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Car Interiors

By David W. Bynon Copyright (c), 2000, Autopia Car Care — All Rights Reserved

With our active lifestyles and the amount of time we spend in our cars, the average car interior is easy prey for a myriad of stains and odors.  Stain and odor removal is almost a science into itself.  Upholstery fabrics and carpets widely vary, as do the composition of stains.  However, in my experience, there is a correct method and a suitable cleaner for most car interior problems.

Protection is Worth a Pound of Cure
Common upholstery fabrics are more likely to stain than vinyl or leather.  To best prevent stains altogether, it is necessary to properly treat upholstery, carpet, vinyl and leather.  The best treatment for carpet and fabric is a spray on fabric guard product.  The Scotch Guardâ„¢ brand products are the best know, and most widely available.  Other products, like 303 Hi Tech Fabric Guard, offer newer fabric protection formulas. To protect vinyl and leather, simply use your favorite cleaner and protectant on a regular basis.  Some leather protectant products, like Eagle One Leather Conditioner, contain mink oil, which is excellent for protecting against stains.

When the inevitable happens, and your three-year-old drops (or barfs!) his mustard-loaded hotdog on your brand new velour upholstery, stay calm, and remove as much of the spill as possible (by blotting, not wiping, with paper napkins, paper towels, etc).  Then, don’t let the stain sit too long before you get to work on it.  Within a day or two, most spills will set and permanently stain your upholstery or become very difficult to remove.  It will only take one such incident for you to realize that a  $15 investment in fabric and carpet protection is worth every penny.

Stain Removal Basics
Even without protection, you would be amazed at how easy it is to clean up most

stains with nothing more than a neutral detergent and water  A neutral detergent has a pH of 7 (on a scale of 0 to 14).
A detergent with a pH less than 7 means it is acidic, whereas a pH higher than 7 is alkaline.

Neutral detergents will not bleach fabric or remove fabric protection.

When cleaning a stain, try detergent and water first.  If this does not remove the stain, then go for a cleaner with a little more oomph!

Common cleaning agents for interior stains include:

Neutral detergent (Ivory Liquid) & water (1:20)
Mild ammonia & water solution (1:5)
Distilled white vinegar & water (1:1)
Dry-cleaning fluid (Carbona, Renuzit, Perk)
Tools you’ll need to remove interior stains include:

Spatula or putty knife
Clean, white terry cloth towels
Soft bristle scrub brush
Wet-dry vacuum
Some stains, no matter what you try, will be permanent.  If an indelible stain has penetrated the fibers of a material, they will not come out.  You might be able to make the stain less noticeable, but no cleaner or method will remove all of the stain.  You will have to live with it or have the section of carpet or upholstery replaced.  In some cases, leather and vinyl stains can be fixed by color matching the area with a leather or vinyl repair system (a job for a professional).

Removing Odors
I get a lot of questions about removing smells.  The most common questions are How do I remove the smell of cigarette smoke? and My child vomited, how do I get rid of the smell?  Most bad smells in cars are organic (i.e., food, urine, vomit, tobacco, grass, mold, mildew, etc.).  I recently had a professional detailer tell me a client had spilled fish in his car, which I know from experience is not pleasant.  As a teen I hid an open can of sardines under the seat of a neighbors car.  They had to sell the car to get rid of the smell!

Smell problems are pretty easy to take care of with some of the new cleaners on the market.  My favorite is called Kids & Pets Brand Stain & Odor Remover,by Paramount Chemical Specialties (www.kidsnpetsbrand.com).  This cleaner, and others like it, use enzymes, a surfactant, and denatured alcohol to remove stains and kill odors.  The enzymes kill odors in their tracks by stopping the organic material from decomposing.  So, spray this stuff where your girlfriend just heaved her guts all over the front seat, and the mess and stain are gone.  Don’t use it, and you’™ll be smelling that night for a long time. Other products that also work okay for dealing with organic smells and stains include Febreze (Proter & Gamble) and FreshCare (Clorox).

Tobacco smoke is one of the most difficult smells to remove from a car.  The smoke permeates everything, including the foam rubber used in seat cushions. You can successfully remove most of the tobacco smell by shampooing the carpets and upholstery with Kids & Pets Brand Stain & Odor Remover, and wiping down all other surfaces with a sponge and Kids & Pets Brand Stain & Odor Remover.  After the carpet has dried for 24 hours, sprinkle baking soda on the carpet, rub it in with your hands, and leave it for a week.  After a week, vacuum your carpets.  The baking soda will absorb the remaining odor in the carpet.  Don’t forget to scrub the headliner, as this is the source of a lot of the smell.

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Mattresses, Box Springs, and Futons

Would you crawl into bed with a bunch of bugs? No? Well you do. Every single night. They are called dust mites, and they are everywhere. They thrive on dead skin, your dead skin. Yum. Yum. If you aren’t completely disgusted by now, check out our article on Dust Mites, to find out why they contribute to allergy problems.
In addition to these dust mites, their feces, and all that dead skin they are waiting to munch on, your bed also collects dust, lint, hairs, and other assorted debris that is floating around our homes.

Regular cleaning of your mattress, and the bed linen keeps these potential allergens in check. It also will increase the life span of your sleeping habitat.
The mattress should be flipped over a couple times per year. It is a great idea to co-ordinate it with changing your clocks to and from day light savings time, or on Independence Day and New Years Eve, if you don’t have much of a life outside your home.

The first time flip it over side for side, and the next time flip it over end for end (A note left between the mattress can remind you which way it is suppose to be flipped). This equalizes the wear of the mattress, and minimizes peaks and valleys. It is also a good plan on “flipping day” to vacuum the entire mattress and box spring. If you use a plastic mattress cover, wipe it down after vacuuming with a disinfectant.
Plastic covers are a must for young children who might have a periodic bed wetting accident. If you don’t have a cover when one of these accidents happens, check out the tip in our data base on cleaning urine from a mattress.
Futons
Although thought to be owned only by starving college students, there are those of us who have grown to love our futons. Like mattresses there are dozens of different firmness levels, and methods of construction depending on the manufacturer.
Typically there is a foam core, wrapped with cotton, in a heavy cotton fabric envelope. When cleaning, you should avoid getting a futon too wet, as it takes forever, or possibly longer, to dry completely. A moist futon is a bad thing, as warm, moist, dark areas tend to grown things (like fungus and mildew) that we don’t normally want to sleep with. Stains should be removed with as little water as possible, and usually blotting with a damp rag will remove most surface stains.
Futons should be rolled up every couple of months, and allowed to stay rolled up tight for an entire day, if possible. Turning them frequently will also lengthen their useful life significantly.
Sweet dreams

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Storing Winter Clothes

Winter Clothes

Most people have clothing for summer and winter, except for those lucky individuals that live in tropical climates, where a sweater is a term for individuals that perspire too much and a parka is a place to leave your car.

Then there are those poor souls from England, and Vancouver (myself included) where we too, only have one season. It is called “Wet”, but for everyone else, there is good reason to store your unneeded clothing during the off season.

Wool sweaters and down jackets are some of the most prone to being damaged by moths, mildew and mold. Wash and dry very thoroughly before storing, and never store in a plastic bag, or air proof container. The best storage container is likely a rattan trunk, which permits free circulation of air through the clothing. Here are some tips for other types of materials:

Furs

If the garment is small, store at home in a cold dry place. Cover with cloth or washed muslin. Otherwise, use professional cold storage.

Leather and Suede

Store in a cool, well-ventilated closet. Cover with cloth or washed muslin. For soft leather, pad with white tissue paper and fold flat.

Linen

Roll if possible.  If you must,  re-fold periodically to avoid creases. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Metallic’s

Roll with white tissue paper or washed muslin to separate each layer.  If  you must fold, place white tissue paper between each layer and re-fold periodically to avoid creases. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Quilts

Fold and store flat. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Rayon

Store flat. if you must hang the garment, pad it well with white tissue paper. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Silk

For sheer or knitted silks, store flat. If you must hang the garment, pad it well with white tissue paper. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Velvet

Pad with white tissue paper and hang on a padded hanger, supporting skirt area from loops attached at waist. Cover with cloth or washed muslin.

Wool

Clean thoroughly, pad with paper, fold, then wrap in white tissue paper. Add mothballs to storage area.

Fighting Mildew:

Ventilate storage areas when the weather is dry and cool. Pack storage areas loosely so that air can circulate around clothes. Don’t use starch or fabric finish on items to be stored.

When storing clothes, use a chemical desiccant such as silica gel or calcium chloride, but don’t let it touch the garments. Place Para dichlorobenzene mothballs or crystals inside closets and drawers; they prevent mildew and absorb moisture.

To reduce dampness in closets, wrap some chalk together and hang them up.

To protect garments from snags, and possibly acid damage from wood, line your dresser drawers with quilted fabric or good quality shelf paper that is ungummed. (Gummed paper attracts insects and is hard to remove).

For sweet-smelling clothes, put unwrapped bars of scented soap, empty perfume bottles, or fabric softener sheets into drawers.

Consider professional cold storage if you have any of the following:

  • furs or fur-trimmed clothes
  • a climate that is very hot or humid;
  • inadequate storage space
  • chronic problems with carpet beetles, silverfish, moths, or mildew

Before you put clothes in storage, make sure they’ve been cleaned thoroughly; insects are attracted by dirt, especially from perspiration, food, and beverages.  Storage areas should be clean, dry, free of insects and away from light, which can fade some colors (especially blues and greens) and promote hatching of insect eggs.

To wrap folded garment and to line dresser drawers, use white tissue paper or washed muslin.  At least once a year, replace the tissue paper and wash the muslin.

Store clothing in places that have moderate temperature or humidity; avoid extremes, such as a hot attic or a damp basement.  Garments made of natural fibers (cotton, wool, silk, and linen) need to breathe, store them in a well-ventilated area in containers with ventilation holes.

When you take your clothes out of storage, put them in the dryer for about 10 minutes on the air-only cycle (no heat).  This will help get rid of wrinkles.

Mothballs and crystals won’t kill those moth eggs that are already present in clothing when it’s stored. Clean clothing thoroughly before you put it away.

Because mothballs and crystals emit a vapor which is heavier than air, suspend them in containers above clothing. Keep them away from children and pets (they are poisonous if eaten).  Old stockings or socks make good bags for mothballs.

If you’re using moth crystals, sprinkle them on the adhesive side of masking tape and hang them up.

To dispel mothball odor, add a pomander or an herbal potpourri to the storage area.  Either suspend it or pack it in a small sack. A very simple herbal is five or six bay leaves strung together.

To protect sorted clothing from moths, a cedar chest must be made of cedar heartwood at least 3/4 inch thick. It should also have felt gaskets to make it airtight. Although cedar will kill newly, hatched or young worms, it won’t kill eggs, half-grown worms, the pupae or chrysalises, or moths.

Handbags and Purses

To maintain the shape of your leather bags, stuff them with tissue or plastic bags.  Then, to keep them from sticking together when you store them, place each in a flannel bag or a pillowcase.

To brighten a patent-leather bag, spray on a little glass cleaner, then wipe with a paper towel.

Keep the metal trim on your bag from tarnishing – apply a coat of clean nail polish over it.

Every now and then, it’s a good idea to clean and condition your leather purses.  Wipe them them with a damp cloth and mild soap, or apply a colorless leather conditioner with a dry cloth.

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Outdoor Furniture

Aluminum

There are two types of aluminum furniture. Painted and not painted. The painted aluminum can be treated like any other painted metal surface. Clean it with a mild soap and water, rinse it to remove sticky soap residue, and protect it with an automotive paste wax.

Unfinished aluminum doesn’t rust, however it does oxidize. This type of corrosion actually protects the metal from the elements, however it is not nearly as brilliant as the piece looked originally. This can be rectified by using a metal polishing paste. This paste has very fine abrasives, which actually remove the oxidation. Once polished up, protect this surface with an automotive paste wax. Bad oxidation may cause pitting which looks like small specks, however the metal polish will not be able to remove deep pitting with a light polish. Alkaline cleaners will CAUSE oxidation, so avoid chemicals like ammonia (found in Windex), and TSP. If a piece is lightly oxidized (from pollution) try an acidic solution (1:1) of white vinegar and water.

Cushions

Wiped regularly, store out of the sun and rain, and keep away from the elements of winter. Cushions designed for exterior household use will last a very long time. These cushions are usually made with a water and mildew resistant fabric, however continued saturation in rain water, beneath feet of snow, or soaked in beer and little Johnny’s ketchup, will drastically shorten their useful lifespan.

Fill your tub, or a large rubber maid bin or garbage can with mild detergent and hot water. If the cushions are solid white add bleach for a 1:4 ratio, to help kill any mildew. Rinse thoroughly. For colored cushions, you cannot use bleach without damaging the color, so be certain to wash these more frequently.

Dry, in the sunshine for a couple of days. This will lighten stains and help kill any remaining mildew.

Hammocks

Hammocks are like big outdoor air filters. They collect dust, pollution, bird and bug excrement, mold spores, not to mention the beer and crumbs you add to the fabric. When you put up your hammock for the season, spray it with two light coats of a commercial water-repellent such as Scotchgard Heavy-Duty Water Repellent. This protectant will be removed after washing, so it is a good idea to re-apply after each washing and at the beginning of the season. It will protect the fabric from becoming saturated quickly with water, and it makes cleaning easier. This is not a replacement for taking down your hammock during heavy rains, but damage is much less likely to occur if you forget to take it down during a sudden rain shower.

To wash your hammock, lay it on a nonabrasive surface like a clean wooden deck, or on a clean nylon tarp. Hose it down thoroughly and scrub it using a soft brush and a solution of warm water and some liquid dish soap. Rinse the hammock off, and turn it over, and clean the other side. Again, rinse it thoroughly, and hang it in the sun to dry. If night falls before it dries, hang it in your garage or basement.  Any moisture in a fabric can cause damage, especially when it is cool and out of direct sunlight.

Hanging the hammock in the sunshine is also the only way to bleach it whiter. Never use chlorine bleach, as it will weaken the fibers, and they are the only thing between you relaxing in the breeze or falling onto the lawn.

Metal (Iron) Cast and Formed

Iron rusts. Remembering that will drive everything you do in keeping your furniture looking good. When you wash it, check for paint damage, and the tell tale rust. If you catch this damage early, it can prevent a great deal of subsequent damage. Sand the rust off, along with the damaged paint right down to bare metal, then prime, and paint with a rust resistant paint. When washing use a mild detergent, scrub the surface gently and rinse with a low pressure hose. Dirt, and dust on the surface will hold moisture against the paint, which will lead to premature failure of the coating. To keep your furniture in good condition, the first step is to keep it clean.

The second best advice is to apply two coats of automotive paste wax, which will help keep moisture away from the surface. This may be impractical with some detailed designs, so you can also try a spray on liquid wax. This wax is not as durable, however it will easily reach into tight corners and doesn’t need to be buffed as vigorously.

Patio Furniture

Most patio furniture is made of a resin plastic, which is very durable, and inexpensive. It’s one failing is that the finish, while being very smooth, is also slightly porous, which attracts and holds stains. It is wise to protect new furniture with an automotive paste wax, to repel water borne dust and make cleaning easier. This is made all the worse when you consider the most popular color is white, and this furniture is usually left outdoors for seasons, if not years at a time. Washing these chairs in the spring, and again in the fall before you store them, will help immensely, as does storing them in a shed or garage through the winter.

Spray down the furniture with a garden hose, and then scrub with a mild detergent and warm water, before rinsing the furniture off. There are some chemicals marketed specifically for this purpose, but nothing has come close to a product called Simple Wash made by Biowash (www.biowash.com). It can be found in many large Home Centers, and if your local store doesn’t carry this product, ASK them to. Just sponge it on, let it sit or give a quick scrub for heavily soiled furniture, then rinse it off. It is environmentally friendly, so it won’t kill your grass, either.

To help brighten white furniture, set it in the sunshine for the natural bleaching effect of the sun. You can even wax these chairs with automotive paste wax. This will make water bead off, and make washing them much easier.

Bleach can be used for cleaning, however it is not good for the environment, or your new blue jeans. When cleaning avoid solvents as they can eat away the plastic and make the furniture surface a sticky goo.

Sun Shade Patio Umbrellas

Clean your patio umbrella annually before putting it into storage for the season. Wash with a mild solution of dishwashing detergent and warm water, and then rinse thoroughly. Don’t leave this task until the day the snow begins to fall, as the umbrella should be left open in bright sunshine for a full day, to be certain it is dried completely. If there is ANY moisture in the umbrella, you can be almost certain to find mildew growing in the spring when you go to set it up again.

If your umbrella is made of vinyl, and it will not come clean with mild detergent, try an automotive convertible top cleaner.

Wood

There are dozen of types of wood such as cedar, pine, spruce, or mahogany, but the ultimate wood for outdoor furniture is Teak.  Teak is very expensive, but it contains a naturally occurring oil, that makes it especially resistant to wet environments. All wood furniture is best stored indoors through the winter, and should be cleaned once or twice a year. There are some excellent products that help lighten darkened wood, as well as oils, stains, and polyurethane coatings that can add a durable protective finish on wood furniture. When washing wood, use a mild detergent, and gently scrub and rinse with a low pressure garden hose.

Painted wood can be wiped down, but avoid high pressure sprays, as it may flake off the paint entirely. With care, even outside wood furniture can last for decades.

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Overview of Pool Opening Procedure:

A pool properly maintained during the winter months can be prepared for a new season of swimming with a minimum of effort.

Pump, hose, or sweep away water, dirt, or debris from the cover and deck.

Remove the cover and plugs from all openings. If the water was in good shape at the end of last season, proper cover removal will ensure that your pool opens relatively clear. If they were removed at the pool closing, raise the underwater lights from the bottom of the pool and install them in their niches

Turn on the electric power and start up the support system. Check for leaks and proper operation. If you find any problems, consult your owner’s manual or contact a local pool service company.

Have the heater professionally serviced before you use it.

Test and adjust the pH and total alkalinity.

Super chlorinate and adjust the PH & Alkalinity levels of the water.

Run the pump 24 hours a day at the beginning of the season when it may be difficult to get the pool water balanced. You can reduce the pump operating time in one-hour increments once you’ve got the water in shape.

Treat the water with an algaecide. After several hours of operation, test the chlorine level and adjust it as needed. If the chlorine level is high, do not use the pool until it drops to normal levels

Opening the Pool (General):

The reopening process begins the moment the pool is closed. By keeping an eye on the pool over the winter, the reopening process becomes that much easier. Snow or rain can raise the water level or sink the cover. Since heavy debris can fall in, it is better to remove it immediately than waiting till the spring.

Reopening the pool entails reversing the instructions for closing it. The following is a handy checklist:

Supplies

Take the supplies (chemicals) out of storage and replace those that have exceeded the expiration date.

Uncover

Remove the cover, and then clean it. Allow it to dry (to prevent mildew) before folding and storing it for the summer.

Equipment

Reinstall or reassemble the pump, filter, and other removed items.

Deck

Reinstall ladders, diving board, and other deck fittings. If used at closing time, most of the petroleum jelly used to coat exposed metal fittings will have weathered off. Use a dry terry cloth towel to wipe off the remainder if necessary.

Plumbing

Remove the plugs and replace return outlet fittings.

Refilling the Pool

Bring the water level up to normal.

Electrical

Restore circuit breakers, switches, and time clock trippers to normal operating positions.

Cleaning

Restart the circulation equipment and clean the pool.

Chemistry

Balance the water chemistry and check the levels frequently during the first few days (until they stabilize). Run the circulation system 24 hours straight for three days or until the water has cleared completely. Depending on how dirty the pool became over the winter, the filter must be backwashed frequently during this period.

Opening the Pool (Detailed):

1- Remove the leaves and debris from the pool cover with a leaf net and/or skimmer net. Pump off any excess rain water with a submersible pump. If an above ground pool, the excess water may be siphoned off instead.

2- Remove cover. Try to minimize the amount of water and/or debris that gets into the pool water. Some dirty water will always manage to get in – don’t worry about it. You will be adding shock to the water and filtering it soon, so a little dirty water will not hurt anyone !

3- Lay out pool cover and sweep or brush off any remaining debris. If you do not store your cover indoors, and you keep it outside or in a shed, then you do not have to worry about getting the cover particularly spotlessly clean. If you do keep it in the garage or basement, you may want to clean it to a greater extent. Properly fan-fold cover and store away.

4- Empty the water out of any water tubes you may have. On above ground pools, deflate the air pillow. Clean off items and fold properly and store away.

5- Unplug all piping, both in the pool and at the filter system area.

6- Re-attach any deck equipment you have such as ladders, rails, diving boards, etc. Make sure to reconnect any grounding wires or straps that may have been attached to the metal parts last year.

7- Lubricate all bolts on the dive board, ladders and/or rails. This will prevent them from rusting over the summer. Remember, you are probably the one who will be closing the pool, so you want the bolts to come off easy at closing time !

8- Re-install the skimmer baskets and any return jet eyeball fittings. If an above ground pool, you may have to re-attach the actual skimmer and return fittings onto the pool (depending on how the pool was closed). If an above ground pool, also hookup any hoses from the skimmer and return jets to the pump and filter.

9- Hook up pump, filter and any other additional equipment you might have (booster pumps, spa equipment, waterfall circulation pumps, heaters, etc.).

10- Turn on the power to the pool system. You may have to turn on the circuit breaker from the house. Start and check system. Check for leaks or drips. Make sure any grounding straps or wires are properly connected to the pump and any other components that need them. Make sure pump primes properly. Check for proper flow. Backwash the filter thoroughly. Add new DE if you have a DE filter. If some pieces of equipment do not appear to be operating properly, you might want to first check our INFO/TIPS page under the POOL TROUBLESHOOTING section. If you cannot repair the problem yourself, contact a local pool professional for assistance.

11- Shock the pool with any chlorine shock product. This is available in liquid or granular form. You want to add enough to raise the chlorine level of the pool to at least 3.0 ppm (darker yellow color in most liquid test kits). If you use granular shock, do not throw it directly into the pool ! You could bleach and stain the liner. It is best to mix the granular shock chlorine in a bucket and then add that mixture into the skimmer while the system is running.

12- If your pool is a “green swamp” when you open it, see the poolandspa.com TIPS/INFO section under HOW TO CLEAR A GREEN POOL for further information.

13- If your pool water is relatively clear, accurately test your water for chlorine, PH and Alkalinity levels. If available, also test for Stabilizer (cyanuric acid). Adjust these chemicals to the proper levels. Add a high quality algaecide to the water. See our TIPS/INFO section under EZ POOL WATER CHEMISTRY section for more information.

14- Let pool run for at least 24 hours. Vacuum any debris out of the bottom. Retest water. Do not go into pool until water is crystal clear and chlorine level is under 2.0 ppm (medium yellow color on most test kits). –

Uh oh … Houston, we have a problem

Sometimes things don’t go so smoothly after you open your pool. Here are some common problems and what actions you should take:

1- Obvious drips coming from filter tank, pump or visible pipes. Try tightening the fittings. If you cannot get leaks to stop, contact a local pool professional.

2- Sand in pool under or near the return jets. This may mean the pool has an underground pipe leak or, if you have a sand filter, it could mean that something in the sand filter is cracked. If you are loosing water as well, we suggest contacting a local pool professional. If you are not losing water, then take apart the sand filter and look for a cracked part.

3- DE in pool under or near the return jets. This means that there is something in the DE filter that is ripped or cracked. Take the filter apart and look for cracked part or ripped element.

4- DE filter isn’t putting out enough water pressure and/or isn’t effectively filtering the pool. You should backwash the filter immediately. Add new DE. If problem persists, filter may be in need of an “acid wash”. If you do not know how to do this, we suggest contacting a local pool professional.

5- Sand filter isn’t putting out enough water pressure and/or isn’t effectively filtering the pool. You should backwash the filter immediately. If problem persists, filter may be in need of a sand change. If you do not know how to do this, we suggest contacting a local pool professional.

6- You notice many air bubbles mixing with the water coming out of the return jets. Probably means that there is a suction line leak, usually under or by the skimmers. You could try digging down and see what you can see, but we suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this !

7- You notice settled or wet dirt. You see bricks or patio blocks around the skimmers or return jets settling or sinking into the ground. Probably means an underground pipe leak at that point. You could try digging down and see what you can see, but we suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this !

8- Pump makes a loud squealing noise, it heats up or is not running to its full capability. This indicates that the pump is in need of professional service. Either remove it and bring it to a pool store or pump shop for repair – or replace the pump.

9- You notice that your pool is losing water…

>>> If the pool water level goes down to the bottom of the skimmer and stops, this usually means that it is a suction line leak, most likely directly under the skimmer. We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this !

>>> If the pool water level goes down to the bottom of the return jets and then stops, this usually means that it is a return line leak, most likely directly by the wall jet return fitting – but it could be anywhere in the return line. We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this !

>>> If the pool water level goes down to the top, middle or bottom of the light unit, this usually means that the light is leaking. This is usually the fitting in the light niche where the metal or plastic conduit pipe is attached to the metal niche. We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this !

>>> If the water level goes down to any other level on the side walls and then stops, this usually means that the leak is in the liner on the pool side wall or possibly in the step unit gasket. Inspect the pool visually around the water level and check to see if you can see a hole. Check the area where the LADDER comes in contact with the liner. This is a very common leak point ! If you cannot clearly see a leak hole, we suggest contacting a local pool professional to locate & repair the leak.

>>> If the water level goes down past they side walls, then it usually means that the leak is in the pool floor. This is bad ! You do not want all the water to drain out of the pool. It is bad for the liner and very bad for the pool walls – you do not want the pool to fall in ! If you see that you are quickly losing all the water in your pool, put a hose in the pool, start to refill it and contact a local pool professional to locate & patch the hole.

Information compiled from articles found on Poolandspa.com (www.poolandspa.com)

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Skylights

The snow piles up on them, trees dump sap and leaves on them, mildew can grow on them, and we won’t even discuss what birds do to them.  Okay, we will…did you hear about the rich pigeon?  He just made a deposit on a BMW. Same thing for skylights, except that if you have to look up at “the deposit” during breakfast every morning, it isn’t all that funny.

You should clean your skylights once or twice a year to keep the grime from building up, and permanently damaging the surface, especially on Plexiglas skylights. The grime and dirt can cause minute scratches to Plexiglas skylights, which will leave them with a clouded appearance.  This can be expected for older skylights, as Plexiglas degrades over time, or even for new skylights in areas that have acidic rainfall.  One great, albeit unusual tip, for Plexiglas and regular glass, is to wax the skylight with an automotive paste wax after it has been cleaned thoroughly.  A couple coats of wax, will protect against environmental damage, and will make rainfall bead off…..so you can see those horrible grey clouds.

Try to clean the inside and exterior on the same day.  Start on the inside by moving any furniture from beneath the skylight opening and lay a plastic cloth on the ground to catch any spills. Skylights are rarely placed for cleaning convenience, so determine the safest way to access the opening. Is it over a tub? Above a staircase? On a vaulted ceiling?  The inside doesn’t get very dirty, unless the skylight is in a kitchen, above a shower or tub, or near a fireplace. Usually the worst problem is spider webs, followed by grease build-up, and plain old dust.

If the skylight is flat glass, use a squeegee on the end of a broom stick or extension pole.  See the Window section for specific instructions.  For ‘bubble’ style lights, use a regular glass cleaner. If the skylight can not be reached by hand, try spraying some window cleaner on a clean rag draped over a broom. Replace that rag with a fresh, dry rag, to wipe off any residue and prevent streaks.

KEEP THE PLASTIC DROP SHEET IN PLACE WHILE CLEANING THE EXTERIOR!

  • Bring up a bucket with dish soap and a sponge to the roof.  Don’t fill it with water until you are on the roof.
  • Take up your garden hose, and hose down the skylight.
  • Fill your bucket with water, and wash the skylight with the sponge.
  • Rinse thoroughly. If there is sap, bird, or bug excrement, use a citrus based cleaner. Be certain to test any chemical on a corner of the skylight to be certain it does not damage Plexiglas skylight lenses.

Safety:  It is advisable to have someone spot you when climbing the ladder. Always use caution on a wet roof or ladder. Never take undue risks, if in doubt, call a professional!

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Dirty walls??

Here are some quick tips for wall cleaning

This is the one thing where you do the opposite of what you normally would like to do when cleaning.  Normally you clean from the top down when cleaning most things.  Like dusting before vacuuming, or cleaning the lights and mirrors before cleaning the washroom counter.

When cleaning walls clean from the bottom to the top this prevents the drips and streaks on the dirty part of the wall which are harder to remove from dirty walls than freshly cleaned walls.  Use a cleaning solution bucket and a clean water rinse bucket.  What you use will depend on how dirty your wall is.  If you are cleaning before painting using a strong cleaner like TSP (found in any hardware store).  For less dirty walls use a general purpose cleaner mixed with water.

Invest in a professional wall mop from your location janitorial supply store, this will save time and back strain since it is a flat mop on the end of a broom stick.  This allows covering more space quickly and using greater force or elbow grease while cleaning.  In addition to not having to climb on ladders to reach the top.

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Quick Tips for washroom cleaning…

When cleaning I always work from the top down, I don’t want to use the same cleaning cloth that I used to wipe the toilet seat when wiping the top of the toilet tank.  The toilet tank is rarely more than a little dusty so I clean that first then wipe down the rest of the toilet.  Spray surfaces with your washroom cleaner and allow the chemical to sit for a while, then wipe clean with a dry cloth.  I leave the bowl cleaner in the bowl for several minutes as well, allowing the chemical to do its job disinfecting and sanitized your bowl.  I also rinse the bowl brush well so it does not become a breeding ground for bacteria when not in use.  The more wet your cloth is, the more dirty bacteria etc. is on it and will reduce the quality of your cleaning job.

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Back to School laundry tips to Keep Clothes looking new

Summer is almost over and the days of endless summer fun for the kids will be replaced by “where is my FUBU sweatshirt” and “who stole my Tommy Jeans”. Since we are not going to get away with “I didn’t care if I had designer clothes when I was a kid” or “no one on Survivor Island wore designer clothes”. These days with clothes costing a weeks wages and a wardrobe costing a years overtime pay, here as some basics to be sure they last as long as possible or at least until the next style comes along.

1. Have three baskets or bags for sorting whites, darks and medium colors.

2. Wash heavily soiled or work clothes separately.

3. Wash similar fabrics together jeans sweatshirts, etc. and loose knits separate.

4. Wash all new clothes with dark colors separately for at least the first few times.

5. Wash lint-producing clothes together and don’t wash clothes that are damaged (rips & tears etc.). Repair them first to avoid fraying.

6. Always check and double check pockets, take the extra few minutes you will thank me if you find that errant ballpoint pen as opposed to spending 3 hours cleaning all the ink from the dryer. (I know of a “friend” who had to do this recently).

7. Have a stain pre-treatment spray or stick handy to treat stains as you are sorting. Use a bar of non-scented soap in a pinch if you have nothing else.

8. Consider using a laundry booster which will give you that extra punch just in case you miss treating any stains before washing.

9. If you can inspect your laundry as you transfer it into the dryer. Giving larger pieces a shake when transferring them will help them dry faster and more evening than an article that is all balled up on itself.

10. Hang the designer clothes up as soon as possible this will help prevent all the moaning and groaning when your little cherub gets up late and complains the jean are wrinkled. “Hey I am not going to iron your jeans no matter what you say, jeans were invented for miners and I don’t think they got their Mommy’s to iron their jeans before going out and looking for gold nuggets all day.”

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Washing your car? Don’t forget the windows….

by David W. Bynon Copyright (c), 2000, Autopia Car Care — All Rights Reserved

how to clean car windows

Have you ever noticed how much better your car looks when the windows are perfectly clean? Yet, many of us ignore the windows when we wash because it adds a few precious minutes. Forget the time involved in keeping your glass clean for a moment, have you ever thought about how hazy, dirty windows can be a safety hazard? Driving your car with dirty, hazy windows on a rainy night or in heavy traffic, straining to see, is a driving impairment. You should consider this a true danger. In addition to being a hazard, the effects of dirty glass can quickly ruin the appearance of your perfectly polished and waxed automobile. Cleaning your windows is one of the most tedious tasks you will face. After you have completed all other detailing tasks, put the perfect touch on your car by detailing you cars glass.

Glass Cleaners

Just as in selecting car shampoo and wax, no two car enthusiasts can agree on the ultimate glass cleaner. Some people like ammonia cleaners, others swear by TSP, while the purists will use nothing but clear water.

Whatever you use, the principles are the same: clean, dry and polish. I highly discourage the use of ammonia-based glass cleaners on your car. While ammonia is a great glass cleaner for the home, ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces including vinyl, rubber, and leather. More importantly, the use of ammonia inside your car is harmful to your health. As a substitute to ammonia, I prefer citric acid, alcohol, or mechanical cleaners.

Glass cleaners in a spray bottle work fine. The only problem is over spray on the dash and upholstery. As it is difficult to direct the spray of glass cleaners, you will have the best luck spraying one side of a clean towel, wiping the glass, and they drying with the other side of the towel. Many professional detailers use plain water for wiping and cleaning the windows and dry the glass with newspaper. Unlike paper towels and most cotton towels, newspaper does not leave behind lint and the ink acts as a glass polish. The only draw back to this method is the newsprint ink on your hands when you’re done. Be sure to wash your hands before touching your upholstery.

Steps For Cleaning Windows

Start your window cleaning with the drives door and front passenger door. If your door has a window frame, lower the window approximately one inch to allow access to the top part of the glass. This part should be cleaned and dried first. Spray with glass cleaner and buff dry. Now roll the window back up and clean the remainder of the window. Pay attention to the corner of the windows, as this is where you will get most smears and streaks. Dont forget your drivers side and passenger side mirrors.

While you’re sitting down in the passengers seat, clean the inside of the windshield. The inside of the windshield is easier to clean from the passengers side as your access is not obstructed by the steering wheel. Take your time around the rearview mirror as it is only glued to your windshield. If you bump into the rearview mirror hard enough or at the right angle, you can break it loose from the glass.

The inside of the rear window is the most difficult to reach and should be done last. The best technique for cleaning your rear window is to use the backside of your hand to guide your towel down into the corners. Trying to use the palm of your hand will force you to be a contortionist and draw strange looks from your neighbors.

Cleaning Spotted Glass

Some parts of the country are burdened with extremely hard water. Hard water is water that contains excessive trace elements including calcium, iron, lime, and other minerals found in streams and rivers. These trace elements remain on your glass when water from sprinklers or washing air dries. These hard water spots attach themselves to glass like white on rice. If left on your glass for very long, hard water spots will not wash off with shampooing or regular glass cleaners. In my experience, there are only two ways to remove hard water spots. The first is to use distilled white vinegar. If your water spots are mild, you can dilute the vinegar 2:1 with water. Heavy spots may require pure vinegar. Either way, the vinegar will not harm you or your car. Vinegar is a very mild acid, which dissolves the alkaline-based mineral water deposits with ease. If hard water spots are allowed to remain for more than a week or two, they may etch the glass. So, even though you have removed the minerals causing the water spots, the spots remain as damage to your glass. In these cases, it is necessary to polish the glass. Until recently, there were a number of glass polishes on the market. The two best products were Eagle One Glass Polish & RainX Glass Polish. However, both of these products have been discontinued due to little demand. In my experience, any light (low abrasive) car polish that does not contain paint feeding oils will work as a good glass polish. Eagle One Scratch Remover is a good example of a polish that does not contain oils and works well on glass, as does P21S Multi-Surface Finish Restorer. There are two ways to use these polishes. The most gentle is to use an old t-shirt to polish the spotted area and buff to full luster. The second is to use the polish with #00 or finer synthetic steel wool to remove the spots then buff with an old t-shirt. If your glass is heavily pitted, or mildly scratched, you can also use polish to restore the finish. In this case, it may be necessary to use a buffer in order to achieve the desired results. In some cases, the glass may be so deeply pitted, etched, or scratched that the inevitable must occur, you must replace the glass.

Cleaning Window Tint Film

Window tint film is often applied to the inside windows to shade passengers or provide privacy. Window tint film is a thin sheet of Mylar plastic. Mylar easily scratches and will be destroyed by ammonia. To clean tinted windows, use mild cleaners and water only. Tint film that has been scratched can be polished with cleaners designed for the vinyl windows often found on convertible tops. The product I recommend for polishing and regular maintenance of window tint film is Plexus. Plexus comes in spray and is safe for use on plastic, Plexiglas, and window tint film. In addition to polishing your window tint film, Plexus works great on your tail light and headlight covers.

Windshield Wipers

Windshield wipers are necessary to clean your windshield and rear window when it rains, snows, becomes bug ridden, or dirty from long road trips. Wipers perform best when the rubber is in good shape and the glass is fairly clean. You should make it a habit to clean your front and rear wiper blades at the same time you clean your glass. After cleaning your glass, use a damp cloth to wipe the rubber blades, removing bug residue, wax, and other dirt build-up. Although rubber dressing helps preserve, protect, and beautify the rubber and vinyl parts on your car, you should not use dressings on your wiper blades. Rubber dressing on your blades will cause streaking and smearing, impairing your vision. The best overall maintenance of your blades is keeping them clean. No amount of cleaning will keep your blades in perfect condition. Wiper blades wear with each use. Most wiper blades will last about one year. When your blades become worn, dried, or faulty replace them with a new set. Most manufacturers recommend replacing wiper blades at the beginning of fall.

Final Touches

If your car is a year or more old, a close inspection may reveal dirt build-up in the corners of your windshield and rear window around the trim. To remove this caked on gunk, use an old toothbrush or detailing brush with your spray cleaner. Before cleaning, lay a towel at the base of the window to catch drips. Spray your brush with window cleaner and shake off the excess cleaner. Use your brush to scrub along the trim, breaking loose the dirt. Use the tip of a cotton swab to reach underneath trim and remove trapped dirt. If your brush wont remove the build-up of dirt use a sharp single edged razor blade to gently remove the dirt from your glass. Take care not to push your razor blade too far under rubber seals as this may cause leaks. Stay clear of defroster strips on rear windows that are not embedded in the glass. Cutting the defroster strips will render them useless. Follow up after the razor blade with your brush and glass cleaner.

Microfiber Cloth

Recently, the car detailing industry was introduced to a new cleaning cloth originally designed to clean semi-conductor manufacturing plants (often called œclean rooms). The revolutionary new cloth is a polyester/polyamide woven fabric that is non-abrasive and hypoallergenic. Soft like silk, yet tough as a bulldog, the cloth attracts dust, grime, oily films and salt residues just like a magnet. The cloth’s patented surface structure contains 90,000 micro fibers per square inch. These “micro-hooks” grab, lift, and hold dust and grime without the need for cleaning solutions. When used damp on glass, the cleaning cloth, which we call the Miracle Towel, cleans windows by pulling dirt and oils into the cloth. The ultra fine structure of the Miracle Towel leaves exceptionally small water beads, which dry without spotting. For perfect glass, follow the damp Miracle Towel with a dry Miracle Towel. Your Miracle Towel can be used damp or dry. When used dry, it works like a chamois. The super absorbent weave holds up to seven times its weight in water. To date, I have not found a cleaning product that can match the ease of use or result of the Miracle Towel. If you regularly maintain your windows, the Miracle Towel is the best overall substitution to chemicals and terry cloth drying towels. Unlike terry cloth or other cotton towels, the Miracle Towel will not leave lint or cause streaking. The Miracle Towel will not, however, remove sap, tar or hard water spots from your windows. These problems will still require the use of chemicals.

Other Tips & Hints

For long road trips and unexpected problems, keep a cleaning cloth in your glove box. I have found the simplest solution to window cleaning away from home, comes from P21S. P21S makes a product called Windshield Wipes, which are a sealed pouch containing a cleaning cloth and a drying cloth. The cleaning cloth has a strong cleaning solution that cuts through most glass problems. Also, from P21S, I have found that P21S Windshield Wash Booster improves my wipers ability to clean my windshield without streaking. The power of P21S Booster easily cuts through bugs and road grime.

Product Recommendations The glass products I recommend include: 1. Miracle Towel 2. Eimann Fabrik Clear Vision 3. Porsche Glass Cleaner 4. Stoner Invisible Glass 5. Plexus (window tint film) 6. P21S Windshield Wipes 7. P21S Windshield Wash Booster

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