tin of paint into your wallet holds up. Even so I wouldn’t worry too much, I think most lawyers will take dirty money!
This question was submitted by Tammy; “A pen got into the dryer, how do I remove the ink?”
Conveniently one of the Forum experts had the same thing happen to him not very long ago.
Tools & Techniques:
Clean dry cleaning rags
Multi use solvent
1. First do NOT run the dryer anymore, heat absolutely sets ink stains.
2. Using a clean dry cleaning rag wipe as much ink off as possible. If you catch it before the heat has set, then you have a good chance of total removal.
3. In my case there was an extreme amount of ink and I wiped what I could. Next I got progressively more aggressive with my cleaning compounds. I started by using a large towel and poured a mixture of warm water and dish soap on the towel and placed it in the drum in an attempt to have some of the ink soak into the towel since there was so much ink. I had marginal success with that, but I was able to get some off and especially were there were large amounts of ink.
4. Then I used a multi-use solvent designed to break down gum, glue, ink etc. Caution: Solvents are flammable, be sure the dryer is cool, and there is very good ventilation when working. Pouring the solvent on my clean dry white cleaning rags I slowly worked on my dryer drum, using numerous cleaning rags I was able to remove alot of the ink.
5. The problem I was having was ink under the agitators (usually plastic). The ink on the plastic came off well with the solvent, but ink had pooled under the agitators. I poured a general purpose cleaner along the edge and a fair bit of ink came out. I did not pour the solvent since I did not want to much flammable material to be used.
6. The key was I took my time and used alot of rags always pouring the solvent on them and removing as much ink as possible.
7. Now I had so much ink that I eventually used paint thinner to remove more ink. Now paint thinner is also very flammable so I used it with caution. I did not nor would I recommend running the dryer for at least 24 hours, waiting for all the vapor to dissipate first. This is why I did not pour the solvent directly into the drum.
8. Now all this took some time and effort and after it was all done I did not even get 100% of the ink removed only about 70% so I was a little frustrated. After about 24 hours I ran the dryer only on air fluff to be sure there was no vapor. And I washed and dried some work clothes to absorb any ink that may not have come off.
9. It has been a couple months now and it looks like a little more ink has come off but I have seen absolutely no ink on any clothes. To summarize be patient and realize that it probably will not be perfect and you will have to live with some ink stains on your dryer drum but overall it will have no impact on your dryers performance. I will NEVER again forget to remove my pens from my pocket (I hope…) this was one tough job. Good Luck
Rubber tile floors are made of natural or synthetic rubbers colored by mineral pigments. It has a non-porous, smooth surface resistant to most stains, abrasion and cleaners. Although very durable, rubber floors can be damaged by oil, solvents, abrasive cleaners, harsh alkalis and sunlight, which can discolor the rubber. All of the above can make the floor lose its elasticity.
Vacuuming is the easiest way to remove dust and lint. Regular cleaning is best with detergent and water. Rubber floors can be finished if a shiny surface is desired.
If the paint has dried you have a challenge.
Try these techniques :
For an old stain try using a paint remover (from a hardware store). Test a small area first. This is a fairly harsh chemical designed to turn paint to mush so it can be removed from furniture for refinishing etc.
Scrape and remove (using a spoon) as much of the paint as possible.
If the paint remover is working apply more as needed. Be careful not scrub, this will force the paint deep into fibers, and can also damage the fibres leaving a hole or much lighter appearance.
If the stain is still there, cover with glycerin and let sit for several hours in an attempt to loosen the stain.
Then treat as a fresh stain and start by sponging out as much of the stain as possible before applying a laundry pre-treat – launder in warm water. Do not put in the dryer. Inspect the stain to see if you have to try again to remove it. The heat from the dryer will set the stain!
If you are fond of these pants try going to a professional cleaner. Point out the stain and ask if they think they can remove it; they likely can with better results than trying at home.
If the paint is oil based the pre-treatment should be a solvent designed for oil based paint (paint thinner).
Check the food you are feeding you pet. Beet products will cause red in tears that stain white fur. In cats, excessive discharge from an infected eye can actually stain light colored fur reddish brown! There are mutliple causes of eye infections in cats, many can be treated, however some are also indications of very serious health concerns and CAN be fatal. The best course of action is to visit your vet as quickly as possible.
Treat the attic of a detached garage like the attic of your home, if it is insulated. If it is not insulated, the garage itself is likely not heated. If the garage has a musty smell, try to increase circulation by adding vents.
Check for pests, such as termites on the sill plate and sills. Check for rodents inside, and if you find evidence there are a variety of different controls you can use from poison to traps. However you choose to remove them, be certain to seal up the way they entered your home to start with. Inspect weather seals, stuff mothballs or steel wool into cracks and holes.
Sweep floor. Apply cat litter to spills of oil, antifreeze, etc to absorb substance. Use a heavy duty degreaser and damp mop garage floor to remove salt.
Check for the storage of chemicals. Do the containers have labels? Are they out of reach of small children? Are the products still effective, or have they expired?
Check you garage door opener. Lubricate rollers on door, hinges, and drive train. Put a 2 X 4 on the ground under the door. Close the door. Does it stop and rebound? Does it stop at all? If there is an infrared sensor, be certain the beam is lined up correctly, and that the wood interrupts the beam. If this is the case the door should not even start. This is the single largest moving piece of equipment in your home and you use it twice per day. Be certain it is safe and maintained and it will serve you for many years.
If your garage is heated, clean furnace, change filter, and shut off gas for the summer.
Check the drains around your garage. Is there a floor drain? Is there a drain in a below grade entrance? Is there a trough at the entrance (usually found when there is a drive way which slopes down into the garage) that needs to be cleaned?
If you have a detached garage, check gutters, shingles, and the condition of the paint.
Check CO2 and smoke detector batteries. Also check gauge or “Test” button on fire extinguishers. ABC dry chemical extinguishers should be turned upside down and tapped lightly to move around the chemical inside. Confirm expiry date. If expired, take to be re-charged and tested, or purchase a new extinguisher.
The first thing to do is remove excess debris, use a pool skimmer or make a skimmer yourself by stretching an old pair a pantyhose over a wire clothes hanger. If the pond is really bad you should empty the pond and then clean, but do this no more than once per year by removing fish etc and draining the water for a thorough cleaning.
Be sure to use a de-chlorinating agent for the water in the bucket or wading pool you’ll be using as a holding tank for the fish while cleaning (use 50:50 fresh water and pond water). Remove silt and debris from the bottom of the pond (it makes good fertilizer). If you have plants remove and place in a shady area so they do not dry out. Use a brush to scrape down the sides. When refilling the pond pour half of the holding tank water in the pond to inoculate the pond with healthy bacteria for the fish, fill the pond and be sure to use a de-chlorinating agent.
Reintroduce the fish slowly by filling the fish holding tank with water of the same temperature as the water in the pond. Pour in half of the water from fish holding container into the pond, and then re-fill the holding container, and once it is full again, empty another 50% into the pond. Repeat this process to slowly change the water temperature, until the fish pond is full again.
Be sure to also clean the filtration system, this is best done by rinsing with water as any soap residue will harm the fish. Removed much of the pond water before trying to net the fish, as it will be easier than trying to catch them with the water full. You shouldn’t clean your pond more than one per year since it take time for the beneficial bacteria to build up. If you want to clean without going to the extreme of empting the pond then use a rake and pull the debris and scoop it out, but be gentle so you don’t stir up the pond to badly.
The easiest way to keep the algae down maybe to increase the scavengers in the pond and regular skimming of the pond to remove leaves etc. Snails, mussels and tadpoles all remove the wastes created by plants and fish inhibiting the growth of algae. A good rule of thumb is one scavenger per square foot of surface.
Fountains:
A trickling fountain is a serene addition to any backyard, until white or green discoloration gets your blood pressure up.
Scale, the white mineral deposits caused by hard water, and algae are the main issues when it comes to fountains. Sticking to a cleaning routine will help prevent either from taking hold.
Technique:
Both scale and algae build up over time. The more you prevent their buildup, the easier it will be clean your fountain. To prevent algae, use a commercial algae treatment, available at water-garden and fountain suppliers. Typically applied a few drops at a time once a month or so, these inhibit algae growth without the use of chlorine or other harsh chemicals. You can buy a similar commercial treatment for inhibiting scale,. It works the same way to keep scale from forming on your fountain, fountainhead, and filters. You use 2 to 4 ounces for each 10 gallons of water. If you want to not use the commercial products, clean your fountain as needed, usually once a week. For scale and algae, vinegar is one of the best cleaning agents you can use. Empty the fountain and, using a one-to-one solution of vinegar and water, scrub the surfaces with a nylon brush. The vinegar will neutralize alkaline mineral deposits, plus it has good cleaning qualities. Rinse well by spraying the fountain with the garden hose.
Clean the pump and filter weekly as well. Remove the filter and spray it with the garden hose. If not, algae, especially the filament shaped kind, can clog it. Wipe down the exterior of the pump with a wet cloth.
If the pump has mineral deposits, wipe it down with the vinegar solution and rinse with clean water. If you need to scrape algae or mineral deposits out of the intake valve, use the bottle brush supplied with your pump kit, or use a wooden stick, like a Popsicle stick. Metal can scratch the surface.
Caution: To avoid the risk of shock, always unplug your pump before cleaning it.
With our active lifestyles and the amount of time we spend in our cars, the average car interior is easy prey for a myriad of stains and odors. Stain and odor removal is almost a science into itself. Upholstery fabrics and carpets widely vary, as do the composition of stains. However, in my experience, there is a correct method and a suitable cleaner for most car interior problems.
Protection is Worth a Pound of Cure
Common upholstery fabrics are more likely to stain than vinyl or leather. To best prevent stains altogether, it is necessary to properly treat upholstery, carpet, vinyl and leather. The best treatment for carpet and fabric is a spray on fabric guard product. The Scotch Guard„brand products are the best know, and most widely available. Other products, like 303 Hi Tech Fabric Guard, offer newer fabric protection formulas. To protect vinyl and leather, simply use your favorite cleaner and protectant on a regular basis. Some leather protectant products, like Eagle One Leather Conditioner, contain mink oil, which is excellent for protecting against stains.
When the inevitable happens, and your three-year-old drops (or barfs!) his mustard-loaded hotdog on your brand new velour upholstery, stay calm, and remove as much of the spill as possible (by blotting, not wiping, with paper napkins, paper towels, etc). Then, don’t let the stain sit too long before you get to work on it. Within a day or two, most spills will set and permanently stain your upholstery or become very difficult to remove. It will only take one such incident for you to realize that a $15 investment in fabric and carpet protection is worth every penny.
Stain Removal Basics
Even without protection, you would be amazed at how easy it is to clean up most stains with nothing more than a neutral detergent and water. A neutral detergent has a pH of 7 (on a scale of 0 to 14). A detergent with a pH less than 7 means it is acidic, whereas a pH higher than 7 is alkaline. Neutral detergents will not bleach fabric or remove fabric protection.
When cleaning a stain, try detergent and water first. If this does not remove the stain, then go for a cleaner with a little more oomph!
Common cleaning agents for interior stains include:
Neutral detergent (Ivory Liquid) & water (1:20)
Mild ammonia & water solution (1:5)
Distilled white vinegar & water (1:1)
Dry-cleaning fluid (Carbona, Renuzit, Perk)
Tools you’ll need to remove interior stains include:
Spatula or putty knife
Clean, white terry cloth towels
Soft bristle scrub brush
Wet-dry vacuum
Some stains, no matter what you try, will be permanent. If an indelible stain has penetrated the fibers of a material, they will not come out. You might be able to make the stain less noticeable, but no cleaner or method will remove all of the stain. You will have to live with it or have the section of carpet or upholstery replaced. In some cases, leather and vinyl stains can be fixed by color matching the area with a leather or vinyl repair system (a job for a professional).
Removing Odors
I get a lot of questions about removing smells. The most common questions are How do I remove the smell of cigarette smoke? and My child vomited, how do I get rid of the smell? Most bad smells in cars are organic (i.e., food, urine, vomit, tobacco, grass, mold, mildew, etc.). I recently had a professional detailer tell me a client had spilled fish in his car, which I know from experience is not pleasant. As a teen I hid an open can of sardines under the seat of a neighbor’s car. They had to sell the car to get rid of the smell!
Smell problems are pretty easy to take care of with some of the new cleaners on the market. My favorite is called Kids & Pets Brand Stain & Odor Remover, by Paramount Chemical Specialties (www.kidsnpetsbrand.com). This cleaner, and others like it, use enzymes, a surfactant, and denatured alcohol to remove stains and kill odors. The enzymes kill odors in their tracks by stopping the organic material from decomposing. So, spray this stuff where your girlfriend just heaved her guts all over the front seat, and the mess and stain are gone. Don’t use it, and you’ll be smelling that night for a long time. Other products that also work okay for dealing with organic smells and stains include Febreze (Proter & Gamble) and FreshCare (Clorox).
Tobacco smoke is one of the most difficult smells to remove from a car. The smoke permeates everything, including the foam rubber used in seat cushions. You can successfully remove most of the tobacco smell by shampooing the carpets and upholstery with Kids & Pets Brand Stain & Odor Remover, and wiping down all other surfaces with a sponge and Kids & Pets Brand Stain & Odor Remover. After the carpet has dried for 24 hours, sprinkle baking soda on the carpet, rub it in with your hands, and leave it for a week. After a week, vacuum your carpets. The baking soda will absorb the remaining odor in the carpet. Don’t forget to scrub the headliner, as this is the source of a lot of the smell.
by David W. Bynon Copyright (c), 2000, Autopia Car Care — All Rights Reserved
There are dozens of types of flooring material found in homes. Many specialized materials have very specific care instructions from the manufacturer, which should be followed as closely as possible. Woven flooring tiles, commercial grade marmoleum, terrazzo, or finished concrete are occasionally found in homes, although because they usually require professional care, we will not go into detail with these types of floors. The other more common surfaces we will detail are wood (real and synthetic), carpet, vinyl, ceramic tile, and unfinished concrete.
Regardless of the type of floor, the two commonalities are that clean floors look better, and clean floors last longer. For example, imagine a particle of dirt in a carpet. As the particle is stepped on, and ground in, it will rub against the carpet fibers. This abrasion will eventually damage the fiber beyond repair, which will effect the overall appearance of the carpet. The same holds true with wood, tiles, vinyl, and even unfinished concrete. Make it last by keeping it clean.
Wood:
Hardwood floors are protected by a sealer, which penetrates the wood pores, and a coating of polyurethane, shellac, or varnish. Some of these finishes on newer floors are applied in a factory, others are finished after being installed, and others still, are protected by only by wax. As with all floors, vacuum or sweep frequently to keep dirt from being ground into the floor’s finish. Clean spills or mud immediately using an absorbent cloth. Avoid apply too much water to any floor, the surface may be water resistant, however if the substrate is damaged so will the floor itself.. Dry them off with a clean towel to remove excess moisturel.
Do not wax a urethane finish. The wax prevents future recoating, which is how you renew a dulled finish without stripping, sanding, and refinishing the floor. Likewise, choose cleaning products carefully. Use a cleaner recommended by the manufacturer of your floor or your floor’s finish. If you don’t know the type of finish or its manufacturer, use a general cleaner, like Woodwise Floor cleaner, available at wood flooring distributors, or most Home Centers. For wax finishes apply the same logic and use a wax recommended by the manufacturer.
Never use a water-based cleaner. It can stain the wood white. To remove white water spots on a wax finish wood floor, rub gently and in a circular motion with an extra-fine (#000) steel wool and a small amount of mineral spirits. Always follow the chemical manufacturers safety precautions, and be sure to work in a well ventilated area.
Synthetic wood floors, look like wood, but it is just a printed picture of wood glued to a particle board backing. The finishes on these styles of flooring are VERY durable. The don’t scratch, and will keep there appearance for many years.
Usually a quick sweep or vacuum will clean them, although mopping will be required occasionally to remove spills or stains. When mopping the floor, use a mild detergent and, being sure not to use too much water, go over the entire floor. If excessive moisture leaks between the planks, it can badly damage the backing. Then using plain water, rinse off the floor to avoid leaving a detergent film.
Carpets
Carpets act as filters for an entire house. All of the dust particles in the air eventually settle into the carpet, where they are vacuumed up and removed from the home. Carpets should be vacuumed weekly to maintain their efficiency in collecting dust, and it doesn’t hurt appearance wise either. High traffic areas or entrance areas from outside or a dirty garage might require more frequent cleaning.
Choose a good quality vacuum, and select a unit with a beater bar (or power head) and a HEPA grade filter if you or any members of your family have bad allergies to dust. Keep your vacuum cleaner itself clean and in good working order. An excellent choice for a vacuum is a built in canister style. These are great because they remove the dust completely away from the main living area.
For spot cleaning check out our Do’s and Don’ts of carpet cleaning. Always be sure to blot the stained area, and check for special instructions for removing different types of stains.
Do not overwet wall-to-wall carpeting – excessive wetting can cause the fabric backing to shrink. Sometimes this shrinkage can even cause tears in the carpet. For many non oil-based stains on water-treatable cotton and wool rugs, a good solution to begin with is ¼ teaspoon clear dishwashing liquid and 1 cup warm water.
Dirt is a lot easier to get out than mud. That means if your kids track mud over your Oriental runner in the hallway, let it dry first. Then lift up as much as you can with a dull knife or the handle of a spoon and vacuum the rest. If there is still a residual effect, like a slight shading where the mud was, use the above detergent solution.
Deep clean your rug every 12 to 18 months, either by hiring a professional or doing it yourself. If you use a wet method, like shampooing, remove the furniture from the room beforehand. Or, to prevent rust or other stains from leaking into the rug, place plastic food wrap under and around the legs of chairs and tables. Follow all instructions carefully. Never exceed the recommended solution strength. When you are finished, remove all shampoos, detergents and moisture, which cause dirt to stick to the rug.
Follow the instructions on the product label for proper use and safety precautions. Oriental rugs, which are the most fragile of all area rugs, can be vacuumed safely – and should be as often as other carpets to keep them in peak condition. Vacuum as usual, except when approaching the fringe. With an upright cleaner, tip up the front of the cleaner slightly and push it completely off the carpet. This cleans the fringe without catching it in the agitator. With a canister use a floor brush or upholstery attachment for the fringe. Send antique area carpets out to a professional for implant cleaning.
Linoleum and Vinyl
Linoleum floors were once very common but until very recently were little used in residential flooring. Lately more linoleum is being laid due to its environmentally friendly nature. A pressed type floor traditionally made from natural ingredients, linoleum is very tough. Newer linoleum floors have a tight surface, which is very water, and stain resistant. However, as it ages and wears down it becomes very porous. This, in turn, creates the need for finish to protect the floor.
We recommend sealing a linoleum floor even when it is new so any wear occurs with the finish and not on the floor. Once a linoleum floor becomes porous it is almost impossible to finish it properly. The porous surface will absorb almost any liquid put on it. Also it is very important not to use any alkaline products on linoleum. These will yellow the floor. Use mild detergent to clean and a very light coat of finish to seal. Stripping should be avoided. To prepare the floor for new finish scrub it with a brush and detergent. Rinse with clean water and let dry completely before applying finish.
Vinyl flooring, typically called a no wax, or a no maintenance floor, they appear commonly in kitchens and bathrooms. These large sheets have a variety of patterns and colors, and are factory finished with a tough polyurethane type finish. These floors are very inexpensive, and are simply glued down.
Usually a quick sweep or vacuum will clean them, although mopping will be required occasionally to remove spills or stains. When mopping the floor, use a mild detergent and, being sure not to use too much water, go over the entire floor. Then using plain water, rinse off the floor to avoid leaving a detergent film.
Although called called no maintenance, these floors can loose their luster over time. This can be restored with an acrylic floor polish, that is applied in a very thin coat. Check your local home center or janitorial supplier. These floors are soft, and easily damaged, especially in the kitchen where we all tend to drop pots and knives. Expect to replace these floors every 7 to 10 years under regular use.
Ceramic Tile
Ceramic is very resilient, and while it is very tough a sharp blow can crack or damage the tile.
Usually a quick sweep or vacuum will clean them, although mopping will be required occasionally to remove spills or stains. When mopping the floor, use a mild detergent and, being sure not to use too much water, go over the entire floor. Then using plain water, rinse off the floor to avoid leaving a detergent film.
These floors can be scrubbed with a machine, cleaned with chemical stripper, and maintained with wax. Some finishes are durable enough to not require any waxing, and in fact wax is likely unnecessary in most residential applications.
Unfinished concrete
The unfinished basement and the garage both are considered dust or dirty. This doesn’t have to be the case. Concrete collects dust like other surfaces, but how often do we vacuum our garages? Treat them like other floors, sweep or vacuum and give them a good mopping once a month. It does wonders for the space visually, and will help keep your house cleaner. There are a number of superior concrete finishes, both clear sealers and paint or epoxy finishes. These are excellent for providing an easy to clean surface, and most are simple roll on applications.
Sweep floor. Apply cat litter to spills of oil, antifreeze, etc to absorb substance. Use a heavy duty degreaser and damp mop garage floor to remove salt.
