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Cleaning Perspectives

Cleaning things is a terrible waste of time. Everything just gets dirty again, so what is the point? It is the definition of fruitless, universally true, and ultimately a colossal waste of time and energy. At the end of our lives, no one will ever say “Gosh, what a shame, and they were always so clean.”, or “My, it was so sudden but her house was always so tidy” In fact more people will likely be wondering how long before we turn to ashes or dust, cause that’s the last thing anyone needs is another pile of dust.

An uncle of mine was (and is) a farmer. He has never washed his truck. Ever. It must be an antique, and although the rain has kept some of the blue paint visible, for the most part it is a rolling mud covered chunk of rust. I believe the cohesiveness of the grime is holding it together. In any case his axiom was that if God put it there, he could take it away too. His reasoning was great, although he wasn’t completely consistent himself, as each winter he does plow the snow. I liked his thinking, so I adopted it, which was great until my boss asked me to tidy the public washrooms, and as an articulate, albeit lazy 16 year old, I asked why bother cleaning it, if it was just going to get dirty again. Towards the end of a rather lengthy lecture, he brought up showering, and asked if that’s how I felt about personal hygiene. Needless to say I quickly shut up and proceeded to scrub the toilets.

I have learned that there are tricks to having people think you are a clean freak, without dedicating your life to cleanliness. The most important things to remember are extra bedrooms, crawl spaces and the garage don’t count in cleanliness tests. They are like the FREE spot on a bingo card. Simply toss all of your junk into one of these FREE zones, and make the rest of your house look less cluttered, and cleaner. Be sure you can still close the door though, as falling debris can pose a hazard, which brings up our next tip. Closets. They are as good as gold, and what are the chances someone will look? Life is like Vegas, always play the odds.

My aunt used to have elaborate turkey dinners, which we often attended. She had obviously cooked all day judging from the number of courses, but when we sat down to eat dinner, the kitchen counters were clear. No pots or pans or mixing bowls. Just the beautifully presented platters and a spotless counter. My Mom once asked how she managed to clean everything up before the meal, to which see replied “don’t look in the oven”. She is a professional cheater. What a scam! Had my Mom not asked, to this day she would be revered as a miracle cleaner.

We all have the basic instinct to cheat. When going out on a date, it is a known fact that men will remove all of their junk from their cars, and toss it in their apartments. Meanwhile the female dates take all of the junk from their apartments and toss it into their cars, in anticipation of their boy friends arrival. This continues through the courting process and ultimately sets up everyone for a huge disappointment when they start living together. No wonder there are so many divorces.

Don’t get me wrong, I do believe in personal hygiene, and some semblance of order, however watching a sunset, reading a book, or playing catch with the kids, in my opinion, is a far better investment than vacuuming, scrubbing the shower, or doing laundry. At least I hope that is what they say about me when it is my turn to become dust on your mantle.

by Ken Pukanich

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Laundry Tips

Keeping Clothing looking new
I recently spent a small fortune on clothing for my two school age children and was wondering if there are any tips for keeping these clothes looking new.
Ahhhh! The mixed emotions of fall. A breath of relief as our kids walk out the door for school, and a tremor of fear when we add up how much their attire cost. Given the expense of new clothing, especially brand name articles, it is prudent to keep everything looking new for as long as possible.
Check the pockets. A pen, a piece of gum, or tube of lipstick can easily damage hundreds of dollars worth of clothing in the washer or dryer. If anyone has learned this lesson the hard way, they will tell you that this is the single most important part of doing laundry.
Always sort machine washable clothing into whites, darks and mixed colours.
Pretreat any stains with a stain spray or stick. In a pinch, even a bar of unscented soap can be rubbed on the stains. Always check for and repair any damaged or torn clothing before washing. It will only become more frayed or damaged in the wash.
Some clothing dyes are not colourfast, and they tend to bleed worse in hot water. Colours will usually become permanent after a wash or two, and heat drying will help accelerate this process. For deeply coloured items, and for all jeans, turn them inside out when laundering.
The pieces of clothing inside the washing machine and dryer rub against one another, damaging the surface of the fabric. This is an excellent argument to not overload your machines. New (to North America) front loading washing machines, in addition to using less power and water, also do not agitate clothing as aggressively, which results in less wear and longer useable life spans.
White fabrics contain optical brighteners, which degrade with bleach, sunlight, and age. Ironically, bleach and sunlight can actually help restore some brightness to your whites. Drying clothing in the sun will frequently lighten stains, and can help remove yellowing. While the occasional use of bleach is also helpful, frequent use will soon damage the fibers, resulting in holes and premature aging. Given all of these factors, the most common cause of poor results with whites, is simply using either too much or too little detergent. Oh, and there is also that new small red sock hidden in a white shirt that makes the whole load pink.
When laundering mixed colors always wash in cold water with similar garments. Check and understand the care labels on all of your clothing. With mixed fabrics this is even more important, as there may even be special care instructions for washing and drying!
When transferring clothes from the washer to the dryer, shake out each item, and at the same time check for stains. By shaking out the clothing, it will help prevent wrinkled messes when items ball up on themselves, and by removing and air drying stained items, it will give you a second chance at removing the stain before it is permanently heat set by the dryer.
Clothing should not be over dried. It wastes energy, and will also prematurely age the fabric. Instead of ironing clothes, try removing them from the dryer while they are still slightly damp. Give them a couple sharp shakes, and air dry them on rust proof hangers. You can’t stop your kids from growing out of their clothing, but with a little common sense, you can be sure that this is the main reason an item has to be retired.

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Household Cleaning Checklist

I am looking for a cleaning list that my I can use for my cleaning girl to use. She always forgets to clean things. I would like a list that has a check off, so when it is completed she can check it off, or I can check off what I want cleaned. I need it for every room in the house.
Patti S.
Here is what we came up with:
DAILY

Kitchen
O Empty trash and recycling, remove compost material
O Wash and dry dishes or fill dishwasher (Start only with full load)
O Wipe down interior of microwave
O Wipe table (chair or highchair if there are children), countertops,
backsplash, and stove top with dish cloth and warm soapy water.
Dry with a clean dry dish towel.
O Clean coffeemaker thoroughly after each use and clean the sink.
O Use steel wool on stainless steel sink, nylon pads on ceramic or acrylic sinks.
O Sweep or vacuum floor and damp mop any spills

Washrooms
O Wipe fixtures, and polish chrome
O Straighten towels, check Toilet Paper, Kleenex
O Buff mirror with one squirt of window cleaner and a dry cotton cleaning rag
O Vacuum or sweep

Throughout the Home
O Replace clothing, toys, books, games, and other items where they belong
O Straighten living spaces and bedrooms
O Make beds
O Sweep or vacuum entrance mats
O Clean ashes from fireplace into compost

WEEKLY

Kitchen
O Thoroughly clean stove top and front, drip pans, knobs and back splash
O Organize fridge, wipe spills. Throw out old foods.
O Wipe refrigerator sides and top, make fresh ice
O Clean items on counter. Clean under and behind them
O Wipe cabinet doors and sides, woodwork, doors and smudges off walls
O Remove platter from microwave and wash, scrub interior walls thoroughly
O Sweep and damp mop entire floor
O Treat wooden butcher blocks, and butcher block counters with mineral oil

Washrooms
O Scrub bathtubs and sinks
O Wash mirror like normal, then buff with one squirt of windex and a dry cloth
O Clean and disinfect toilets and shower stalls
O Put tooth brushes, holder, soap holder, cups, etc through
dishwasher to sanitize (use no soap, and choose sani or high temp dry)
O Wipe tile with soap scum cleaner, polish tiles with a clean cotton rag.
O Wipe down walls, shower doors and woodwork.
O Mop or wash floor with disinfectant detergent

Throughout the Home
O Vacuum and/or mop all floors
O Dust, including books, pictures, lamp bases, fans, and shades
O Wipe smudges off walls and doors.
O Wipe woodwork, polish door handles and other hardware
O Empty wastepaper baskets, recycling bins
O Change bed linens
O Clean telephones, computer and T.V. screens, video game controllers

WHEN NEEDED

Kitchen
O Wash inside of refrigerator and freezer
O Thouroughly clean cabinet and drawer fronts
O Defrost freezer (if not an automatic defrost) when the frost is ¼ inch thick
O Wash overhead hood filters
O Clean oven or run self clean cycle. Remove racks during self clean cycle.
O Dust high walls, ceiling, blinds, and shades
O Wash curtains, windows, and screens
O Clean light fixtures (wash in soapy water, rinse well)

Washrooms
O Wash rugs, toilet seat covers, and shower curtains
O Wash windows, blinds, shades or curtains
O Replace toilet cleaning pucks, if used
O Wash ceilings, especially above shower
O De-scale toilets using acid to remove hard water marks
O Clean medicine cabinet and organize linen closets

Throughout the Home
O Dust ceiling onto the floor before vacuuming
O Vacuum curtains, draperies, and radiators
O Wash windows, walls, and woodwork
O Clean light fixtures (wash in soapy water, rinse well)
O Move and vacuum and/or mop beneath furniture
O Polish decorative woodwork
O Wax or polish furniture
O Extract (steam clean) rugs, carpets, and upholstery
O Wax floors and refinish hardwood
O Turn over mattresses, and then end for end. Vacuum mattresses and
box springs; launder mattress pads
O Straighten closets and sort clothing into seasonal wardrobes
O Clean garage, basement and attic

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Built in vacuum

Built in vacuums are great. They have many advantages over tradition vacuums, in that they are more powerful, require emptying less often, deliver dust AWAY from the main living areas, and the hose is light and easy to use on stairs and in tight corners.
There are some dis-advantages too. Because they need emptied less often, they often don’t get emptied at all! And because they are more powerful, some people try to suck up everything from pine cones to toys to small family pets. And that long hose? All it takes is an errant piece of stalk from a wisk broom to start clogging everything up. These problems often create another big disadvantage, which is when the vacuum does get blocked up, there is often no easy way to clean out the system.
The first task is to determine if the blockage is in the main vacuum cannister itself, in the PVC piping, or in the hose or attachment. The first thing to check is the main vacuum cannister, usually located in the basement, garage, or utility room. Is the bag full? Empty it to be sure and get the maximum suction. Is the vaccum portion of the unit sealed tight? Are there evident blocks in the PVC pipe that lead into the cannister?
Try turning the vacuum on with the manual switch at the cannister, and then open the closest hose receptacle to the main unit. If there is strong suction, try plugging in the attachment hose. If there is no suction on the hose, then the hose itself is where your blockage can be found.
Usually, by plugging in the hose, and going down the length of the hose, bending and jiggling it, one will dislodge the debris that is caught. Be sure the hose is plugged in, and the vacuum is on, so the debris will be sucked out as you dislodge it. If this does not work, get a broom handle (or similar thick piece of round wood) and insert it in one end of the hose. Pull the hose together over the stick, then pull it off the other end. Continue doing this to push the stick through the hose.
If your hose is clear and the blockage is not on the first hose receptacle, check each receptacle further away or on the levels above to try to detrmine where the blockage is. Once you determine where the block is, use a residential size plumbing snake or an electritions fish wire to poke the debris in the PVC piping. Turn on the vacuum unit using the manual ON/OFF switch on the unit – or plug the hose into another outlet to turn the vacuum on.. The suction of the vacuum will help pull away the debris as you poke the blockage. If this is not successful, and if you.have a crawl space, it will make access to most of your system very easy. You will find that the PVC pipe should NOT have been glued together, which usually makes for easy disassembly, however runs up interior walls to higher floors will still be inaccesible.
If the blockage is not in the PVC piping, the hose, or in the cannister unit, you will need to contact the manufacturer or distributor to have a technician check out your system.

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Baseball Gloves

Now that summer is over many of you will be putting away your baseball & softball gloves until “spring training” next spring. Here is some advice on how to keep that glove in top shape and ready for next season Many types of treatments and care have been suggested over the years for baseball and softball gloves.
Some of these are safe and some, unfortunately, may damage glove leather. We recommended that one of the best and safest leather cleaners and conditioners is untreated petroleum jelly. Professional glove repairmen and leather specialists agree that this is one of the best applications, both for cleaning and conditioning glove leather.
During the break-in period, treat your new glove with a light application, working it into the leather. This will reduce the stiffness of the new leather and facilitate a faster and more comfortable breaking in procedure. Also, at the end of the season, take a generous amount of petroleum jelly and thoroughly cover the outside and inside of the glove.
Don’t ignore the laces or hard to-get-to areas, both inside and outside the glove. Then take a clean rag and wipe off excess to remove grit and grime. This will also remove and help neutralize much of the salt and acid buildup inside the glove caused by perspiration, a chief problem to the leather lining, usually made of softer leather. We do not recommend neatsfoot oil, linseed oil or silicon-type spray as these tend to close the pores of the leather, causing it to dry, harden, and become heavy over an extended period of time and through repeated use. Petroleum jelly keeps the pores open and in effect, keeps the leather “alive” while also providing a softening condition.
Basically remember that leather is skin and leather experts tell us not to treat glove leather any differently than you would your own skin. Prolonged harsh temperatures, excessive water soaking (especially use of hot water), abrasives, the salt and acids produced from perspiration and excessive dryness all or individually can be harmful to the glove leather.
Also, continued exposure to sunlight may result in fading of the leather color. Be careful about sealing gloves in plastic bags for over 12 months. We hope this gives all you players a good idea on how to care for your glove until the next time you hear those words so near and dear to our hearts – PLAY BALL!!

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Airstream Polished Aluminum Trailer

This article is in response to a question from one of our visitors. She asked:
I have an Airstream camper and I would like to know what is the best for cleaning and polishing exterior Aluminium.

Aluminum is great. It oxidizes which actually protects the metal beneath, unlike iron based metals which will rust all the way through until there is nothing left.
There are companies that actually refinish these trailers, but it can cost over $100 per foot!! (Including the bumper in the measurement)
So your 25 foot trailer will cost $2500 to restore! Yikes! No wonder you asked us! You can probably do it yourself, but expect to spend the first few weeks of your vacation, and a couple hundred dollars in supplies to get similar results.
The first thing you need to determine, is if your trailer has a clear coating on the aluminum. This would have been applied after, as it was not included in the factory finish. The clear coating is good and bad. It is good because it protects the aluminum, to keep the “new” look for three or four years, until the clear coat itself begins to haze and dull. Then it becomes bad, because there is no way to polish the aluminum that is covered with this clear coat of paint, and there is no easy way to remove the paint, either. If you find your trailer is clear coated, you will need to source out a professional company to help you.
How do you know if it is coated? Buy a metal polish from your local automotive detailer. It is usually sold in small tins for refinishing aluminum wheels. Using a clean, dry rag, rub a little onto the surface of your trailer in an inconspicuous spot. Continue rubbing, and if there is no clear coat, the rag will begin to turn black. Continuing buffing with a fresh clean dry area of the cloth, this surface will polish to a brilliant shine. If it is clear coated, the clear coat may look cleaner, however the rag will not turn black.
So now you have a six inch circle polished on your trailer. Look at how big your trailer is. Do you have the gumption to attack this your self?
You can make it a bit easier on yourself, buy buying a good quality orbital auto polisher. Not one that goes in your 12 Volt automotive outlet, but a powerful 120 Volt unit. A more aggresive polishing wheel for a drill or angle grinder will speed up work, but these can also cause damage to the metal if you are not careful.
The first step is to wash the trailer thoroughly, and rinse it off very well. With the polisher you will need several different application and buffing bonnets. You can probably easily attack a 3 foot square section at a time, applying the polish with the first bonnet, and continuing to change the bonnet when they become soiled. I expect it would take at least half a dozen bonnets for each section, and likely an hour or so to complete one 3 X 3 (9 square foot) section. The bonnets can be laundered, however the heavily soiled ones may not clean very well.
Once you have polished the whole trailer, I would apply at least 2 coats of quality automotive paste wax, buffing after each coat, to minimize the damage from the elements. If your trailer is not as badly oxidized as the one in the photo, you might be able to get away with a less abrasive liquid metal polish (which is often marketed as a stainless steel polish). Check with a janitorial supplier. The liquid will be creamy or blue, and in a spray bottle (NOT an aerosol can). DO NOT use a greasy clear petroleum liquid found in aerosol spray cans (and marketed as stainless steel cleaner) it WILL NOT WORK!!!
If you do undertake this big job, we hope you will also find time to go camping this summer!
Good luck!

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How to Clean Resin Patio Furniture

How To Clean Resin Patio Furniture resin patio chair

Resin plastic chairs are popular as patio furniture because they are inexpensive, durable, easily stored and easy to clean. The original protective coating wears off over time, however, particularly if you leave the chairs sitting outside all the time in the sun, rain and snow. These chairs then tend to develop a chalky film that gets onto skin and clothing. With a little elbow grease, you can clean resin patio furniture and get the pieces looking great again.

Instructions for How to Clean Resin Patio Furniture

Things You’ll Need:

  • Garden hose
  • Water
  • General purpose cleaner (like fantasik)
  • Clean cloth
  • Soft-bristle brush
  • Bucket
  • Bleach
  • Plastic spray bottle
  • Rubber gloves
  • Sponge

General Purpose cleaner

Step 1

Hose off loose dirt and dust from the chair.

Step 2

Spray a generous amount of general purpose cleaner onto the chair. Allow it to soak on the chair for five minutes.  Agitate with a soft bristle brush.

Step 3

Then hose the chair off again and allow it to dry in the sunshine.  Or buff dry with dry cleaning cloths.

Now you can enjoy your patio furniture again!

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Resin Chairs

Bleach Solution

Step 1

Use a bleach solution if chairs are covered with mildew. Add three-fourths cup bleach to a gallon of warm water.

Step 2

Apply a little to the underside of the chair to make sure it does not cause discoloration. This is unlikely but may occur on chairs with bright or dark colors.

Step 3

Pour the bleach solution into a plastic spray bottle. Apply a generous amount to the chair. You also can wear rubber gloves and apply it with a sponge or clean cloth. Let the solution sit on the chair for five minutes.

Step 4

Wipe an area of the chair where you found chalky stuff. See if the bleach solution removed it. If not, try scrubbing the chalky areas with a soft-bristle scrub brush as you did with the general purpose cleaner.

Step 5

Rinse the bleach solution from the chair with the hose and let dry in the sun.

Tips & Warnings

Don’t use a coarse bristle brush or any metal-based scrubbing pads, as this may scratch the resin.

I have also heard of people who use car wax to try and restore a better finish to a resin chair that is all chalky due to the finish being worn off.  Or paint the chair, but frankly resin chairs are so cheap you may be better off just buying new ones.

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Ink stains

Had an email asking for tips to remove ink stains from a dryer if the stains are fresh you have a better chance of removal.  Heat will set the stains. Try a nail polish remover, apply directly to a white cleaning cloth and wipe. Never pour or spray directly on to the surface. Be cautious about using a solvent in general, especially if the dryer is hot or you have a gas dryer. WD-40 is another option as well, which will need to be wiped with warm soapy dish detergent and water since it has an oily residue.

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Mustard

Mustard

With the summer holidays upon us we have an increase in stains and dirt especially with young kids around, or in the absence of young kids there is always alcohol to add to the extra work in the cleaning department.

Mustard is a very tough stain and requires specific and immediate action for best results. The quick tip is to rinse or blot with cold water as soon as possible.

For washable fabric pre-soak in cold water after removing as much the mustard before soaking. Then you can pre-treat the stain with ¼ teaspoon of dish soap and 1 cup of water, apply directly to fabric. Then wash in the hottest temperature safe for the fabric. If the stain doesn’t come out completely, don’t dry the item. Just pre-treat like before and re-wash. Drying will likely just set the stain, and a second try will often remove more of the stain.

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