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Washing Winter Clothes:Wool sweater,gloves wool,Mens wool Jacket,Womens Jackets

Most people have clothing for summer and winter, except for those lucky individuals that live in tropical climates, where a wool sweater is a term for individuals that perspire too much and a parka is a place to leave your car.

Then there are those poor souls from England, and Vancouver (myself included)

Where we too, only have one season. It is called “Wet”, but for everyone else, there is good reason to store your unneeded clothing during the off season.

Wool sweaters & wool jackets are some of the most prone to being damaged by moths, mildew and mold. Wash and dry very thoroughly before storing, and never store in a plastic bag, or air proof container. The best storage container is likely a rattan trunk, which permits free circulation of air through the clothing. Here are some tips for other types of materials:

Fur coats : If garment is small, store at home in a cold dry place. Cover with cloth or washed muslin. Otherwise, use professional cold storage.

Leather and suede: Store in a cool, well-ventilated closet. Cover with cloth or washed muslin. For soft leather, pad with white tissue paper and fold flat.

Linen Fabrics: Roll if possible. If you must refold periodically to avoid creases. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Metallics: Roll with white tissue paper or washed muslin to separate each layer. if you must fold, place white tissue paper between each layer and refold periodically to avoid creases. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Quilts: Fold and store flat. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Rayon fabrics: Store flat. if you must hang garment, pad it well with white tissue paper. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Silk fabrics: For sheer or knitted silks, store flat. If you must hang garment, pad it well with white tissue paper. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Velvet: Pad with white tissue paper and hang on a padded hanger, supporting skirt area from loops attached at waist. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Wool: Clean thoroughly, pad with paper, fold, then wrap in white tissue paper. Add mothballs to storage area. Fighting Mildew:

Ventilate storage areas when the weather is dry and cool. Pack storage areas loosely so that air can circulate around clothes. Don’t use starch or fabric finish on items to be stored.

When storing clothes, use a chemical desiccant such as silica gel or calcium chloride, but don’t let it touch garments. Place Para dichlorobenzene mothballs or crystals inside closets and drawers; they prevent mildew and absorb moisture.

To reduce dampness in closets, wrap some chalk together and hang them up.

To protect garments from snags, and possibly acid damage from wood, line your dresser drawers with quilted fabric or good quality shelf paper that is ungummed. (Gummed paper attracts insects and is hard to remove.

For sweet-smelling clothes, put unwrapped bars of scented soap, empty perfume bottles, or fabric softener sheets into drawers.

Consider professional cold storage if you have any of the following:

Furs or fur-trimmed clothes; a climate that is very hot or humid; inadequate storage space; chronic problems with carpet beetles, silverfish, moths, or mildew.

Before you put clothes in storage, make sure they’ve been cleaned thoroughly; insects are attracted by dirt, especially from perspiration, food, and beverages. Storage areas should be clean, dry, free of insects and away from light, which can fade some colors (especially blues and greens) and promote hatching of insect eggs.

To wrap folded garment and to line dresser drawers, use white tissue paper or washed muslin; at least once a year, replace the tissue paper and wash the muslin.

Store clothing in places that have moderate temperature or humidity; avoid extremes, such as a hot attic or a damp basement. Because garments made of natural fibers (cotton, wool, silk, and linen) need to breathe, store them in a well-ventilated area in containers with ventilation holes.

When you take your clothes out of storage, put them in the dryer for about 10 minutes on the air-only cycle (no heat). This will help get rid of wrinkles.

Mothballs and crystals won’t kill those moth eggs that are already present in clothing when it’s stored. Clean clothing thoroughly before you put it away.

Because mothballs and crystals emit a vapor which is heavier than air, suspend them in containers above clothing. Keep them away from children and pets (they are poisonous if eaten). Old stockings or socks make good bags for mothballs.

If you’re using moth crystals, sprinkle them on the adhesive side of masking tape and hang them up.

To dispel mothball odor, add a pomander or an herbal potpourri to the storage area. Either suspend it or pack it in a small sack. A very simple herbal is five or six bay leaves strung together.

To protect sorted clothing from moths, a cedar chest must be made of cedar heartwood at least 3/4 inch thick. It should also have felt gaskets to make it airtight. Although cedar will kill newly, hatched or young worms, it won’t kill eggs, half-grown worms, the pupae or chrysalises, or moths.

Handbags and Purses

To maintain the shape of your leather bags, stuff them with tissue or plastic bags. Then, to keep them from sticking together when you store them, place each in a flannel bag or a pillowcase.

To brighten a patent-leather bag, spray on a little glass cleaner, then wipe with a paper towel.

Keep the metal trim on your bag from tarnishing – apply a coat of clean nail polish over it.

Every now and then, it’s a good idea to clean and condition your leather purses. Wipe them them with a damp cloth and mild soap, or apply a colorless leather conditioner with a dry cloth.

How to clean Bed mattresses,Futon mattresses & box springs

Bed mattresses

Would you crawl into bed with a bunch of bugs? No? Well you do. Every single night. They are called dust mites, and they are everywhere. They thrive on dead skin, your dead skin. Yum. Yum. If you aren’t completely disgusted by now, check out our article on Dust Mites, to find out why they contribute to allergy problems.

In addition to these dust mites, their feces, and all that dead skin they are waiting to munch on, your bed also collects dust, lint, hairs, and other assorted debris that is floating around our homes.

Regular cleaning of your bed mattress, and the bed sheets keeps these potential allergens in check. It also will increase the life span of your sleeping habitat.

The bed mattress should be flipped over a couple times per year. It is a great idea to co-ordinate it with changing your clocks to and from day light savings time, or on Independence Day and New Years Eve, if you don’t have much of a life outside your home.

The first time flip it over side for side, and the next time flip it over end for end (A note left between the mattress can remind you which way it is suppose to be flipped). This equalizes the wear of the mattress, and minimizes peaks and valleys. It is also a good plan on “flipping day” to vacuum the entire bed mattress and box spring. If you use a plastic mattress cover, wipe it down after vacuuming with a disinfectant.

Plastic covers are a must for young children who might have a periodic bed wetting accident. If you don’t have a cover when one of these accidents happens, check out the tip in our data base on cleaning urine from a mattress.

Futon mattresses

Although thought to be owned only by starving college students, there are those of us who have grown to love our futons. Like mattresses there are dozens of different firmness levels, and methods of construction depending on the manufacturer.

Typically there is a foam core, wrapped with cotton, in a heavy cotton fabric envelope. When cleaning, you should avoid getting a futon too wet, as it takes forever, or possibly longer, to dry completely. A moist futon is a bad thing, as warm, moist, dark areas tend to grown things (like fungus and mildew) that we don’t normally want to sleep with. Stains should be removed with as little water as possible, and usually blotting with a damp rag will remove most surface stains.

Futons should be rolled up every couple of months, and allowed to stay rolled up tight for an entire day, if possible. Turning them frequently will also lengthen their useful life significantly.

Sweet dreams

School clothes washing Tips

School clothes

Summer  over and the days of endless summer fun for the kids will be replaced by “where is my FUBU sweat shirt” and “who stole my Tommy fubu Jeans“. Since we are not going to get away with “I didn’t care if I had designer clothes when I was a kid” or “no one on Survivor Island wore designer clothes“. These days with clothes costing a weeks wages and a wardrobe costing a years overtime pay, here as some basics to be sure they last as long as possible or at least until the next style comes along.

1. Have three baskets or bags for sorting whites, darks and medium colors.

2. Wash heavily soiled or work clothing separately.

3. Wash similar fabrics together jeans sweat shirts, etc. and loose knits separate.

4. Wash all new clothes with dark colors separately for at least the first few times.

5. Wash lint-producing clothes together and don’t wash clothes that are damaged (rips & tears etc.). Repair them first to avoid fraying.

6. Always check and double check pockets, take the extra few minutes you will thank me if you find that errant ballpoint pen as opposed to spending 3 hours cleaning all the ink from the dryer. (I know of a “friend” who had to do this recently).

7. Have a stain pre-treatment spray or stick handy to treat stains as you are sorting. Use a bar of non-scented soap in a pinch if you have nothing else.

8. Consider using a laundry booster which will give you that extra punch just in case you miss treating any stains before washing.

9. If you can inspect your laundry as you transfer it into the dryer. Giving larger pieces a shake when transferring them will help them dry faster and more evening than an article that is all balled up on itself.

10. Hang the designer clothes up as soon as possible this will help prevent all the moaning and groaning when your little cherub gets up late and complains the jean are wrinkled. “Hey I am not going to iron your jeans no matter what you say, jeans were invented for miners and I don’t think they got their Mommy’s to iron their jeans before going out and looking for gold nuggets all day.”

Christmas Tree Sap:How to Remove Tree Sap from your Hands and clothes

Tree Sap Removal

At Christmas time invariably someone gets sap on his or her hands and or clothes.

Some say that you can use milk to remove tree  sap from your hands.

Or you can remove the sap with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol acts as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap. Wash up after using the solvent on skin.

Here are some tips for removal from clothes:

Saturate the area with a pretreatment stain remover. Wait several minutes for the product to penetrate. Rub the stain with a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder immediately.

Rub with detergent paste and launder as usual.

For extra heavy stains lay the stain face down on folded absorbent paper towels and apply dry cleaning fluid to the back of the stain. Let dry, rinse, and proceed as above.

Bathroom Cleaners

General Information :
Bathroom cleaners range from mild to extremely strong. A mild general purpose detergent is more than needed when cleaning is frequent. Specific problems require special formulations.
Soap-scum: a heavy build-up of soap-scum will need a more concentrated cleaner. A degreasing product will remove soap-scum and body oils quite effectively. Allow contact time for the product to emulsify the scum and remove it from the surface.
Mold and mildew: a disinfectant type product is needed to kill the micro-organisms and allow for removal. Bleach will certainly work but can be harsh for both user and surface. Other products will have a germicidal ingredient to kill mildew  along with detergent, scent, foaming and/or thickening agents  to cling to verticle surfaces. They will vary in effectiveness, especially on grout, which is difficult to clean even with commercial grade cleaners. Regardless, disinfection is only temporary, germs will immediately start growing again. The key is to clean frequently before mildew accumulates too much.
Mineral deposits: best prevented than removed afterward. An acid based product is most effective on mineral stains although a lot of scrubbing is usually required. Rust, calcium and lime removing products are expensive but generally perform well.
Avoid abrasive liquid and powder cleaners on acrylic tubs and showers, which scratch easily – as will metal faucets and taps.
Never mix bleach with ammonia or acid cleaners  dangerous fumes can result.
Recommendation:
Most bathroom cleaners will do an adequate job on soap-scum and prevent mildew and mineral deposits from forming. Frequent cleaning is the key. For more difficult stains use a product designed for the purpose. Actual scrubbing to clean is almost unavoidable where bathrooms are concerned.
Environmentally Friendly Solution :
Simply wipe down surfaces with water and a clean cloth as often as possible to prevent build-up.

General Information :

Bathroom cleaners range from mild to extremely strong. A mild general purpose detergent is more than needed when cleaning is frequent. Specific problems require special formulations.

Soap-scum: a heavy build-up of soap-scum will need a more concentrated cleaner. A degreasing product will remove soap-scum and body oils quite effectively. Allow contact time for the product to emulsify the scum and remove it from the surface.

Mold and mildew: a disinfectant type product is needed to kill the micro-organisms and allow for removal. Bleach will certainly work but can be harsh for both user and surface. Other products will have a germicidal ingredient to kill mildew along with detergent, scent, foaming and/or thickening agents  to cling to verticle surfaces. They will vary in effectiveness, especially on grout, which is difficult to clean even with commercial grade cleaners. Regardless, disinfection is only temporary, germs will immediately start growing again. The key is to clean frequently before mildew accumulates too much.

Mineral deposits: best prevented than removed afterward. An acid based product is most effective on mineral stains although a lot of scrubbing is usually required. Rust, calcium and lime removing products are expensive but generally perform well.

Avoid abrasive liquid and powder cleaners on acrylic tubs and showers, which scratch easily  as will metal faucets and taps.

Never mix bleach with ammonia or acid cleaners dangerous fumes can result.

Recommendation:

Most bathroom cleaners will do an adequate job on soap-scum and prevent mildew and mineral deposits from forming. Frequent cleaning is the key. For more difficult stains use a product designed for the purpose. Actual scrubbing to clean is almost unavoidable where bathrooms are concerned.

Environmentally Friendly Solution :

Simply wipe down surfaces with water and a clean cloth as often as possible to prevent build-up.

General Information :Bathroom cleaners range from mild to extremely strong. A mild general purpose detergent is more than needed when cleaning is frequent. Specific problems require special formulations.Soap-scum: a heavy build-up of soap-scum will need a more concentrated cleaner. A degreasing product will remove soap-scum and body oils quite effectively. Allow contact time for the product to emulsify the scum and remove it from the surface.Mold and mildew: a disinfectant type product is needed to kill the micro-organisms and allow for removal. Bleach will certainly work but can be harsh for both user and surface. Other products will have a germicidal ingredient to kill mildew along with detergent, scent, foaming and/or thickening agents to cling to verticle surfaces. They will vary in effectiveness, especially on grout, which is difficult to clean even with commercial grade cleaners. Regardless, disinfection is only temporary, germs will immediately start growing again. The key is to clean frequently before mildew accumulates too much.Mineral deposits: best prevented than removed afterward. An acid based product is most effective on mineral stains although a lot of scrubbing is usually required. Rust, calcium and lime removing products are expensive but generally perform well.Avoid abrasive liquid and powder cleaners on acrylic tubs and showers, which scratch easily  as will metal faucets and taps.Never mix bleach with ammonia or acid cleaners dangerous fumes can result.Recommendation:Most bathroom cleaners will do an adequate job on soap-scum and prevent mildew and mineral deposits from forming. Frequent cleaning is the key. For more difficult stains use a product designed for the purpose. Actual scrubbing to clean is almost unavoidable where bathrooms are concerned.Environmentally Friendly Solution :Simply wipe down surfaces with water and a clean cloth as often as possible to prevent build-up.

Blood Stains From A Mattress

General Info:
Blood stains can be tricky….ask O.J..
Blood is primarily a protein, which once dried is tough to get out, especially on something that you can’t toss in a washing machine or allow to soak for a few hours. Be sure to check the helpful hints for the Do’s and Don’ts of stain removal and Six Sure Ways to Set Stains.
Tools & Chemicals:
Dish washing or fine fabric detergent, white terry towels, white vinegar, warm water, measuring cup, and Hydrogen Peroxide.
Technique:
*
Work on removing the stain as soon as you notice it. The longer the stain is left on the mattress the greater the chances are of the stain setting.
*
In every case remove all excess wet or dry material before attempting to clean. Blot wet materials using a white terry towel (check helpful hints for a detailed description of blotting). First try reliquifying dried blood by applying Hydrogen Peroxide, when it begins to bubble blot up. If this does not remove the stain, try the following:
*
Seek out a local janitorial supply store and purchase an enzyme based cleaner. (these are most frequently used in some carpet spotting cleaners for food stains, feces, etc)
Start this process early in the morning, or when you will be out of town for a night, as the mattress will get wet, and it MUST be dried before replacing bed sheets.
Mix the enzyme according to the manufacturers directions in warm water, dampen an old or dark bath towel in the solution. Wring it out so it is not overly wet and place it over the stain. Allow this to sit on the stain for at least half an hour, if not longer. Remove this towel, and blot the surface of the mattress to absorb as much moisture as possible. You may need to repeat this process a few times, and you may also need to provide some agitation (a soft scrub brush) to loosen the stain.
Even with all this work there will likely be a variation in the appearance of the mattress once it has dried, but the dark stain should be lightened considerably. You should permit the mattress to dry as long as possible before using again. Even a fan or placing in the sunshine (sun will also help lighten the stain) is great! Do NOT use a hair dryer or space heater as they will set the stain forever.
If a brownish spot remains when dry, mix 1 part white vinegar and two parts water. Apply a small amount and blot. Repeat only once.
If all else fails, you can always flip over the mattress!

General Info:

Blood stains can be tricky….ask O.J..

Blood is primarily a protein, which once dried is tough to get out, especially on something that you can’t toss in a washing machine or allow to soak for a few hours. Be sure to check the helpful hints for the Do’s and Don’ts of stain removal and Six Sure Ways to Set Stains.

Tools & Chemicals:

Dish washing or fine fabric detergent, white terry towels, white vinegar, warm water, measuring cup, and Hydrogen Peroxide.

Technique:

Work on removing the stain as soon as you notice it. The longer the stain is left on the mattress the greater the chances are of the stain setting.

In every case remove all excess wet or dry material before attempting to clean. Blot wet materials using a white terry towel (check helpful hints for a detailed description of blotting). First try reliquifying dried blood by applying Hydrogen Peroxide, when it begins to bubble blot up. If this does not remove the stain, try the following:

Seek out a local janitorial supply store and purchase an enzyme based cleaner. (these are most frequently used in some carpet spotting cleaners for food stains, feces, etc)

Start this process early in the morning, or when you will be out of town for a night, as the mattress will get wet, and it MUST be dried before replacing bed sheets.

Mix the enzyme according to the manufacturers directions in warm water, dampen an old or dark bath towel in the solution. Wring it out so it is not overly wet and place it over the stain. Allow this to sit on the stain for at least half an hour, if not longer. Remove this towel, and blot the surface of the mattress to absorb as much moisture as possible. You may need to repeat this process a few times, and you may also need to provide some agitation (a soft scrub brush) to loosen the stain.

Even with all this work there will likely be a variation in the appearance of the mattress once it has dried, but the dark stain should be lightened considerably. You should permit the mattress to dry as long as possible before using again. Even a fan or placing in the sunshine (sun will also help lighten the stain) is great! Do NOT use a hair dryer or space heater as they will set the stain forever.

If a brownish spot remains when dry, mix 1 part white vinegar and two parts water. Apply a small amount and blot. Repeat only once.

If all else fails, you can always flip over the mattress!

General Info:Blood stains can be tricky….ask O.J..Blood is primarily a protein, which once dried is tough to get out, especially on something that you can’t toss in a washing machine or allow to soak for a few hours. Be sure to check the helpful hints for the Do’s and Don’ts of stain removal and Six Sure Ways to Set Stains.Tools & Chemicals:Dish washing or fine fabric detergent, white terry towels, white vinegar, warm water, measuring cup, and Hydrogen Peroxide.Technique:*Work on removing the stain as soon as you notice it. The longer the stain is left on the mattress the greater the chances are of the stain setting.*In every case remove all excess wet or dry material before attempting to clean. Blot wet materials using a white terry towel (check helpful hints for a detailed description of blotting). First try reliquifying dried blood by applying Hydrogen Peroxide, when it begins to bubble blot up. If this does not remove the stain, try the following:*Seek out a local janitorial supply store and purchase an enzyme based cleaner. (these are most frequently used in some carpet spotting cleaners for food stains, feces, etc)Start this process early in the morning, or when you will be out of town for a night, as the mattress will get wet, and it MUST be dried before replacing bed sheets.Mix the enzyme according to the manufacturers directions in warm water, dampen an old or dark bath towel in the solution. Wring it out so it is not overly wet and place it over the stain. Allow this to sit on the stain for at least half an hour, if not longer. Remove this towel, and blot the surface of the mattress to absorb as much moisture as possible. You may need to repeat this process a few times, and you may also need to provide some agitation (a soft scrub brush) to loosen the stain.Even with all this work there will likely be a variation in the appearance of the mattress once it has dried, but the dark stain should be lightened considerably. You should permit the mattress to dry as long as possible before using again. Even a fan or placing in the sunshine (sun will also help lighten the stain) is great! Do NOT use a hair dryer or space heater as they will set the stain forever.If a brownish spot remains when dry, mix 1 part white vinegar and two parts water. Apply a small amount and blot. Repeat only once.If all else fails, you can always flip over the mattress!

Car Leather

General Information:
Automotive leather can be treated like other fine leather furniture. There are a number of excellent leather cleaners and protectants commercially available. Remember that leather is a skin. Any extremes can contribute to deterioration. Avoid extreme heat and cold, excessive water and dryness.

Tools & Technique:
To clean interior automotive leather wipe spills with a damp cloth. Apply protectant regularly to keep leather moist and supple. An occasional wipe with a damp rag will help in removing surface residue, which over time can leave a soiled appearance.

There is also more cleaners on the market, they are colon cleansers.

Cat Grooming

General Info:
A clean, shiny coat is a sign of good health and nutrition, and by grooming your cat you can help encourage growth and shine. Cats are naturally clean animals so your cat may need little grooming.
Long haired cats need to be groomed regularly, as much as once a day. A good idea is to get the cat used to grooming when it is a kitten. If you can get your cat or kitten used to being groomed then regular grooming of the cat can be something you both enjoy. If the cat or kitten is nervous spend some time playing with it until it is comfortable with you touching it. Let it play with the comb or brush before attempting to groom it.

Technique:

  • Groom all the dead hair out of the coat using a comb or soft bristle brush. Be very gentle when combing the head.
  • Groom down the body, the tail, and the legs. Once groomed thoroughly go over the coat with the brush to remove all loose hairs.
  • With long haired cats and kittens the fur can become matted. The matted hair will need to be removed before attempting to groom. If the matting is severe it may be necessary to have your cat sedated and then clipped. Always seek expert advice if this problem occurs.
  • If the cat is dirty, a clean damp cloth may be used to wipe the cat down. Wet the cloth with warm water only. Bathing may be nessesary when there is a flea infestation.
  • When you are grooming your cat, you will have a good opportunity to check its skin for any lumps, rashes, discharges or other signs that your cat is not well. If you find any problems seek advice from your vet.

Cat Odors

General Info:

Have you ever had a guest visit your home and say, “Oh, you have a cat, don’t you?” If so, you may not be diligent enough in cleaning your cat’s box. If you clean the cat box with gusto, you might need some additional ammunition: a cat box deodorizer.

Technique:

    • There’s really no secret to how add-in cat box deodorizers work. They mask odor, absorb the ammonia that causes odor or do both. Some odor-control products make mighty promises that they don’t deliver on, so ask pet store staff for advice. Other than that, trial and error may be your best bet. An easy and economical solution may be as close as your refrigerator the open box of baking soda you might store in your fridge keep the contents smelling fresh. A box of baking soda can be placed in the area near your cat’s box (put it where your cats can’t knock it over), or sprinkle about a quarter cup into the litter and mix it in.
    • Add only the recommended amount of deodorizer to your cat’s litter, follow all label instructions and never apply any product directly onto your cat.
    • However, the best way to reduce cat box odor is to thoroughly wash your cat’s box on a regular basis, change the litter as your nose deems necessary and scoop out waste daily. With diligent cat box maintenance and a little help from a deodorizer, your guests will never know you’ve got a feline sharing your homeunless you want them to.

By Ellyce Rothrock

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