From time to time your leash may get heavily soiled. If your leash is nylon just place it in your wash. Wash with plently of clothes to protect your washer or tie a towel around the clasp. Just hang to dry.
If your leash is leather use a lether cleaner or wet a cleaning towel with a mild soap and water and gently wipe the surface. Be sure wipe off any excess water.
What is the easiest way to clean dried, caked-on dog poopout from between the grooves of my Nike shoes?
Here is a question near and dear to my heart 🙂 since I have a dog and a backyard I have direct experience with this problem. What I do is use a pointy tool like a nut pryer(used to get the small pieces of broken nuts out of nut shells) or a small screwdriver. It gets in the groves well and will with a little patience get most of it. I also clap the shoes together (outside) as I am working and the poop works free. For a final cleanup I get up early and walk my dog across a grassy field and the morning dew does the rest. Oh the things we do for our pets! I hope that helps and good luck.
I installed a hand-held shower head because washing my white terriers in the tub can be back-breaking work. They don’t seem to mind the water as much and you can really rinse their legs and bellies well.
How do I clean pet vomit from fine fabric and furniture?
Pets are great for companionship, but they aren’t so good about cleaning up after themselves….
The first thing to do is remove as much of the vomit as possible. A spatula and paper towels work great for the big chunky stuff, however it is the liquid portion that does most of the staining and smelling. The solutions for both surfaces are similar, however the furniture has the added dimension of cleaning the cushioning, or padding, which has soaked up this offensive liquid.
Depending on the type of fabric, there are different care guidelines. An excellent resource is www.fabriclink.com. The best general advice is to pick up an active enzyme (often marketed as enzyme based) detergent or additive. The enzymes will actually digest the proteins contained in the vomit. Allow the mixed enzyme to soak into the stain for at least one hour before laundering as normal following the regular care instructions for the fabric.
The furniture will require the same attention, however, since your sofa won’t fit in the washing machine, you will need to rent an upholstery extraction machine, which is just a carpet cleaner with an upholstery attachment. Once the surface residue has been removed, apply the enzyme mixture, and allow it to soak. The powerful suction from the extractor is needed to remove the vomit residue, the enzyme solution, and the rinse water from the padding. Using too much chemical, or leaving excessive rinse water in the area being cleaned, can result in mildew forming inside the cushion, so thorough extraction and proper drying is a must!
Good quality chemicals, specifically enzyme based detergents, can be found at commercial janitorial supply stores while an extractor can be rented at almost any large grocery store. Given the expense of renting the equipment, and the cost of chemicals, it is often a better value to hire a professional for the job. A reputable company will have much more powerful equipment, and so long as you alert them to the specific problem (vomit), they will be able to provide the proper chemicals for the job.
Here is a tip contributed by Jonathan from Tulsa, OK.
Carpet Creepers:
Tired of having your dog’s long hair entangled mercilessly in your carpets and rugs?
Well heres a way to end that problem for good.
If you have a hard kitchen floor, simply get a baby gate and confine your lovable little demons to the kitchen.
This will keep shedded coats within easy cleaning distance, and the dogs probably won’t even notice the decrease in freedom.
After I partitioned my house with a baby gate, the house became considerably more clean and dust free.
Here is a great tip on birdcage cleaning submitted by Judith
We own several birds and this tip is what i tell friends. As close to the kitchen trash can as possible, spread several layers of newspapers on the floor covering at least one foot more than the size of the bottom of the cage.
Remove all toys, water dishes and food dishes and soak in hot soapy water. Although it is preferable to move the bird to another cage while doing this it is not inappropriate to leave it in the cage. Move the cage to the newspapers on the floor and remove the slide bottom of the cage and everything will fall right on the papers.
Wash the tray and return it in the slot and then put the tray protectors (we use wood chips) in. Return the clean toys and wash and return the food dish and water dish with fresh water and food. Return cage to where it belongs and just roll up the papers with all the crud on it and put it in the rubbish. End of clean up.
Here is a great tip on birdcage cleaning submitted by Judith
We own several birds and this tip is what i tell friends. As close to the kitchen trash can as possible, spread several layers of newspapers on the floor covering at least one foot more than the size of the bottom of the cage.
Remove all toys, water dishes and food dishes and soak in hot soapy water. Although it is preferable to move the bird to another cage while doing this it is not inappropriate to leave it in the cage. Move the cage to the newspapers on the floor and remove the slide bottom of the cage and everything will fall right on the papers.
Wash the tray and return it in the slot and then put the tray protectors (we use wood chips) in. Return the clean toys and wash and return the food dish and water dish with fresh water and food. Return cage to where it belongs and just roll up the papers with all the crud on it and put it in the rubbish. End of clean up.
Here is a great tip on birdcage cleaning submitted by JudithWe own several birds and this tip is what i tell friends. As close to the kitchen trash can as possible, spread several layers of newspapers on the floor covering at least one foot more than the size of the bottom of the cage.Remove all toys, water dishes and food dishes and soak in hot soapy water. Although it is preferable to move the bird to another cage while doing this it is not inappropriate to leave it in the cage. Move the cage to the newspapers on the floor and remove the slide bottom of the cage and everything will fall right on the papers.Wash the tray and return it in the slot and then put the tray protectors (we use wood chips) in. Return the clean toys and wash and return the food dish and water dish with fresh water and food. Return cage to where it belongs and just roll up the papers with all the crud on it and put it in the rubbish. End of clean up.
General Info:
A cage that is difficult to clean is an unsafe cage. When cages are hard to clean, people tend to procrastinate. Cleaning is postponed until the cages are filthy. This increases the likelihood of bacterial and fungal contamination — not to mention it is ugly and messy.
Technique:
Any feces or food should be wiped off of the grates, bars and apron daily. Stubborn dried-on organic material can be sprayed with hot water from a plant mister, allowed to soak for a few minutes and then will wipe off easily. These areas may be wiped down with a mild disinfectant and rinsed off. However, this must be done daily or it will be come more difficult with each passing day and soon a major clean up and strong disinfectants become necessary.
Papers used to line the bottom of the cage should be picked up every day.
The best time to clean the cage is just before the bird is put to bed, so that the cage stays clean as long as possible.
Dust cage surfaces weekly and do a thorough cleaning once every three months.
These cleaning methods apply when the bird is healthy. If a sick bird is involved then a much more aggressive cleaning and disinfecting regime must be implemented.
Cages should have aprons to help contain any mess inside the cage. Stainless steel cages or cages with powder coat finish are the easiest to clean. A large sheet of Plexiglas (very reasonably priced) can be attached to the wall near the cage. It is attractive and easy to clean.
Precautions:
Cages with horizontal bars are difficult to clean. They are nice for clumsy baby birds. Yet, if the bar spacing is correct it is not necessary to have horizontal bars on the cage of a healthy adult bird.
Thoroughly wash a sprig of fresh parsley then tie the wet sprig to the inside bars of your budgies cage. He will roll against it, peck it and clean himself!
I quickly learned that the best results come from being prepared. Gather the shampoo, conditioning rinse (optional), and towels at the bath site. A deep sink or a tub will work best, as anything too shallow will encourage escapees! Prepare a draft-free drying areaperhaps the floor of a ferret-proofed bathroom with a pile of absorbent towels or blankets that your fuzzy friend can burrow through. Clean his ears and trim his nails first, if needed, since those can be messy tasks. And finally, encourage the ferret to visit the litter box before heading to the bath.
When running your ferret’s bath, make sure the water feels quite warm to you but is not scalding. Remember that your ferret’s normal body temperature is higher than yours; you want her to be comfortable.
Oh no, not shampoo! But into every ferret life a little soap must come. Select either a shampoo made specifically for ferrets or a kitten-safe tearless shampoo. If your ferret seems comfortable standing on the non-slip mat, put a hand under her belly to support her spine while washing. Otherwise, drape her along your arm to support her body, letting her legs dangle on either side. Work the shampoo into her fur by rubbing against the direction of growth to get through that dense undercoat.
Use a washcloth to safely scrub the ferret’s cheeks; the glands there secrete sebum, which may discolor the fur, and hormones in the sebum leave an odor. And don’t forget the tail!
The bathwater may cool quickly, so try rinsing your ferret under running water to ensure warmth and a faster, easier rinse. Using a conditioning rinse may result in silkier-feeling fur for a while. Again, working the rinse into the dense fur is the key to a good result. Once she realizes the bath is over, your ferret will try to fly out of your arms like a damp rocket, so be quick with a towel for a brisk rub! Then let her loose in the drying area and sit back for a laugh. Expect a bottlebrush tail, chattered complaints, war dancing, frantic shaking, and a general blur of fur as your girl indignantly bounces off of everything in sight!
Precautions:
And here’s the most important tip: Don’t overbathe your ferret! For most ferrets, once every 3 months or when getting into a mess demands it is plenty. More frequent bathing may actually result in a stinky, itchy ferret. Washing strips the oils from fur and skin, causing the body to work overtime to replace them. Since the oils are what contain the light musky odor of a normal ferret, the smell may become stronger within a couple of days of bathing, then fade again. Better to be scrupulous about clean litter boxes and weekly changes of cloth bedding to keep your ferret fresh!