...

Category: Home Interior Tips

Posted on

Clean Sheets

There is something so delightful about sliding into crisp clean cotton bed sheets on a fresh spring evening or snuggling down into cozy soft flannel sheets on a cold snowy winter night. The scent of sheets that have been air dried on the outdoor clothesline in the sunshine brings back memories for me of sleeping over at Gramma’s house. A comfortable bed with clean linens is truly one of life’s little pleasures. So what is the best way to clean and care for bed sheets?

Firstly, sort your sheets by color. Even though you are only sleeping on them, it is nicer to have clean white sheets, not dull gray ones. Using warm or hot water, wash white cotton sheets separately with regular detergent. Do not use too much detergent. Less is better for sheets. Wash dark colored sheets together in warm water. If you wish to bleach your white sheets, use an oxygen-based bleach or natural whitening alternatives like vinegar or lemon juice mixed with water.

In the spring and summer, let your sheets and pillowcases air dry outside. Either hang them on a clothesline if you have one, or you may even lay your sheets on the grass. Be sure the grass is clean! Did you know that sunshine naturally sanitizes and brightens white sheets?

In the winter, tumble dry your sheets on warm in the dryer with a sheet of fabric softener. (If you are drying only a couple of sheets, you may want to toss in a few clean tennis balls which will help keep your sheets from twisting up together.)

The best way to store your bed linens is to keep them in a dry, airy closet on shelves that allow air through, or on shelves with scented paper. Try not to cram too many bed sheets and linens together so that no air can circulate around them. Don’t leave linens folded up in a closet or packed away for extended periods of time because the fabric will deteriorate along the creases.

Follow these simple hints on linen care to make your bed a wonderful place to be.

Posted on

Keep your vacuum odor free

Lately, we have received many requests for information about what to do about odors that occur when one uses their vacuum. Understand that just due to the nature of what a vacuum is used for – namely picking up and storing dirt & dust – it is not realistic to expect a vacuum to be completely odor free (especially as it gets older).

However, there are some simple, effective procedures you can follow that will go a long way to keeping this problem under control:

1) Make sure that all the filters in the vacuum are clean or, if necessary, replaced if needed. Dirty, moist filters are an excellent medium for the growth of mold, mildew and other odor sources.

2) Look at the dust bag or dirt cup. Often they have never been washed or cleaned even after years of use. Certainly smells will emit from any area where dirt & dust are collected. Even the use of new paper filter bags can’t prevent some residue from collecting in the compartment they reside in. Take some time to wash out – with mild detergent and water – the unit’s dust bag or dirt cup. **Make absolutely sure any component of your vacuum it completely dry before using. **

3) If you have an upright vacuum or a power-head the roller brush and fan chamber may need to be wiped out and all debris removed. Do what you are comfortable with; ie.,clean the parts you know you can easily put back together. (Many vacuums are designed for easy access to the beater bar and fan chamber). At very least you can wipe down the underside of the vacuum.

4) Check out any hoses and attachments. Do they need cleaning? Removable pieces can be washed in a sink of soap & water. DO NOT soak hoses that have a power line within them. These and permanently affixed hoses can be cleaned with a slightly damp cloth attached to a pole.

5) Finally, there are available several products that can be added to your vacuuming process that lesson odors and add a scent to freshen the air. Our favorite is an environmentally friendly blend which you sprinkle a tablespoon on your carpet and vacuum into a freshly changed filter bag or emptied dirt cup. There are several pleasant scents that last till the next bag change.

We hope that these steps help with any vacuum source odors you may have. Remember to always unplug your vacuum before ever working on it. Also, since most odors in your home originate from your carpet, your vacuum reflects how clean your carpets are.

Posted on

Candle Wax Stains from Linoleum Floors

“How can I remove candle wax stain from a linoleum floor ? “

Try these techniques :

I would hope that you have first tried to remove as much of the residual wax as possible with a scraper or putty knife. If a stain remains after you have scrapped the area, it’s usually an indication that the offending material has penetrated into the residual wax finish. Worse yet, there is a chance that the stain has traveled through into floor covering or linoleum.

There are cases where I have found problems dealing with issues such as this. Where the floor material is battleship linoleum, and has very little sealer or wax on the area where the stain occurred. Often the stain will travel so far into the linoleum it leaches down to the sub floor and becomes permanent.

The only way I can see you removing the stain at this point, is to thoroughly strip the floor with a good quality wax stripper. Your best chance of finding a high quality product is at a janitorial supply, as the products they sell are used by professionals. You can often get support in resolving your cleaning problems, as well as directions on the proper use of product. It’s important to follow the directions on the product you choose, and to ensure that the area is immersed with the stripping solution and allowed time to dissolve the offending stain.

Some agitation with a scrub brush, synthetic pad or very fine steel wool is usually required along with the stripping solution to penetrate the wax layers and build up. There are also products available that require very little agitation. Be careful not to scrub too vigorously over the stained area, as you can wear away the top layer or factory finish of the flooring material. This will leave you with an area that is off colored from the remainder of the floor, and be just as unsightly as the original stain.

Posted on

How to clean Chandeliers

General Information:
To clean chandeliers, there is an easy way and a not so easy way. The not so easy way may be necessary if there is a heavy accumulation of grime, or if the chandelier is located near a kitchen where grease might soil the surface. Both methods require you safely be able to access the fixture. Many newer chandeliers, and commercial units are installed on a winch that can raise or lower the unit with the turn of a switch.

Tools & Technique
The easy way requires the power to the unit to be off. It is a good idea to turn off the breaker to be certain.
Using small plastic bags, cover each light fixture and secure with elastic bands.
Mix a spray of warm water and rubbing alcohol in a 10-1 ratio.
Place a heavy towel under the chandelier, and spray the mixture onto every crystal.
Allow the fixture to drip dry, there shouldn’t be any streaks and the crystals should sparkle like new.
Allow the whole unit to dry for 24 hours before restoring power.

The hard way is similar, only harder. Much harder.
Remove 10 or 12 crystals at a time, any more than this and you run the real risk of having a much different looking chandelier by the time you are finished.
Dip each crystal individually into a bucket of the same mixture. For greasy films, add a few drops of dish washing soap.
Rinse each crystal individually. Then lay out each on a terry towel.
Polish each crystal and return it to its place on the chandelier.
These crystals will break, and chip each other so dip and rinse only one at a time, and try using a clear bucket so you can see what you are doing.
This is very labor intensive, and once you start you are committed to finish because the dirty crystals look like hazy chunks of plastic next to the clean and polished ones.

Posted on

Spring Air Conditioners

This should be done every month while the unit is being used regularly:

Air conditioners may cool your body, but if you’re not careful they can burn your pocketbook. To make sure your window unit is running at its most efficient, unplug it and open it up for inspection. Immediately inside the air conditioner’s grille, you’ll find a filter, which should be cleaned regularly with soap and water, or replaced if it’s ripped or otherwise damaged. Just behind the filter lie the evaporator fins, which frequently get layered with dust; simply vacuum them off. Now, put the unit back together and go back to “thinking cool thoughts,” legendary pitcher/pundit Satchel Paige’s cure for hot weather.

Courtesy of True Value Hardware

If the unit is very dirty, or has not been serviced for several seasons, it may require a more thorough cleaning.

Remove it from wall sleeve or if smaller unit remove complete a/c unit.If it does not have a sleeve remove all screws to remove outer casing.

Use good duct tape to seal all switches on front of unit. Use plastic to cover fan motor and duct tape plastic into place. Spray evaporator coil and condenser coil with garden hose, and let water drain for a couple minutes. Next spray oven general purpose cleaner on evaporation coil and condenser coil. Let it set for 20 minutes and then rinse it clean. It will be necessary to do the same with the evaporator blower wheel. Keep in mind that the air flow on the condenser may be from blades through the back of the unit, instead of through the condenser towards compressor.

If the fan motor has oil ports, remove the caps after cleaning and place 10 drops of oil into opening, then re-install caps back into position. It is best to blow out all components with compressed air afterwards. Let unit sit for 24 hours to dry before using.

Air Conditioning and Cooling Info for DoItYourselfers

It might surprise you to know that buying a bigger room air conditioning unit won’t necessarily make you feel more comfortable during the hot summer months. In fact, a room air conditioner that’s too big for the area it is supposed to cool will perform less efficiently and less effectively than a smaller, properly sized unit.

This is because room units work better if they run for relatively long periods of time than if they are continually, switching off and on. Longer run times allow air conditioners to maintain a more constant room temperature. Running longer also allows them to remove a larger amount of moisture from the air, which

lowers humidity and, more importantly, makes you feel more comfortable.

Sizing is equally important for central air-conditioning systems, which need to be sized by professionals. If you have a central air system in your home, set the fan to shut off at the same time as the cooling unit (compressor). In other words, don’t use the system’s central fan to provide circulation, but instead use circulating fans in individual rooms.

Cooling Tips

Whole-house fans help cool your home by pulling cool air through the house and exhausting warm air through the attic. They are effective when operated at night and when the outside air is cooler than the inside.

Set your thermostat as high as comfortably possible in the summer. The less difference between the indoor and outdoor temperatures, the lower your overall cooling bill will be. Don’t set your thermostat at a colder setting than normal when you turn on your air conditioner. It will not cool your home any faster and could result in excessive cooling and, therefore, unnecessary expense.

Set the fan speed on high except in very humid weather. When it’s humid, set the fan speed on low. You’ll get better cooling, and slower air movement through the cooling equipment allows it to remove more moisture from the air, resulting in greater comfort.

Consider using an interior fan in conjunction with your window air conditioner to spread the cooled air more effectively through your home without greatly increasing your power use.

Don’t place lamps or TV sets near your air-conditioning thermostat. The thermostat senses heat from these appliances, which can cause the air conditioner to run longer than necessary.

Plant trees or shrubs to shade air-conditioning units but not to block the airflow. A unit operating in the shade uses as much as 10% less electricity than the same one operating in the sun.

Tips for Lowering Your Central Air Conditioner’s Energy Usage

Set your thermostat at 78 F or higher. Each degree setting below 78 F will increase energy consumption by approximately 8%.

Be careful, however, that if you’re A/C is oversized the diminished run-time from raising the thermostat setting may result in too-high indoor humidity in some locations.

Use bath and kitchen fans sparingly when the air conditioner is operating to avoid pulling warm, moist air into your home. Inspect and clean both the indoor and outdoor coils.

he indoor coil in your air conditioner acts as a magnet for dust because it is constantly wetted during the cooling season. Dirt build-up on the indoor coil is the single most common cause of poor efficiency.

The outdoor coil must also be checked periodically for dirt build-up and cleaned if necessary.

Check the refrigerant charge. The circulating fluid in your air conditioner is a special refrigerant gas that is put in when the system is installed. If the system is overcharged or undercharged with refrigerant, it will not work properly. You will need a service contractor to check the fluid and adjust it appropriately.

Reduce the cooling load by using cost-effective conservation measures. For example, effectively shade east and west windows. When possible, delay heat-generating activities, such as cooking and dishwashing, until evening on hot days.

Over most of the cooling season, keep the house closed tight during the day. Don’t let in unwanted heat and humidity. Ventilate at night either naturally or with fans.

Why Buy An Energy Efficient Room Air Conditioner?

High-efficiency room air conditioners save money on your utility bills. High-efficiency room air conditioners result in fewer environmentally harmful emissions. An average air conditioned home consumes more than 2000 kilowatt-hours of electricity per year for cooling, causing about 3,500 pounds of carbon dioxide and 31 pounds of sulfur dioxide to be emitted by the power plant.

At average electricity prices, that costs about $150.

A high-efficiency A/C unit can reduce energy consumption (and environmental emissions) by 20% to 50%. The most efficient air conditioners on the market are up to 70% more efficient than the current average room air conditioner.

Posted on

Writing on the walls…

Are your children budding artists?

If your children have decided to use the bedroom walls to create their latest crayon masterpieces, you’ll get excellent results by dipping a damp rag into baking soda and then using that mixture to scrub it off.  Its the home remedy that my Grandma used.

Although a quicker way is to use a Magic Eraser, which, as a professional cleaner for the past 20 years, in my opinion is one the best cleaning products I have seen for quick cleanups. WD-40 does work very well at removing crayon marks, however you have to clean off the oily residue after with soapy water.

Posted on

Built in vacuum plugged? Make it suck again.

Built in vacuums are great. They have many advantages over tradition vacuums, in that they are more powerful, require emptying less often, deliver dust AWAY from the main living areas, and the hose is light and easy to use on stairs and in tight corners.

There are some dis-advantages too. Because they need emptying less frequently, they often don’t get emptied at all! And because they are more powerful, some people try to suck up everything from pine cones to toys to small family pets. And that long hose? All it takes is an errant piece of stalk from a Wisk broom to start clogging everything up. These problems often create another big disadvantage, which is when the vacuum does get blocked up, there is often no easy way to clean out the system.

vacuumThe first task is to determine if the blockage is in the main vacuum canister itself, in the PVC piping, or in the hose or attachment. The first thing to check is the main vacuum canister, usually located in the basement, garage, or utility room. Is the bag full? Empty it to be sure and get the maximum suction. Is the vacuum portion of the unit sealed tight? Are there evident blocks in the PVC pipe that lead into the canister?

Try turning the vacuum on with the manual switch at the canister, and then open the closest hose receptacle to the main unit. If there is strong suction, try plugging in the attachment hose. If there is no suction on the hose, then the hose itself is where your blockage can be found.

Usually, by plugging in the hose, and going down the length of the hose, bending and jiggling it, one will dislodge the debris that is caught. Be sure the hose is plugged in, and the vacuum is on, so the debris will be sucked out as you dislodge it. If this does not work, get a broom handle (or similar thick piece of round wood) and insert it in one end of the hose. Pull the hose together over the stick, then pull it off the other end. Continue doing this to push the stick through the hose.

If your hose is clear and the blockage is not on the first hose receptacle, check each receptacle further away or on the levels above to try to determine where the blockage is. Once you determine where the block is, use a residential size plumbing snake or an electricians fish wire to poke the debris in the PVC piping. Turn on the vacuum unit using the manual ON/OFF switch on the unit – or plug the hose into another outlet to turn the vacuum on.. The suction of the vacuum will help pull away the debris as you poke the blockage. If this is not successful, and if you.have a crawl space, it will make access to most of your system very easy. You will find that the PVC pipe should NOT have been glued together, which usually makes for easy disassembly, however runs up interior walls to higher floors will still be inaccessible.

If the blockage is not in the PVC piping, the hose, or in the canister unit, you will need to contact the manufacturer or distributor to have a technician check out your system.

Posted on

Blood from fabric quick tips

Blood is one of those stains that responds best when acted on quickly for best results. Blot stain with cold water, then rinse with cold water. If stain remains then blot using water and a little dish soap. Flush thoroughly with cool water. If the stain is still present soak in an enzyme based spotter like shout and flush thoroughly with water. Heat will set this stain.

Posted on

Home made furniture cleaner

Most furniture polishes contain hazardous ingredients, such as flammable respiratory irritants and butane and the skin and eye irritant d-limonene.

Here is a homemade wood polish that will save you money and is healthier for your family.

¼ cup distilled white vinegar or lemon juice

a few drops of jojoba oil or olive oil

3-5 drop of a fragrant essential oil (optional)

The essential oil can be personalized to taste, an antiseptic essential oil is best. Sweet eucalyptus is a clean fresh summer scent. Vinegar has a longer shelf life than lemon oil.

Posted on

Central Air Conditioning

Exterior Evaporator Unit

Turn off the electrical power to the outside condenser/compressor unit.

Cut weeds, grass and bushes within 24 inches of your condenser unit.  Vacuum the fins on the exterior of the condenser unit with a soft brush. Vacuum around the entire unit to remove any leaves and other debris that has built up in or around the fins.  Using a dinner knife or a specialized fin comb to gently apply pressure to damaged or bent fins and straighten them out. Don’t insert the knife more than a half inch into the fins or you risk damaging the coils inside.  Remove the fan from the top of your condenser/compressor unit by unscrewing the top grille. Lift the fan out and manually remove any leaves or debris that have collected inside the unit.  A vacuum might be the easiest option, but use extreme caution to NOT damage any of the components with the steel vacuum wand.  Wipe down the inside of the unit with a damp cloth. Use a garden hose to spray the fins from the inside out, using a fair amount of water pressure. Place the fan back in the unit and fasten the screws to secure the top.  Turn the power back on and set your indoor thermostat to “Cool” to allow the compressor unit to cycle on.

Interior Evaporator Unit

Turn off the power to your furnace before you start cleaning the indoor evaporator unit.

Open the main blower compartment of your furnace and remove the filter. If it’s disposable, replace it with a new one. If it’s reusable, place it in a tub and cover it with water and add a little laundry detergent to create some suds and let it soak for about 15 minutes. Rinse with a shower head from both sides and allow to air dry before re-installing the filter back in the furnace unit.  Use a vacuum with a soft brush attachment to suck up any dust in the blower compartment. If the motor has lubrication ports, add a few drops of electric motor oil into each port to keep them running smoothly.  Locate the plastic condensation drain tube and pull it off the drain port. If there is algae growth inside, mix one part bleach and 16 parts water into a solution and pour it into the tube. If flushing doesn’t remove the dirt, replace the tube.  Clean grime and dirt out of the drain port with a pipe cleaner. Put the drain tube back onto the port and turn your main power switch back on.  Give yourself about a half day to clean your air conditioning unit if you’re doing it for the first time.  Try to clean your air conditioning unit when the temperature is about 60 degrees Fahrenheit so you can be certain it will cycle on once the cleaning is complete.  Consult your owner’s manual for any special cleaning instructions that apply to your unit.

error

Enjoy this website? Please spread the word :)

Facebook
Twitter
Instagram
Follow by Email
RSS