Tools & Techniques:
Remove all excess material before attempting to clean. Remove by gently scraping off the excess gum (first place an ice cube in a plastic bag and rub over the gum to make it hard). Blotting is the act of using a terry towel or an absorbant towel and applying pressure to the stain with the dry towel, in effect transfering the stain to the towel. It is important to use a clean preferably white towel.
Apply a small amount of a volatile solvent and blot with a white terry towel.
Repeat this until the stain is removed or until no more of the stain will transfer onto the towel. Do not use solvents such as: gasoline or paint thinner.
Volatile solvents, such as acetone, nail polish remover or dry cleaning solvent, are available at some grocery stores or at your carpet cleaning supply retailer. A volatile solvent will dissipate at room temperature and will leave no residue. If you are using non-volatile solvents they must be completely rinsed with a volatile solvent. Non-volatile solvents (if left in the carpet) can cause delamination in synthetic carpets either immediately or over a period of time.
Technique:
Using a terry towel, soak or blot as much of the urine as possible. If the stain is fresh most of the urine can be soaked up this way. Be sure you have lots of towels and always use a completly dry area of the towel to blot with.
Now using a neutral pH low residue spotter, apply a small amount, blot and repeat until the stain is removed.
An alternative is to mix 1 tsp. of neutral pH liquid detergent (dish washing or fine fabric detergent that does not contain any bleach ) into 1 cup of warm water. Tamp, do not scrub as this may distort the texture of of the pile. Cover with a white terry towel and press down repeatedly.
If the spot or stain turns brownish when dry, mix 1:2 white vinegar and water. Apply a small amount and blot. Repeat only once.
I noticed that someone was asking about yellowing here is how I answered a similar question on yahoo answers recently…
Here are some ideas for you:
Yellowing – Always read and follow the care instructins and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.
Some fabrics which are white or pastel colored contain optical brighteners or fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) which were applied during manufacturing. These agents can decompose when exposed to light and atmospheric conditions, or prolonged storage conditions. In some cases the entire fabric becomes dingy or develops a yellow cast. In other cases the yellowing develops only where exposed to light. The FWAs can also be damaged by the use of chlorine bleach.
Unfortunately, once the FWAs are damaged, the whitening agents can’t be reapplied to the fabric.
All fabric bleach or the use of speciality products available in grocery or drug stores, such as Rit’s “Whitener and Brightener” may help. Carefully read and follow the instructions on the product label, and check for colorfastness first.
another tip to look at :
Dinginess, Yellowing, Graying – Always read anbd foolow the care instruction and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.
There are several reasons why fabrics gray, yellow, and become dingy, including not using the right amount of detergent (i.e., using too much or too little detergent), insufficient rinsing, and/or the wash water temperature is too low. To reburbish clothing from these discolorations:
Wash with a permanent press cycle in hot water, use a cool-down rinse on permanent press and use one cup of water conditioner instead of detergent.
If the discoloration remains, either repeat this procedure or wash with the correct amount of detergent and either all-fabric bleach or chlorine bleach, if safe for the fabric. (always check for colorfastness first.)
If the fabric is white, consider speciality products available in grocery or drug stores, such as Rit’s “Whitener and Brightener” to whiten the fabric.Always separate and wash your whites separate from colors. And, don’t put heavily soil garments with lightly soiled items.
This question was submitted by Tammy; “A pen got into the dryer, how do I remove the ink?”
Conveniently one of the Forum experts had the same thing happen to him not very long ago.
Tools & Techniques:
Clean dry cleaning rags
Multi use solvent
1. First do NOT run the dryer anymore, heat absolutely sets ink stains.
2. Using a clean dry cleaning rag wipe as much ink off as possible. If you catch it before the heat has set, then you have a good chance of total removal.
3. In my case there was an extreme amount of ink and I wiped what I could. Next I got progressively more aggressive with my cleaning compounds. I started by using a large towel and poured a mixture of warm water and dish soap on the towel and placed it in the drum in an attempt to have some of the ink soak into the towel since there was so much ink. I had marginal success with that, but I was able to get some off and especially were there were large amounts of ink.
4. Then I used a multi-use solvent designed to break down gum, glue, ink etc. Caution: Solvents are flammable, be sure the dryer is cool, and there is very good ventilation when working. Pouring the solvent on my clean dry white cleaning rags I slowly worked on my dryer drum, using numerous cleaning rags I was able to remove alot of the ink.
5. The problem I was having was ink under the agitators (usually plastic). The ink on the plastic came off well with the solvent, but ink had pooled under the agitators. I poured a general purpose cleaner along the edge and a fair bit of ink came out. I did not pour the solvent since I did not want to much flammable material to be used.
6. The key was I took my time and used alot of rags always pouring the solvent on them and removing as much ink as possible.
7. Now I had so much ink that I eventually used paint thinner to remove more ink. Now paint thinner is also very flammable so I used it with caution. I did not nor would I recommend running the dryer for at least 24 hours, waiting for all the vapor to dissipate first. This is why I did not pour the solvent directly into the drum.
8. Now all this took some time and effort and after it was all done I did not even get 100% of the ink removed only about 70% so I was a little frustrated. After about 24 hours I ran the dryer only on air fluff to be sure there was no vapor. And I washed and dried some work clothes to absorb any ink that may not have come off.
9. It has been a couple months now and it looks like a little more ink has come off but I have seen absolutely no ink on any clothes. To summarize be patient and realize that it probably will not be perfect and you will have to live with some ink stains on your dryer drum but overall it will have no impact on your dryers performance. I will NEVER again forget to remove my pens from my pocket (I hope…) this was one tough job. Good Luck
Rubber tile floors are made of natural or synthetic rubbers colored by mineral pigments. It has a non-porous, smooth surface resistant to most stains, abrasion and cleaners. Although very durable, rubber floors can be damaged by oil, solvents, abrasive cleaners, harsh alkalis and sunlight, which can discolor the rubber. All of the above can make the floor lose its elasticity.
Vacuuming is the easiest way to remove dust and lint. Regular cleaning is best with detergent and water. Rubber floors can be finished if a shiny surface is desired.
If the paint has dried you have a challenge.
Try these techniques :
For an old stain try using a paint remover (from a hardware store). Test a small area first. This is a fairly harsh chemical designed to turn paint to mush so it can be removed from furniture for refinishing etc.
Scrape and remove (using a spoon) as much of the paint as possible.
If the paint remover is working apply more as needed. Be careful not scrub, this will force the paint deep into fibers, and can also damage the fibres leaving a hole or much lighter appearance.
If the stain is still there, cover with glycerin and let sit for several hours in an attempt to loosen the stain.
Then treat as a fresh stain and start by sponging out as much of the stain as possible before applying a laundry pre-treat – launder in warm water. Do not put in the dryer. Inspect the stain to see if you have to try again to remove it. The heat from the dryer will set the stain!
If you are fond of these pants try going to a professional cleaner. Point out the stain and ask if they think they can remove it; they likely can with better results than trying at home.
If the paint is oil based the pre-treatment should be a solvent designed for oil based paint (paint thinner).
There are dozens of types of flooring material found in homes. Many specialized materials have very specific care instructions from the manufacturer, which should be followed as closely as possible. Woven flooring tiles, commercial grade marmoleum, terrazzo, or finished concrete are occasionally found in homes, although because they usually require professional care, we will not go into detail with these types of floors. The other more common surfaces we will detail are wood (real and synthetic), carpet, vinyl, ceramic tile, and unfinished concrete.
Regardless of the type of floor, the two commonalities are that clean floors look better, and clean floors last longer. For example, imagine a particle of dirt in a carpet. As the particle is stepped on, and ground in, it will rub against the carpet fibers. This abrasion will eventually damage the fiber beyond repair, which will effect the overall appearance of the carpet. The same holds true with wood, tiles, vinyl, and even unfinished concrete. Make it last by keeping it clean.
Wood:
Hardwood floors are protected by a sealer, which penetrates the wood pores, and a coating of polyurethane, shellac, or varnish. Some of these finishes on newer floors are applied in a factory, others are finished after being installed, and others still, are protected by only by wax. As with all floors, vacuum or sweep frequently to keep dirt from being ground into the floor’s finish. Clean spills or mud immediately using an absorbent cloth. Avoid apply too much water to any floor, the surface may be water resistant, however if the substrate is damaged so will the floor itself.. Dry them off with a clean towel to remove excess moisturel.
Do not wax a urethane finish. The wax prevents future recoating, which is how you renew a dulled finish without stripping, sanding, and refinishing the floor. Likewise, choose cleaning products carefully. Use a cleaner recommended by the manufacturer of your floor or your floor’s finish. If you don’t know the type of finish or its manufacturer, use a general cleaner, like Woodwise Floor cleaner, available at wood flooring distributors, or most Home Centers. For wax finishes apply the same logic and use a wax recommended by the manufacturer.
Never use a water-based cleaner. It can stain the wood white. To remove white water spots on a wax finish wood floor, rub gently and in a circular motion with an extra-fine (#000) steel wool and a small amount of mineral spirits. Always follow the chemical manufacturers safety precautions, and be sure to work in a well ventilated area.
Synthetic wood floors, look like wood, but it is just a printed picture of wood glued to a particle board backing. The finishes on these styles of flooring are VERY durable. The don’t scratch, and will keep there appearance for many years.
Usually a quick sweep or vacuum will clean them, although mopping will be required occasionally to remove spills or stains. When mopping the floor, use a mild detergent and, being sure not to use too much water, go over the entire floor. If excessive moisture leaks between the planks, it can badly damage the backing. Then using plain water, rinse off the floor to avoid leaving a detergent film.
Carpets
Carpets act as filters for an entire house. All of the dust particles in the air eventually settle into the carpet, where they are vacuumed up and removed from the home. Carpets should be vacuumed weekly to maintain their efficiency in collecting dust, and it doesn’t hurt appearance wise either. High traffic areas or entrance areas from outside or a dirty garage might require more frequent cleaning.
Choose a good quality vacuum, and select a unit with a beater bar (or power head) and a HEPA grade filter if you or any members of your family have bad allergies to dust. Keep your vacuum cleaner itself clean and in good working order. An excellent choice for a vacuum is a built in canister style. These are great because they remove the dust completely away from the main living area.
For spot cleaning check out our Do’s and Don’ts of carpet cleaning. Always be sure to blot the stained area, and check for special instructions for removing different types of stains.
Do not overwet wall-to-wall carpeting – excessive wetting can cause the fabric backing to shrink. Sometimes this shrinkage can even cause tears in the carpet. For many non oil-based stains on water-treatable cotton and wool rugs, a good solution to begin with is ¼ teaspoon clear dishwashing liquid and 1 cup warm water.
Dirt is a lot easier to get out than mud. That means if your kids track mud over your Oriental runner in the hallway, let it dry first. Then lift up as much as you can with a dull knife or the handle of a spoon and vacuum the rest. If there is still a residual effect, like a slight shading where the mud was, use the above detergent solution.
Deep clean your rug every 12 to 18 months, either by hiring a professional or doing it yourself. If you use a wet method, like shampooing, remove the furniture from the room beforehand. Or, to prevent rust or other stains from leaking into the rug, place plastic food wrap under and around the legs of chairs and tables. Follow all instructions carefully. Never exceed the recommended solution strength. When you are finished, remove all shampoos, detergents and moisture, which cause dirt to stick to the rug.
Follow the instructions on the product label for proper use and safety precautions. Oriental rugs, which are the most fragile of all area rugs, can be vacuumed safely – and should be as often as other carpets to keep them in peak condition. Vacuum as usual, except when approaching the fringe. With an upright cleaner, tip up the front of the cleaner slightly and push it completely off the carpet. This cleans the fringe without catching it in the agitator. With a canister use a floor brush or upholstery attachment for the fringe. Send antique area carpets out to a professional for implant cleaning.
Linoleum and Vinyl
Linoleum floors were once very common but until very recently were little used in residential flooring. Lately more linoleum is being laid due to its environmentally friendly nature. A pressed type floor traditionally made from natural ingredients, linoleum is very tough. Newer linoleum floors have a tight surface, which is very water, and stain resistant. However, as it ages and wears down it becomes very porous. This, in turn, creates the need for finish to protect the floor.
We recommend sealing a linoleum floor even when it is new so any wear occurs with the finish and not on the floor. Once a linoleum floor becomes porous it is almost impossible to finish it properly. The porous surface will absorb almost any liquid put on it. Also it is very important not to use any alkaline products on linoleum. These will yellow the floor. Use mild detergent to clean and a very light coat of finish to seal. Stripping should be avoided. To prepare the floor for new finish scrub it with a brush and detergent. Rinse with clean water and let dry completely before applying finish.
Vinyl flooring, typically called a no wax, or a no maintenance floor, they appear commonly in kitchens and bathrooms. These large sheets have a variety of patterns and colors, and are factory finished with a tough polyurethane type finish. These floors are very inexpensive, and are simply glued down.
Usually a quick sweep or vacuum will clean them, although mopping will be required occasionally to remove spills or stains. When mopping the floor, use a mild detergent and, being sure not to use too much water, go over the entire floor. Then using plain water, rinse off the floor to avoid leaving a detergent film.
Although called called no maintenance, these floors can loose their luster over time. This can be restored with an acrylic floor polish, that is applied in a very thin coat. Check your local home center or janitorial supplier. These floors are soft, and easily damaged, especially in the kitchen where we all tend to drop pots and knives. Expect to replace these floors every 7 to 10 years under regular use.
Ceramic Tile
Ceramic is very resilient, and while it is very tough a sharp blow can crack or damage the tile.
Usually a quick sweep or vacuum will clean them, although mopping will be required occasionally to remove spills or stains. When mopping the floor, use a mild detergent and, being sure not to use too much water, go over the entire floor. Then using plain water, rinse off the floor to avoid leaving a detergent film.
These floors can be scrubbed with a machine, cleaned with chemical stripper, and maintained with wax. Some finishes are durable enough to not require any waxing, and in fact wax is likely unnecessary in most residential applications.
Unfinished concrete
The unfinished basement and the garage both are considered dust or dirty. This doesn’t have to be the case. Concrete collects dust like other surfaces, but how often do we vacuum our garages? Treat them like other floors, sweep or vacuum and give them a good mopping once a month. It does wonders for the space visually, and will help keep your house cleaner. There are a number of superior concrete finishes, both clear sealers and paint or epoxy finishes. These are excellent for providing an easy to clean surface, and most are simple roll on applications.
Attic’s are a very important part of our homes, however people tend to ignore them until they have no choice but to inspect them. Come the spring thaw, when your roof begins leaking, damaging drywall, paint, and furniture, it is too late for a preventative inspection.
Attics are a buffer in two very important ways. The attic is NOT heated. In fact, outside air should circulate freely within an attic for proper circulation. This does the important job of keeping moisture levels down, which is the second way an attic acts as a buffer. Every attic should have vents to permit air flow. Most of these vents are in the eaves, and in many cases they are assisted with a “whirly bird” attic vent on the roof itself. A dry, cool attic is a functional part of every house.
A dry attic should not have a pest problem, however a warm, moist attic is a recipe for not only mold and mildew, but insects and rodents can thrive. The other common pests are birds and bats which can enter very small holes to nest. It is a good idea to have all vents screened to prevent this problem.
Rodents can be particularly harmful in an attic. They can gain access to much of your home, their urine smells and will permeate through the ceiling, and they can damage everything from electrical wiring to vapor barriers.
When inspecting your attic, pay special attention to the wooden structure of the roof itself. Watch for variations in the coloring to look for possible breaches in the exterior water proof membrane. This is most common around chimneys and plumbing vents. As well, on the bottom 3 or 4 feet of the roof above the eaves, and in valleys where 2 roofing surfaces meet are critical areas. Cycles of freezing and thawing found in the spring can sometime cause water to flow UP, underneath the shingles or tile, and leak into the attic.
Check the seal of your attic hatch using a candle. Light it, and then blow it out so it will smoke. Run the candle around the perimeter of the hatch to see if the smoke is drawn in, or blown out. If either occurs, add a strip of foam weather seal to the hatch.
Check for the storage of chemicals. Do the containers have labels? Are they out of reach of small children? Are the products still effective, or have they expired?
The most important thing to remember when cleaning walls is to start at the bottom and work your way up. If you start at the top, dirty water runs down the wall leaving very dirty streaks, however if you start at the bottom, any runs are much easier to wipe off a freshly cleaned wall.
Semi gloss and gloss paints can easily be cleaned (this is what most kitchens and bathrooms have on the walls), a flat finish can only be cleaned if it is a light color. Dark colors tend to show marks very badly, and will usually look much worse than before being “cleaned”.
Before washing, dust or vacuum walls to remove loose dust and soil.
Use a drop cloth when washing walls.
Most painted surfaces can be cleaned with a mild solution of warm water and liquid dishwashing detergent and then rinsed with clear water. You’ll need two buckets – one for the cleaning solution and one for the rinse water and two big sponges.
Working in overlapping sections, apply the cleaning solution to the walls by rubbing gently in a circular motion.
Rinse with a separate sponge reserved specifically for the rinse water. After you’re done with one section, proceed to the next area, making sure that the cleaning edges overlap.
When you’ve done several areas, dry off the excess moisture with a terry cloth or towel.
If the walls are very dirty, you can use a stronger solution to dissolve the dirt. Use a TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) solution, especially before painting. Caution: TSP will dull all surfaces, and may remove paint, particularly flat finishes.
Test your chemical in an inconspicuous corner first to make sure that the paint colour and finish are not damaged by cleaning. When using TSP, wear protective eyewear, rubber gloves, and a long-sleeve shirt. Always read the label for proper usage and safety precautions.
To disinfect your kitchen cleaning rags or sponges soak in 1/2 to 3/4 cup of bleach and 4 liters (1 gallon) of water. I sometimes throw my sponges in the dishwasher. I try to clean the kitchen cleaning cloths once every week or so in addition to regular laundering.
