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Blotting…say what?

What is blotting?  It does sound kind of silly when you say it but it one of the basic techniques in your cleaning arsenal.

One the most common mistakes I see people make when dealing with a spill is grabbing a wet dish cloth or towel. In most cases the best method is to blot or absorb the stain before introducing water or cleaning solution.

Blotting is the act of absorbing a stain with a dry absorbent towel such as a terry towel or even a paper towel (best using white towels so no colors from the the towel will run into the carpet or fabric you are blotting.) Blotting immediately after a spill or stain has occurred is the best way to combat stains. Blot by placing the towel over the stain. First fold your towel in quarters so you can flip over the towel a few times to get the maximum absorbency of your towel.  Placing a thick terry towel on a spill on a carpet and applying pressure or weight to the towel will often remove the majority of the stain.  Quick action and you won’t even have to spring for any fancy spot cleaners.

Nail Polish remover

Nail Polish remover normally contains the solvent acetone or amyl acetate. It is useful in removing nail polish (obviously…) from your finger nails and also fabric. Use a blotting action and test for color fastness. It will damage certain fabrics, but is usually safe on bedsheets etc. It is also effective at removing glues including crazy glue I don’t know about you but I usually stick my fingers together in addition to the object I am trying to repair, no matter how careful I am when using crazy glue.

Electrical Contacts & Terminals

Description:
Dirt and corrosion can reduce the electrical current in a circuit, and is the cause of many problems with small appliances.

Tools & Chemicals:
Sandpaper, a file, an emery board, or steel wool are all effective tools to clean contacts and terminals. Solvents, compressed air, and some spray on lubricants are effective ways to remove debris and prevent subsequent fouling.

Technique:
Be sure the appliance is unplugged before proceeding with any electrical work. Shock or death can result from working on live circuits. Depending on the surface, use which ever tool seems most appropriate. The objective is to remove the dirt or corrosion to allow the electrical current to flow uninhibited. Once the offending buildup is removed, a touch of spray lubricant or even petroleum jelly can prevent subsequent buildups.

Old stickers or decals

Spray with window cleaner or warm soap and water.  Scrape of with a scraper or credit card.  Depending on the surface WD-40 is effective as well.  Just be sure to test a small areas first to be sure the WD-40 has no ill effects.  WD-40 leaves an oily residue so it needs to be rinsed with soap and water.

How to clean the kichen sink

The vast majority of homes have standard, very durable stainless steel sinks.  There is a reason for this – they are inexpensive, stand up to years of use (and abuse), and can be cleaned up to look almost as good as new.

The most common staining with stainless steel sinks is the brown residue left when coffee is poured out, but not rinsed away. This discolouration can be a subtle yellow to a dark brown, especially if the sink is located at the office near the coffee station.

There are several solutions, the quickest is a cream cleanser and an SOS or abrasive scrubbing pad.  If you don’t feel like scrubbing, a mild acid such as CLR will typically remove these and any hard water deposits.  Just plug the sink and pour in at full concentration and leave overnight!

If the sink is very dull, or badly scratched you can polish it with fine steel wool, and metal polished typically found in the automotive isle for restoring the finish on aluminum wheels.

For acrylic, or solid surface materials check the underside of the sink for the manufacturers name and consult their web site for proper care instructions.  Usually to remove minor staining an acrylic safe cleaner and/or melamine sponge (such as a Magic Eraser) will remove surface staining.

The best preventative cleaning is to rinse the sink after each use, especially after discarding coffee, tea, colas and tomato based foods.

Blood on Bedding Sheets

Easy care is one of the primary reasons people choose cotton bedding. Removing stains from sheets, blankets, pillowcase and other bedding is easy thanks to the fabrics inherent qualities.
Blood is one stain that most people struggle to remove.  In many instances, usable cotton bedding is discarded and considered ruined once blood has leaked on to it.  Additional money is then spent on replacing the seemingly ruined items.
In other cases, much money is spent taking cotton bedding to the dry cleaners as a stain removal solution. In both cases, the result is spending extra money on new bedding that may be unnecessary.

Blood can easily be removed from most washable cotton bedding by using very ordinary household cleaning products.  As soon as a stain is noticed the sheets should be laundered in cold water.  If the stain has dried, pretreat the area with hydrogen peroxide.  It should bubble up and loosen the stain before you wash it as usual.  Another, even more common solution is regular shampoo. Any shampoo will usually do the trick, be it your favorite brand or a less expensive store brand.
For optimal stain removal, it’™s best to remove the stain as soon as possible, preferably upon occurrence.  Albeit, this is not always feasible. But, it is helpful to try to remove blood from cotton bedding before it dries and is ‘set’ to ensure complete elimination. In any case, using shampoo will usually eliminate hours-old stains in minutes.  For stains more than 24 hours old, you may have to first soak the bedding in a large bucket, or even the bathtub. Then, you can get about the task of fighting that stain  which in most cases can take upwards to 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the density of the bedding, or upwards to a day or so if you have to soak the stain.
To remove blood stains from your washable cotton bedding find a good location to begin your stain removal efforts. Keep in mind as bedding is bulky when wet, you want to be near or in the bathroom or by a large sink to avoid water leaking on floors and/or carpet.
Douse the stain with a capful of shampoo, making sure that some shampoo touches every part of the stain.
Rub the soiled portions of the bedding until the shampoo is completely absorbed, then wet with cold or warm water. Once bubbles appear, briskly scrub the bedding. Rinse the stain and evaluate your efforts. Is the stain completely gone? Is their a slight ring showing the shape of the stain? Is the stain still visible? If any portion of the blood is still visible, including a light ring, then follow this step two or three more times. By the third time, fresh stains should be totally removed. However, if the stain has been allowed to sit in the bedding for 48 hours or so even if it is still visible after you attempted to remove by traditional machine washing than you will likely need to pour shampoo on the stain and soak the bedding for several hours. Overnight soaking is also possible, if you desire to do so. Once you have soaked the stain for the allotted time, then you can wash the bedding.
Cotton bedding that has been treated for blood stains by shampoo and rinsed can be washed according to your usual preferred methods and/or the manufacturers instructions. If you prefer bleaching your white cotton bedding, you can do so at this stage  be it liquid bleach for whites or non-chlorine bleach for colored bedding. Since the shampoo has been rinsed out of the bedding, it will not impair your detergent or bleachs cleaning ability.

Always check for stains before drying as the heat from a dryer will set the stain permenantly. If you are uncertain if the stain is removed from the damp bedding, hang outside in the sun to dry. The sun will not only help to bleach out any remaining stains, but it will dry the cloth in a way that will not further set the stain.

Cleaning algae from your roof

If you have black, unsightly stains on your asphlat roof, the most likely cuase is algae feeding on the limestone within your asphalt shingles.  While there several ways to prevent further growth, and many companies that provide roof cleaning, it is a project you can do yourself, of course taking all the precautionary measures required when working at heights, on potentially slippery surfaces.  In order to remove or limit future algae growth you will need to remove the existing algae stains.  There are a number of commercial cleaners available, but oxygen bleach is just as effective, and not as hard on your lawn, shrubs and the environment in general.

Watch the weather closely and try to wait for a dry, overcast day.   This cleaning solution works best out of direct sun, but you also need a dry spell so the cleaning solution isn’t just washed away!

Using a pump type sprayer (a backpack style unit is ideal as it will free you both your hands for other things, like holding onto the ladder, keeping your balance on the roof, etc).  Mix up the oxygen bleach in the reservoir of the pump sprayer.  Check the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct dilution rates as each product may recommend slightly different proportions.  Wear your safety goggles and gloves when you are mixing the solution.

Spray down the roof with the oxygen bleach solution.  It is best to spray the entire roof so that you do not have lighter coloured patches where the bleach was sprayed and darker areas where it was not.  Allow this treatment sit for 20 minutes to half an hour, but if the day is warm or windy enough that the solution may dry, then you will need to re-apply the solution.

Agitate the roof gently with the stiff broom using caution not to scrub so hard as to remove granules from the shingles themselves. The bleach will kill the algae and lighten the stains and using the broom, you will be able to scrape existing algae off and remove the stains as well.  Work in a systematic manner from the peak down to the gutter.  Use caution for the last section you are cleaning as you will need to stand on the area you have just scrubbed and it may be slippery!  Use a safety harness over the peak and secured properly.

Rinse off the roof thoroughly using the garden hose using a gentle sprinkle of water starting at the peak and working toward the gutter.  Never use a pressure washer, or even a focused stream of water from a pressure type nozzle.  This will either dislodge excessive granules from the shingles or force its way under the shingles!  If it doesn’t actually cause your roof to leak it will reduce the lifespan of regular asphalt shingles each time it is done!  Also use caution to not apply such significant amounts of water that it races over the gutter and into your yard.  This just adds another step to the clean up process.  The rinse will dilute the bleach and remove the algae so that you can determine if you need to repeat the treatment or just let the roof dry.

Use caution and remember that if you don’™t feel up to performing this job yourself there are many contractors that professionally do this kind of work.  Get references and ask to see before and after pictures it CAN make a huge difference in the appearance of your home!

Cleaning Algae from your fish tank

With a little work and a few simple cleaning supplies you can remove the unsightly algae from your fish tank.  Here are some of the supplies you will need:

Algae scraper/pad, Razor blade, Regular Household Bleach, Filter media, Water siphon, Lime remover or aquarium glass cleaner, Clean rags or towel, Paper towels

Start by cleaning the inside glass, then decorations, gravel, the exterior of the glass and cover and finally the filter.

Begin by giving the glass a thorough cleaning on the inside with an algae pad. There are a wide variety of algae scrapers on the market, from long handled scrubbers to magnetic scrubbers. Although they appear the same, houseware cleaning pads can have soap and chemical residue imbedded in the fibers. This reside can be lethal to your fish, so only use pads specifically intended for aquariums.

For stubborn residue on the glass, use a razor blade held at a very narrow angle to scrape it off. If your aquarium is acrylic, use a plastic razor blade, as steel razors will scratch acrylic even if you are very careful.

Once the inside glass is cleaned, remove rocks, artificial plants, or decorations that have significant algae growth, or are noticeably dirty. Do not clean them with soap or detergents as it is impossible to completely remove soap residue, and as mentioned even a trace can be lethal to fish. Typically a good scrub with an algae scraper will remove the algae and dirt from rocks and plants. For particularly stubborn cleaning problems, mix a 10% bleach solution and soak the items for 15 to 20 minutes. Scrub any remaining residue off, rinse thoroughly in running water, and allow to air dry, in the sun if possible.

Live plants can bleached, however stem plants are not tolerant of bleaching. To bleach live plants prepare a 5% bleach solution, soak the plants for two minutes, then rinse well. Leave the rocks, decorations and plants out of the tank while you vacuum the gravel. This way none of the debris stirred up from the gravel will settle back on the cleaned items.

Clean the gravel next, by using a water siphon to vacuum away the debris. There are several types of siphons available, all of which work essentially the same. Be sure to vacuum the entire surface of the gravel thoroughly so that all debris is removed.

Once the inside of the aquarium is cleaned, clean the hood, light, tank top, and outside glass. Regular glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is toxic to fish. Standard lime cleaners are even more toxic. I strongly urge using vinegar or cleaners designated as aquarium safe, and rinse rinse rinse!

After the outside is clean, the rocks, plants, and other decorations may be returned to the tank. Now wait a couple of weeks before cleaning the filter. Why wait? The major cleaning you just performed disturbed the beneficial bacterial colonies on the plants, rocks, and gravel. Fortunately many beneficial bacteria reside within the filter media, so you haven’t completely upset the Eco-system. However if you changed the filter at the same time, you might trigger a dangerous ammonia spike because there aren’t enough beneficial bacteria left to eliminate the toxins.

When you are ready to clean the filter, should you clean or simply replace the filter media entirely? Some experts caution that replacing the filter media removes too many of the beneficial bacteria, and triggers a new tank break-in cycle.  Some experts argue that sufficient bacteria reside on the rocks, plants, and in the gravel to prevent the tank from cycling when the filter is replaced.  What you should do depends on the type of filter media you use.

If you have filter media containing carbon, ammonia absorbers, or ion-exchange resins, it should be replaced if it’s more than three weeks old. After a couple of weeks the absorbing qualities of the media have been exhausted, and it no longer serves its purpose. Media that acts as a mechanical filter instead of absorbing toxins (i.e.: ceramic rings, filter fiber, or sponges) should be gently rinsed to remove debris and returned to the filter instead of replaced. If care is taken to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium water, and the media is quickly returned to the filter, the bacterial colonies growing on them will not be lost entirely.

Don’t forget to clean the filter tubing and other parts of the filter assembly. A filter brush will help clear out the sludge that invariably builds up in all the small crevices.

Regular maintenance is the key to avoiding or significantly increasing the time between these major cleaning procedures.  Scrape the glass weekly, vacuum the gravel every time you perform a water change, and clean any rocks or plants as soon as you see debris or algae on them. Clean the filter monthly, either by replacing the media, or rinsing it. With regular care, your aquarium will look beautiful all the time.

For fish tank cleaning visit All Pond Solutions

Trouble shooting guide to tough stains on Pots and Pans!

If you have men or teenagers in the house attempting to cook you will have some challenging stains of your Pots and Pans here are some quick hints to address some common troublesome stains.

Aluminum pots

Discoloration – add 2(two tablespoons of cream of tarter or lemon juice per liter (quart) of water) boil for 12 minutes

Enamelware

baked on stains impervious to the dishwasher! – use baking soda and scrub gently.

Iron Pots or pans

Cooked or baked on food – 2 teaspoons of baking soda with a liter of water boil for 5 minutes.

Non-stick pot or pans

Lingering onions or garlic aromas – 2 tablespoons of vinegar or lemon juice, soak for 15 minutes.  wash with warm soay water and rinse.

Kettles

Lime scale build up – One to one ratio of water and white vinegar.  Let sand for a few hours and scrub with an abrasive scrubber if possible or just  rinse really well after letting the kettle soak.

Brass pots

A home made tarnish remover is a paste made of flour, salt and white vinegar (or lemon juice), rub gently to remove tarnish.

Mildew…quick tips

You don’t need fancy mildew cleaners to remove mildew from your shower etc.  regular household bleach work fine.  Dont use full strength use only a little less than a quarter cup (60ml) for a little more than a pint of water (1 liter).  Be sure to rinse your cleaning  solution off when done.  Use gloves and or work clothes since bleach will do what bleach does…bleach things.  And kill germs and remove mildew. Happy cleaning.

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