A Resource of Helpful Cleaning Tips
I put a 4 cup measuring cup half filled with water and set timer for five minutes. I let it set for another five minutes in the microwave and all spattered food comes of easily with a paper towel. I have never had a problem removing even tough food from interior.
Submitted by P. Clark
General Information :
Ceiling fans tend to get quite dusty, especially along the leading edge of the blades. They can also accumulate smoke, soot and pollution residue.
Tools & Technique :
Dust the blades regularly. Clean them with mild detergent 2-3 times a year. Always unplug before cleaning and dry afterwards. This prevents re-soiling as quickly.
Special Tools :
There are some specially designed dusters available that are custom made for ceiling fans. These are oval shaped with brushes all around, plus they will have an extendable handle. You pass the fan blade through the opening, dusting all sides and edges.
There are a wide variety of chandeliers out there from glass to plastic.
In most cases you are able to remove the individual pieces, clean by using a good terry cloth and water or window cleaner.
You can make your own mild window or glass cleaner by mixing 1 gallon of distilled water and a cup of rubbing alcohol and a tablespoon of dish soap. Mix in a gallon jug and pour into a clean spray bottle.
Polish dry the pieces with a terry towel as you clean to prevent residue Using distilled water will also reduce and residue). And work in small sections so you remember where all the pieces go.
In a Hurry
Use cotton gloves and just run your hands over the pieces for a quick cleaning (you can lightly spray your gloves with a cleaner.)
You can also use a feather duster (osterage feather dusters are best, or a can of compressed air for a quick dusting.
If your chandelier is glass then place a comforter or quilt under the chandelier as you are cleaning to catch any flying pieces and prevent or lessen the chance of breakage it also will act as a drop cloth when you are cleaning. Be sure you are working on a stable surface a ladder is best as you can move it as you move around the chandelier, in some cases where the chandelier is above stairs etc. proper scaffolds should be used.
General Information:
To clean chandeliers, there is an easy way and a not so easy way. The not so easy way may be necessary if there is a heavy accumulation of grime, or if the chandelier is located near a kitchen where grease might soil the surface. Both methods require you safely be able to access the fixture. Many newer chandeliers, and commercial units are installed on a winch that can raise or lower the unit with the turn of a switch.
Tools & Technique:
The easy way requires the power to the unit to be off. It is a good idea to turn off the breaker to be certain.
Using small plastic bags, cover each light fixture and secure with elastic bands.
Mix a spray of warm water and rubbing alcohol in a 10-1 ratio.
Place a heavy towel under the chandelier, and spray the mixture onto every crystal.
Allow the fixture to drip dry, there shouldn’t be any streaks and the crystals should sparkle like new.
Allow the whole unit to dry for 24 hours before restoring power.
The hard way is similar, only harder. Much harder.
Remove 10 or 12 crystals at a time, any more than this and you run the real risk of having a much different looking chandelier by the time you are finished.
Dip each crystal individually into a bucket of the same mixture. For greasy films, add a few drops of dish washing soap.
Rinse each crystal individually. Then lay out each on a terry towel.
Polish each crystal and return it to its place on the chandelier.
These crystals will break, and chip each other so dip and rinse only one at a time, and try using a clear bucket so you can see what you are doing.
This is very labor intensive, and once you start you are committed to finish because the dirty crystals look like hazy chunks of plastic next to the clean and polished ones.
General Information :
Regular chinaware that is used everyday is treated like any dishware.
Fine china, on the other hand, must be treated delicately. To protect the glaze and patterns never put fine china in the dishwasher. Always wash fine china first when the dish soap is most effective. This lessens the need for scrubbing and also can prevent chipping from contact with heavier items such a pots.
General Information :
Regular chinaware that is used everyday is treated like any dishware.
Fine china, on the other hand, must be treated delicately. To protect the glaze and patterns never put fine china in the dishwasher. Always wash fine china first when the dish soap is most effective. This lessens the need for scrubbing and also can prevent chipping from contact with heavier items such a pots.
Cleaning Your Fire Place:
When they are cold, remove ashes in excess of 2 inches with a fireplace shovel or vacuum cleaner.
· Wash the hearth and front of the fireplace or stove exterior occasionally with a sponge or cloth dipped in an all-purpose household cleaner and water solution.
· Clean a cast iron exterior with a hand dishwashing detergent and water solution. Rinse with a clean, damp sponge or cloth and dry. Remove soot from brick or stone facing with a soft brush, then scrub with a strong solution of washing soda or trisodium phosphate (TSP) and water or all-purpose household cleaner and water. Old brick (more than 50 years old) should only be vacuumed to avoid crumbling.
For big jobs; Add 4 ounces of naptha soap to 1 quart of hot water. Heat until soap dissolves. Cool, then stir in ½ pound of powdered pumice and ½ cup of household ammonia. Mix thoroughly. Remove as much of the smoky deposit as you can before applying a coast of the soap mixture with a paint brush. Allow it to remain on for 30 to 60 minutes. Scrub with a scrub brush and warm water. Sponge with plenty of water to rinse.
Screens:
Clean the mesh every few months with a vacuum cleaner and dusting attachment. To wash, use a sponge or cloth dipped in an all-purpose household cleaner and water solution; rinse and dry.
Fireplace maintenance: A fireplace has five basic parts: firebox, hearth, damper, flue and chimney The firebox is where the fire is set and its floor is the hearth. The damper is the metal gate between the firebox and the chimney. Open it before lighting a fire. When a fire is lit, smoke travels through the damper and the flue-lined chimney out into the open air.
Before cold weather begins, take the following steps to be sure your fireplace operates properly and safely. Check the flue for leaves or birds’ nests. On a sunny day, use a mirror and a powerful flashlight to look up the chimney through the open damper. If you see blockage, call a chimney sweep for help. Once a year, hire a chimney sweep to clean soot from the flue and inspect it for cracks. You want to be assured that no flame will find its way to your house’s framing through a crack and that caked soot, which can cause a chimney fire, is cleaned away. If you fireplace has warm-air circulators embedded in the firebox walls, vacuum the ducts at the beginning of each heating season. Have any cracks in the firebox and hearth repaired.
Here is a question submitted by Eva:
How do I clean a 100 year antique baby gown?
Cleaning and preserving a 100 year old gown is not something that should be attempted by the consumer due to the risk of destroying the gown. However, there are several options available to the consumer.
If the gown is to be worn again, it can be restored to its original condition by a professional, but this will negate the antique value of the gown. You will have an antique gown that now looks new.
The gown can be cleaned and preserved in its current antique state by a professional. The gown will be clean, but any yellowing and other characteristics of an antique will be preserved. The gown will be packaged in a viewing chest designed for that purpose.
The final option, and the only one open to the do-it-yourself consumer, is to purchase a Christening Gown Preservation box. The gown can be placed in the box in its current condition. The box has a clear window for display. This will greatly retard any further deterioration of the gown, but will not entirely prevent it. Take a look at examples of Gown preservation kits at The Gown Medic website www.Gownmedic.com
Answered by Forum Expert Ed from Suncoast Preservtion Labs. For more info check out Ed Bio on the Ask A Pro page.
Tools & Techniques:
Colored items must be protected by pretesting the effect of any recommendation on a hidden area of the item.
Rinse in cold water to dilute the stain. Soak up to 30 minutes by adding 1/2 capful of Liquid detergent per gallon of water. Use a PLASTIC bucket. Weigh the item down with a WHITE towel to keep submerged. Discard soak solution prior to laundering. Examine the stain, if it looks like removal is almost complete, then wash. Wash normally in warm to hot water, and use the medium water fill level. Use the permanent press cycle. If there is any stain remaining repeat procedure if necessary.
Tools & Techniques:
Refer to the care label for handling precautions and test any stain removal technique suggested in a hidden area in order to avoid damage to the item.
Rinse in cold water to dilute the stain. Soak up to 30 minutes by adding 1/2 capful of Liquid detergent per gallon of water. Use a PLASTIC bucket. Weigh the item down with a WHITE towel to keep submerged. Discard soak solution prior to laundering. Wash by hand. Wash in warm water at 95° to 110° F / 35° to 43.3° C. Rinse thoroughly. Line or air dry. Repeat procedure if necessary.
