Keeping Clothing looking new
I recently spent a small fortune on clothing for my two school age children and was wondering if there are any tips for keeping these clothes looking new.
Ahhhh! The mixed emotions of fall. A breath of relief as our kids walk out the door for school, and a tremor of fear when we add up how much their attire cost. Given the expense of new clothing, especially brand name articles, it is prudent to keep everything looking new for as long as possible.
Check the pockets. A pen, a piece of gum, or tube of lipstick can easily damage hundreds of dollars worth of clothing in the washer or dryer. If anyone has learned this lesson the hard way, they will tell you that this is the single most important part of doing laundry.
Always sort machine washable clothing into whites, darks and mixed colours.
Pretreat any stains with a stain spray or stick. In a pinch, even a bar of unscented soap can be rubbed on the stains. Always check for and repair any damaged or torn clothing before washing. It will only become more frayed or damaged in the wash.
Some clothing dyes are not colourfast, and they tend to bleed worse in hot water. Colours will usually become permanent after a wash or two, and heat drying will help accelerate this process. For deeply coloured items, and for all jeans, turn them inside out when laundering.
The pieces of clothing inside the washing machine and dryer rub against one another, damaging the surface of the fabric. This is an excellent argument to not overload your machines. New (to North America) front loading washing machines, in addition to using less power and water, also do not agitate clothing as aggressively, which results in less wear and longer useable life spans.
White fabrics contain optical brighteners, which degrade with bleach, sunlight, and age. Ironically, bleach and sunlight can actually help restore some brightness to your whites. Drying clothing in the sun will frequently lighten stains, and can help remove yellowing. While the occasional use of bleach is also helpful, frequent use will soon damage the fibers, resulting in holes and premature aging. Given all of these factors, the most common cause of poor results with whites, is simply using either too much or too little detergent. Oh, and there is also that new small red sock hidden in a white shirt that makes the whole load pink.
When laundering mixed colors always wash in cold water with similar garments. Check and understand the care labels on all of your clothing. With mixed fabrics this is even more important, as there may even be special care instructions for washing and drying!
When transferring clothes from the washer to the dryer, shake out each item, and at the same time check for stains. By shaking out the clothing, it will help prevent wrinkled messes when items ball up on themselves, and by removing and air drying stained items, it will give you a second chance at removing the stain before it is permanently heat set by the dryer.
Clothing should not be over dried. It wastes energy, and will also prematurely age the fabric. Instead of ironing clothes, try removing them from the dryer while they are still slightly damp. Give them a couple sharp shakes, and air dry them on rust proof hangers. You can’t stop your kids from growing out of their clothing, but with a little common sense, you can be sure that this is the main reason an item has to be retired.
Ink stains
Had an email asking for tips to remove ink stains from a dryer if the stains are fresh you have a better chance of removal. Heat will set the stains. Try a nail polish remover, apply directly to a white cleaning cloth and wipe. Never pour or spray directly on to the surface. Be cautious about using a solvent in general, especially if the dryer is hot or you have a gas dryer. WD-40 is another option as well, which will need to be wiped with warm soapy dish detergent and water since it has an oily residue.
Mustard
Mustard
With the summer holidays upon us we have an increase in stains and dirt especially with young kids around, or in the absence of young kids there is always alcohol to add to the extra work in the cleaning department.
Mustard is a very tough stain and requires specific and immediate action for best results. The quick tip is to rinse or blot with cold water as soon as possible.
For washable fabric pre-soak in cold water after removing as much the mustard before soaking. Then you can pre-treat the stain with ¼ teaspoon of dish soap and 1 cup of water, apply directly to fabric. Then wash in the hottest temperature safe for the fabric. If the stain doesn’t come out completely, don’t dry the item. Just pre-treat like before and re-wash. Drying will likely just set the stain, and a second try will often remove more of the stain.
Mirror Cleaning Tips:round mirror,Large mirror,convex mirror,wall mirror,standing mirror
Mirror Cleaning Tips :I recent question I received was from someone saying their mirrors always seem streaky…
Many ammonia based window cleaners can leave streaks, they can also be caused by using too much cleaning solution. Also your cleaning cloth cannot be too wet which will leave streaks as well. Spray a small amount of cleaning solution and clean with a good cotton or microfiber cleaning cloth.
I have a good home window or mirror cleaning solution is 1 cup of white vinegar per gallon of water along with a small drop of dish soap. Less expensive then a store bought cleaning solution, does a great job and is not streaky as long as you follow the above points. When cleaning vertical surfaces of any kind including windows and mirrors start from the top and work down. Remove stickers or tape with a straight razor blade. The razor blade works best for removing paint as well.
The Skinny on Brooms
Cleaning Brooms
Make your next broom your last… Some ideas to make your brooms last longer and do a better job.
1. Always use a holder to keep the broom stored off the floor or store with the broom side up. (Resting on the floor the fibers will flatten and reduce the effectiveness of the broom).
2. Comb out the fibers regularly to remove debris.
3. Brooms and dustpan can be cleaned with mild detergent and water; this is a good job for your spouse if they forget your birthday.
4. Always sweep gently in order to let the bristles do the work.
5. Push broom blocks have two handle holes (one on each side). Change the sides often so that fibers wear evenly.
6. The correct length for a broom handle is from the floor to the bridge of your nose. Remember to sweep in an upright position to prevent back fatigue.
How to clean Bed mattresses,Futon mattresses & box springs
Bed mattresses
Would you crawl into bed with a bunch of bugs? No? Well you do. Every single night. They are called dust mites, and they are everywhere. They thrive on dead skin, your dead skin. Yum. Yum. If you aren’t completely disgusted by now, check out our article on Dust Mites, to find out why they contribute to allergy problems.
In addition to these dust mites, their feces, and all that dead skin they are waiting to munch on, your bed also collects dust, lint, hairs, and other assorted debris that is floating around our homes.
Regular cleaning of your bed mattress, and the bed sheets keeps these potential allergens in check. It also will increase the life span of your sleeping habitat.
The bed mattress should be flipped over a couple times per year. It is a great idea to co-ordinate it with changing your clocks to and from day light savings time, or on Independence Day and New Years Eve, if you don’t have much of a life outside your home.
The first time flip it over side for side, and the next time flip it over end for end (A note left between the mattress can remind you which way it is suppose to be flipped). This equalizes the wear of the mattress, and minimizes peaks and valleys. It is also a good plan on “flipping day” to vacuum the entire bed mattress and box spring. If you use a plastic mattress cover, wipe it down after vacuuming with a disinfectant.
Plastic covers are a must for young children who might have a periodic bed wetting accident. If you don’t have a cover when one of these accidents happens, check out the tip in our data base on cleaning urine from a mattress.
Futon mattresses
Although thought to be owned only by starving college students, there are those of us who have grown to love our futons. Like mattresses there are dozens of different firmness levels, and methods of construction depending on the manufacturer.
Typically there is a foam core, wrapped with cotton, in a heavy cotton fabric envelope. When cleaning, you should avoid getting a futon too wet, as it takes forever, or possibly longer, to dry completely. A moist futon is a bad thing, as warm, moist, dark areas tend to grown things (like fungus and mildew) that we don’t normally want to sleep with. Stains should be removed with as little water as possible, and usually blotting with a damp rag will remove most surface stains.
Futons should be rolled up every couple of months, and allowed to stay rolled up tight for an entire day, if possible. Turning them frequently will also lengthen their useful life significantly.
Sweet dreams
School clothes washing Tips
School clothes
Summer over and the days of endless summer fun for the kids will be replaced by “where is my FUBU sweat shirt” and “who stole my Tommy fubu Jeans“. Since we are not going to get away with “I didn’t care if I had designer clothes when I was a kid” or “no one on Survivor Island wore designer clothes“. These days with clothes costing a weeks wages and a wardrobe costing a years overtime pay, here as some basics to be sure they last as long as possible or at least until the next style comes along.
1. Have three baskets or bags for sorting whites, darks and medium colors.
2. Wash heavily soiled or work clothing separately.
3. Wash similar fabrics together jeans sweat shirts, etc. and loose knits separate.
4. Wash all new clothes with dark colors separately for at least the first few times.
5. Wash lint-producing clothes together and don’t wash clothes that are damaged (rips & tears etc.). Repair them first to avoid fraying.
6. Always check and double check pockets, take the extra few minutes you will thank me if you find that errant ballpoint pen as opposed to spending 3 hours cleaning all the ink from the dryer. (I know of a “friend” who had to do this recently).
7. Have a stain pre-treatment spray or stick handy to treat stains as you are sorting. Use a bar of non-scented soap in a pinch if you have nothing else.
8. Consider using a laundry booster which will give you that extra punch just in case you miss treating any stains before washing.
9. If you can inspect your laundry as you transfer it into the dryer. Giving larger pieces a shake when transferring them will help them dry faster and more evening than an article that is all balled up on itself.
10. Hang the designer clothes up as soon as possible this will help prevent all the moaning and groaning when your little cherub gets up late and complains the jean are wrinkled. “Hey I am not going to iron your jeans no matter what you say, jeans were invented for miners and I don’t think they got their Mommy’s to iron their jeans before going out and looking for gold nuggets all day.”
Bathroom Cleaners
General Information :
Bathroom cleaners range from mild to extremely strong. A mild general purpose detergent is more than needed when cleaning is frequent. Specific problems require special formulations.
Soap-scum: a heavy build-up of soap-scum will need a more concentrated cleaner. A degreasing product will remove soap-scum and body oils quite effectively. Allow contact time for the product to emulsify the scum and remove it from the surface.
Mold and mildew: a disinfectant type product is needed to kill the micro-organisms and allow for removal. Bleach will certainly work but can be harsh for both user and surface. Other products will have a germicidal ingredient to kill mildew along with detergent, scent, foaming and/or thickening agents to cling to verticle surfaces. They will vary in effectiveness, especially on grout, which is difficult to clean even with commercial grade cleaners. Regardless, disinfection is only temporary, germs will immediately start growing again. The key is to clean frequently before mildew accumulates too much.
Mineral deposits: best prevented than removed afterward. An acid based product is most effective on mineral stains although a lot of scrubbing is usually required. Rust, calcium and lime removing products are expensive but generally perform well.
Avoid abrasive liquid and powder cleaners on acrylic tubs and showers, which scratch easily – as will metal faucets and taps.
Never mix bleach with ammonia or acid cleaners dangerous fumes can result.
Recommendation:
Most bathroom cleaners will do an adequate job on soap-scum and prevent mildew and mineral deposits from forming. Frequent cleaning is the key. For more difficult stains use a product designed for the purpose. Actual scrubbing to clean is almost unavoidable where bathrooms are concerned.
Environmentally Friendly Solution :
Simply wipe down surfaces with water and a clean cloth as often as possible to prevent build-up.
General Information :
Bathroom cleaners range from mild to extremely strong. A mild general purpose detergent is more than needed when cleaning is frequent. Specific problems require special formulations.
Soap-scum: a heavy build-up of soap-scum will need a more concentrated cleaner. A degreasing product will remove soap-scum and body oils quite effectively. Allow contact time for the product to emulsify the scum and remove it from the surface.
Mold and mildew: a disinfectant type product is needed to kill the micro-organisms and allow for removal. Bleach will certainly work but can be harsh for both user and surface. Other products will have a germicidal ingredient to kill mildew along with detergent, scent, foaming and/or thickening agents to cling to verticle surfaces. They will vary in effectiveness, especially on grout, which is difficult to clean even with commercial grade cleaners. Regardless, disinfection is only temporary, germs will immediately start growing again. The key is to clean frequently before mildew accumulates too much.
Mineral deposits: best prevented than removed afterward. An acid based product is most effective on mineral stains although a lot of scrubbing is usually required. Rust, calcium and lime removing products are expensive but generally perform well.
Avoid abrasive liquid and powder cleaners on acrylic tubs and showers, which scratch easily as will metal faucets and taps.
Never mix bleach with ammonia or acid cleaners dangerous fumes can result.
Recommendation:
Most bathroom cleaners will do an adequate job on soap-scum and prevent mildew and mineral deposits from forming. Frequent cleaning is the key. For more difficult stains use a product designed for the purpose. Actual scrubbing to clean is almost unavoidable where bathrooms are concerned.
Environmentally Friendly Solution :
Simply wipe down surfaces with water and a clean cloth as often as possible to prevent build-up.
General Information :Bathroom cleaners range from mild to extremely strong. A mild general purpose detergent is more than needed when cleaning is frequent. Specific problems require special formulations.Soap-scum: a heavy build-up of soap-scum will need a more concentrated cleaner. A degreasing product will remove soap-scum and body oils quite effectively. Allow contact time for the product to emulsify the scum and remove it from the surface.Mold and mildew: a disinfectant type product is needed to kill the micro-organisms and allow for removal. Bleach will certainly work but can be harsh for both user and surface. Other products will have a germicidal ingredient to kill mildew along with detergent, scent, foaming and/or thickening agents to cling to verticle surfaces. They will vary in effectiveness, especially on grout, which is difficult to clean even with commercial grade cleaners. Regardless, disinfection is only temporary, germs will immediately start growing again. The key is to clean frequently before mildew accumulates too much.Mineral deposits: best prevented than removed afterward. An acid based product is most effective on mineral stains although a lot of scrubbing is usually required. Rust, calcium and lime removing products are expensive but generally perform well.Avoid abrasive liquid and powder cleaners on acrylic tubs and showers, which scratch easily as will metal faucets and taps.Never mix bleach with ammonia or acid cleaners dangerous fumes can result.Recommendation:Most bathroom cleaners will do an adequate job on soap-scum and prevent mildew and mineral deposits from forming. Frequent cleaning is the key. For more difficult stains use a product designed for the purpose. Actual scrubbing to clean is almost unavoidable where bathrooms are concerned.Environmentally Friendly Solution :Simply wipe down surfaces with water and a clean cloth as often as possible to prevent build-up.
Blood Stains From A Mattress
General Info:
Blood stains can be tricky….ask O.J..
Blood is primarily a protein, which once dried is tough to get out, especially on something that you can’t toss in a washing machine or allow to soak for a few hours. Be sure to check the helpful hints for the Do’s and Don’ts of stain removal and Six Sure Ways to Set Stains.
Tools & Chemicals:
Dish washing or fine fabric detergent, white terry towels, white vinegar, warm water, measuring cup, and Hydrogen Peroxide.
Technique:
*
Work on removing the stain as soon as you notice it. The longer the stain is left on the mattress the greater the chances are of the stain setting.
*
In every case remove all excess wet or dry material before attempting to clean. Blot wet materials using a white terry towel (check helpful hints for a detailed description of blotting). First try reliquifying dried blood by applying Hydrogen Peroxide, when it begins to bubble blot up. If this does not remove the stain, try the following:
*
Seek out a local janitorial supply store and purchase an enzyme based cleaner. (these are most frequently used in some carpet spotting cleaners for food stains, feces, etc)
Start this process early in the morning, or when you will be out of town for a night, as the mattress will get wet, and it MUST be dried before replacing bed sheets.
Mix the enzyme according to the manufacturers directions in warm water, dampen an old or dark bath towel in the solution. Wring it out so it is not overly wet and place it over the stain. Allow this to sit on the stain for at least half an hour, if not longer. Remove this towel, and blot the surface of the mattress to absorb as much moisture as possible. You may need to repeat this process a few times, and you may also need to provide some agitation (a soft scrub brush) to loosen the stain.
Even with all this work there will likely be a variation in the appearance of the mattress once it has dried, but the dark stain should be lightened considerably. You should permit the mattress to dry as long as possible before using again. Even a fan or placing in the sunshine (sun will also help lighten the stain) is great! Do NOT use a hair dryer or space heater as they will set the stain forever.
If a brownish spot remains when dry, mix 1 part white vinegar and two parts water. Apply a small amount and blot. Repeat only once.
If all else fails, you can always flip over the mattress!
General Info:
Blood stains can be tricky….ask O.J..
Blood is primarily a protein, which once dried is tough to get out, especially on something that you can’t toss in a washing machine or allow to soak for a few hours. Be sure to check the helpful hints for the Do’s and Don’ts of stain removal and Six Sure Ways to Set Stains.
Tools & Chemicals:
Dish washing or fine fabric detergent, white terry towels, white vinegar, warm water, measuring cup, and Hydrogen Peroxide.
Technique:
Work on removing the stain as soon as you notice it. The longer the stain is left on the mattress the greater the chances are of the stain setting.
In every case remove all excess wet or dry material before attempting to clean. Blot wet materials using a white terry towel (check helpful hints for a detailed description of blotting). First try reliquifying dried blood by applying Hydrogen Peroxide, when it begins to bubble blot up. If this does not remove the stain, try the following:
Seek out a local janitorial supply store and purchase an enzyme based cleaner. (these are most frequently used in some carpet spotting cleaners for food stains, feces, etc)
Start this process early in the morning, or when you will be out of town for a night, as the mattress will get wet, and it MUST be dried before replacing bed sheets.
Mix the enzyme according to the manufacturers directions in warm water, dampen an old or dark bath towel in the solution. Wring it out so it is not overly wet and place it over the stain. Allow this to sit on the stain for at least half an hour, if not longer. Remove this towel, and blot the surface of the mattress to absorb as much moisture as possible. You may need to repeat this process a few times, and you may also need to provide some agitation (a soft scrub brush) to loosen the stain.
Even with all this work there will likely be a variation in the appearance of the mattress once it has dried, but the dark stain should be lightened considerably. You should permit the mattress to dry as long as possible before using again. Even a fan or placing in the sunshine (sun will also help lighten the stain) is great! Do NOT use a hair dryer or space heater as they will set the stain forever.
If a brownish spot remains when dry, mix 1 part white vinegar and two parts water. Apply a small amount and blot. Repeat only once.
If all else fails, you can always flip over the mattress!
General Info:Blood stains can be tricky….ask O.J..Blood is primarily a protein, which once dried is tough to get out, especially on something that you can’t toss in a washing machine or allow to soak for a few hours. Be sure to check the helpful hints for the Do’s and Don’ts of stain removal and Six Sure Ways to Set Stains.Tools & Chemicals:Dish washing or fine fabric detergent, white terry towels, white vinegar, warm water, measuring cup, and Hydrogen Peroxide.Technique:*Work on removing the stain as soon as you notice it. The longer the stain is left on the mattress the greater the chances are of the stain setting.*In every case remove all excess wet or dry material before attempting to clean. Blot wet materials using a white terry towel (check helpful hints for a detailed description of blotting). First try reliquifying dried blood by applying Hydrogen Peroxide, when it begins to bubble blot up. If this does not remove the stain, try the following:*Seek out a local janitorial supply store and purchase an enzyme based cleaner. (these are most frequently used in some carpet spotting cleaners for food stains, feces, etc)Start this process early in the morning, or when you will be out of town for a night, as the mattress will get wet, and it MUST be dried before replacing bed sheets.Mix the enzyme according to the manufacturers directions in warm water, dampen an old or dark bath towel in the solution. Wring it out so it is not overly wet and place it over the stain. Allow this to sit on the stain for at least half an hour, if not longer. Remove this towel, and blot the surface of the mattress to absorb as much moisture as possible. You may need to repeat this process a few times, and you may also need to provide some agitation (a soft scrub brush) to loosen the stain.Even with all this work there will likely be a variation in the appearance of the mattress once it has dried, but the dark stain should be lightened considerably. You should permit the mattress to dry as long as possible before using again. Even a fan or placing in the sunshine (sun will also help lighten the stain) is great! Do NOT use a hair dryer or space heater as they will set the stain forever.If a brownish spot remains when dry, mix 1 part white vinegar and two parts water. Apply a small amount and blot. Repeat only once.If all else fails, you can always flip over the mattress!
Cleaning Acids from Carpets
General Info:
Be sure to check the helpful hints for the Do’s and Don’ts of stain removal and Six Sure Ways to Set Stains.
Tools & Chemicals:
Ammonia (household strength),dish washing or fine fabric detergent, white terry towels, white vinegar, warm water, measuring cup, spoon.
Technique:
- Work on removing the stain as soon as you notice it. The longer the stain is left on the carpet the greater the chances are of the stain setting.
- In every case remove all excess wet or dry material before attempting to clean. Blot wet materials using a white terry towel (check helpful hints for a detailed description of blotting). Vacuum excess dry materials or gently scrape up materials with a spoon.
- Mix 2 tablespoon of HOUSEHOLD ammonia in one(1) cup of water.
- Apply a small amount of the mixed solution to the white terry towel and blot on the stain. Continue intil no further transfer of the stain is apparent. If the stain remains proceed to the next step.
- Mix 1/2 tsp. of dish washing soap or fine fabric detergent into 1 (8 oz.)cup of warm water.
- Apply a small amount, blot or tamp and repeat until the stain is removed. Be patient. Complete removal may reqiure repeating the same step several times. Tamp down on the carpet, do not scrub as this may distort the texture of the pile.
- Cover the stain with the towel and press down repeatedly to absorb the stain material and detergent.
- Once the stain is completely removed, rinse the area with cold water; blot with a dry white terry towel until all moisture is removed. Repeat this process several times to remove cleaning solution residue. (Residue can attract soils).
- If the spot or stain turns brownish when dry, mix 1 part white vinegar and two parts water. Apply a small amount and blot. Repeat only once.
Precautions:
Never use a stronger concentration than is recommended.
Never use laundry detergent or automatic dish washing detergents because they may destroy or dye some fibers.Industrial strength ammonia should be mixed according to manufacture recommendations.
