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Category: Floors

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How to Clean Marble Surfaces

How to Clean Marble Bathrooms, Floors, Tables, Tiles, Countertops and Other Fixtures

You may wonder why there are special techniques used in the care and maintenance of marble. I mean, it’s a rock, right? True, but some stones are softer than others.

Marble is basically limestone that has combined and metamorphosed with other natural elements, making it a relatively soft rock that’s filled with veins of various colors and patterns.

Just like limestone, marble is easily etched, stained, and dulled. It’s more sensitive to certain foods and chemicals, and is not as impervious or as hard and resistant as granite.

Yet marble is very durable, and with proper care, it will last forever.

how to clean marble
How to Clean Marble

Below you’ll find tips and information for the following:

  • Marble Sealers
  • Marble Maintenance
  • Proper Cleaning Solutions
  • How To Do Everyday Cleaning
  • Cleaning Marble Floors
  • Deeper Cleaning
  • Disinfecting
  • How To Clean Up Spills
  • Polishing

This may seem like a lot, but after you’ve learned a few simple cleaning and maintenance techniques, it becomes almost second nature, just like how you treat wood, cashmere or leather can become routine.

Please allow me to preclude the cleaning tips with a few care tips for new marble, because you should follow them before you clean new marble.

1. Marble Sealers

Immediately after your marble is installed, or after a thorough cleaning and ample drying time for older marble installations, you will sometimes want to apply a sealer to your marble for added protection.

Applying a sealant is pretty easy, and the cost and time involved is minimal when considering how proper marble care helps you avoid damage and expensive marble repair, as well as how it keeps your marble floors and countertops looking gorgeous for years on end.

How a Sealer Works – The sealing products you see used in the stone mason industry are actually impregnators, not sealers. They act more as a repellent. So don’t think a sealer will prevent all stain and damage to your marble. However, an impregnating sealer is often recommended, as it will greatly reduce marble stains from spills that are wiped up immediately.

Sealers Do Not Totally Prevent Scratches or Stains. Sealing does not make the stone stain proof, rather it makes the stone more stain resistant.

Sealing will not prevent scratches or etching (chemical etching often occurs due to acidic substances, such as household cleaners and acidic foods).

Choose the Proper Sealer – Use a high quality sealer made specifically for stone or marble. There are many out there, and it might be hard to know which ones will do the best job at penetrating the stone or which lasts the longest. We personally recommend sealers like SenGuard or Stone Care to help protect your marble.

For kitchen counters, be sure your sealer is non-toxic and safe for use in food preparation areas.

2. Marble Maintenance

Efflorescence – For I newly installed marble, you might see a white powder that appear on the surface. This is normal, and harmless. It’s just mineral salt deposits brought up through the stone as the water in the stone evaporates.

how to clean marble
How to Clean Marble Countertops

You can vacuum or dust mop the powder, but don’t use water to remove the powder, as that will the stone longer to dry out and finish evaporating its own moisture.

You may have to do this many times until the stone permanently dries out, but if the efflorescence problem persists for more than two months, contact the installer to determine if there isn’t something else causing the moisture.

Protect Marble From Scratches. No sharp objects. Don’t scoot or set sharp-edged objects directly on marble.

Use coasters, trivets and mats. Use coasters for glasses, trivets or placemats for plates, and mats for appliances on marble countertops. This not only prevents scratches, but prevents damage from heat, or etching caused by spills of acidic drinks such as orange juice or alcohol. To keep it simple, just treat your marble like nice wood, and use coasters.

Use padding. Use padding under table legs and chairs. No heavy objects on thin marble. Don’t stand or sit on your marble countertops or tables. Too much weight can cause a crack on thinner marbles, like that used for countertops.

Use vanity trays. Place toiletries such as hand soaps, toothpaste, lotions, perfumes, etc., on a decorative bathroom vanity tray. This protect from scratches, as well as etching caused by chemicals in hygiene products, and may even prevent stains from those products, as well. Such a bathroom vanity tray will not only protect your marble bathroom sink counter area, but you’ll feel like you’re in a fancy hotel with posh decor.

Use floor mats, area rugs and hallway runners near every entrance, as well as any high traffic area where you have marble tile floors. This helps minimize scratches from dirt, sand and grit. Of course, make sure your rugs are slip-resistant.

3. Proper Cleaning Solutions

Many common household cleaners contain alkalis, acids, and chemicals that can damage or etch your countertop surface, as well as thin and dissolve the sealant, which leaves your marble vulnerable to damage from stains.

Cleaning marble with your typical brand name or generic household cleaners, and even natural cleaners, is the most common cause of marble damage.

Don’t use ammonia, vinegar, orange or lemon for cleaning. Although vinegar is a good cleaning agent and disinfectant for many surfaces, it is acidic, as are the other items mentioned, and they can cause corrosive etching on your marble.

And definitely don’t use the average bathroom, grout cleaner, or tub and tile type cleaners. These often use abrasives that can dull and even scratch the surface of your marble.

Many rust removers that are commercially available, such as toilet bowl cleaners and laundry rust stain removers, contain trace amounts of hydrofluoric acid (HF). The silicates and other minerals in your marble will be attacked by the HF acid and deteriorate them.

So What Do You Use To Clean Marble?

I’ve heard it said that you simply use hot water and a sponge for daily cleaning, and once a week use a stone cleaner. However, that seems to me like it applies just to floors or areas that don’t need to be sterile. Some disinfecting tips are listed below.

  • Whatever you do, only use cleaning products specifically formulated for cleaning marble and you will save yourself the headache and hassle of costly and time-consuming re-polishing or repairs.
  • There are many marble cleaning products on the market, but four brands that have proven to be better than most are Marble Life, SCI, Miracle and Stone Tech). They all offer great quality and value.

4. How To Do Everyday Cleaning

Whatever cleaner you use, make sure you use it with a sponge, soft cloth, chamois, or dust mop. Don’t scrub because you will spread bits of dirt and sand around, which could scratch the marble.

how to clean marble
How to Clean Marble Floors

Run the damp sponge or cloth gently over the surface while making a circular motion in any spots that might need a extra pressure. Thoroughly rinse the surface after washing, and be sure to change the rinse water frequently when cleaning larger or extra-dirty surfaces.

Don’t leave either pools of water or even a slight layer of moisture to dry on the marble to prevent stains and scum build-up. Use a soft, dry cloth to dry all the marble surfaces after you’ve cleaned them. Then buff it with a second dry cloth for a nice shine. (See below for more polishing tips.)

5. Cleaning Marble Floors

Dust mop floors made with marble tile on a regular basis. Unless you plan to eat off your floor, the only cleaners you need to use to clean your marble regularly are hot water for daily cleaning and a specially formulated stone cleaner once a week.

Use a non-treated, dry, clean, dust-mop. Be extra careful if you use a vacuum cleaner because grit jammed in the wheels or ragged, worn parts can scratch the surface. So be sure the wheels are not rough, and that the plastic or metal attachments or in good shape, preferably with soft bristles that are not worn.

6. Deeper Cleaning

You can get a deeper cleaning with a light, natural soap, or take some gentle dish soap and dilute it yourself, as the suds help remove dirt particles trapped in the marble pores.

Similar to any item cleaned in your home, an excessive concentration of cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks, so use it sparingly and buff it with a soft cloth afterwards for a beautiful shine.

Tip: Minimize soap scum in commonly wet areas, such as the bathroom, by using a squeegee after each use. You can also look for a non-acidic soap scum remover specifically designed for marble.

Of course, we want to disinfect surfaces in the bathroom, kitchen I and other areas, and areas such as hot tubs and pools sometimes attract algae, moss and mold. So go ahead and flush the area with plain water and use a mild bleach solution to thoroughly sterilize an area.

7. Disinfecting

There are commercial cleaners available that are specifically made for marble, that will disinfect and won’t harm your marble. But if you’re in a pinch and need to disinfect something right away, there are common household items you can use.

  • Hydrogen Peroxide – Mold is common in bathroom tile grout and can be a serious health concern. To get rid of the mold, mix one part 3% hydrogen peroxide with two parts water and spray on the effected areas. Wait an hour before rinsing or showering. It does act like a bleach in that it will lighten darker marbles (and can bleach your clothes, or hair, etc.) so it’s best for lighter color marble surfaces.
  • Vinegar or Ammonia – Bleach is not the only solution. I know I mentioned how ammonia and vinegar should be avoided because they can hurt your marble. But if you need to disinfect your marble and can’t wait to find a better cleaner, then you can use ammonia OR vinegar on occasion. Just don’t get in the habit of it, as it really will dull and etch your marble. But as long as you use a low concentration, rinse well with plain water, buff it well afterwards, and use a polish, and don’t use it too often, then it shouldn’t harm your marble. DANGER: do not EVER mix bleach with vinegar, or ammonia and bleach, or ammonia and vinegar, etc. Use each one separately. Mixing any of them together causes harmful gases that will damage your lungs and the lungs of those around you.
  • Bleach – Bleach is toxic and should be a last resort. Also, bleach can lighten darker marbles, but it is an effective disinfectant for lighter marbles if used properly. To kill common bacteria and regular disinfecting of food related surfaces, use unscented, regular 5% to 6% household bleach, as recommended by The Center for Disease Control (CDC, an American government regulatory agency) at a ratio of 1 tsp bleach per gallon of water. For common disinfecting of all other surfaces, use 1 Cup of bleach per 5 gallons of water. And to kill mold and mildew that has already gotten a foothold, use 1 Cup of bleach per one (1) gallon of water.

8. How To Clean Up Spills

Marble can become stained or etched quickly if a liquid or even dry powders sit on it for even a short period of time. Especially clean up wet spills like coffee, any type of black tea, orange juice, and wine immediately after they are spilled.

Dry spills are serious, too. Materials with staining pigments, such as curry, cumin, coffee grounds, and even leafy greens, should be gently vacuumed or swept up right away when they’re spilled on any marble surface.

How to Clean Up a Spill – Blot. Flush. Dab. Repeat. Blot up spills with a paper towel immediately. Don’t rub as you wipe the area, or it it will push the spilled substance into the pores of the marble as well as spread the spill. Flush the area with mild soap or cleaner of your choice, or even just plain water, and rinse several times. Thoroughly dry the area with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary.

8. Polishing

After each cleaning, after you’ve dried the marble, give it a quick buff with a soft cloth. This helps remove cleaning solution residues and gives your marble a shiny glow. There are also commercial marble polishes available. Just make sure it’s intended specifically for marble. Not all stone is the same, so it’s best to avoid cleaners made for granite or even for cleaning ”stone” in general.

Stone PLUS Cleaner has received rave reviews for its effectiveness on marble.

A spray surface dressing, such as Dazzle Topical Polish Shine Enhancer, will improve the shine and give your marble a little more protection.

Polishing a marble floor can make a very slippery surface when wet, so take precaution when other people may walk on those floors shortly after you’ve polished them.

Marble is so gorgeous, with luxurious beauty, that it is well worth the time it takes to learn and apply these few marble care tips.

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Cleaning Hardwood Floors

Cleaning Hardwood Floors

Your hardwood floor is installed. There is no flooring that looks as comfortable or luxurious as a beautiful hardwood floor.  How do you care for and clean Hardwood flooring? It is an investment you certainly want to protect. Most major stores will have hardwood floor basics for equipment and supplies for cleaning hardwood floors.  You may find some specialty pieces of equipment at flooring stores.

Floor mats are essential when it comes to cleaning hardwood floors. Tiny particles, like dirt, can act like sandpaper and scratch your wood. A floor mat at each entryway and having family members and guests to wipe their feet, the majority of dirt and grime will remain on the mat. Having a good mat before and after you go in your home goes a long way to trap the dirt before you enter the house.  Try and use over sized mats where you can and regularly sweep or vacuum them as well. Also put a floor mat or rug in any area where water could be splashed  like near the kitchen sink. This will hinder any possible water damage.

Note that rubber-backed or non-ventilated floor mats or rugs can damage your floor. Instead use floor mats or rugs made especially for hardwood floors or use hardwood floor pads under the mat.  It is pretty important to keep under the mats clean as well a build up of dirt and the movement of the mat will cause damage to the floors.

Cleaning Hardwood Floors
Cleaning Hardwood Floors

The more frequently you clean the easier it is to keep your hardwood floors clean, and the better care you take, the longer your floor will maintain its original beauty. Step one is to purchase a high quality broom so that you can sweep your floor regularly of dirt, dust and other particles.

Second step is a vacuum cleaner without a beater bar, to get in between the boards and other hard to reach areas.  Be sure your vacuum tool is always in good repair and the brushes are good, once they wear you don’t want the actual tool to start scratching the hardwood floors.

Deeper cleaning techniques vary depending on the installation and finish of your hardwood floor. For Finish in Place hardwood floors, using an 8x14 terrycloth mop with a rotating head that makes cleaning corners, under cabinets and along base boards as simple. In any case always use very little water this is why standard mops not recommended to clean hardwood floors.  A flat hardwood floor mop leaves little space for water and is always best.

Professional cleaning products recommended by your flooring retailer can be used to remove tough stains and spills without dulling the finish of your wood floor. Makers of Pre-finished floors recommend their own specific products for routine maintenance. Check with your retailer for details.

Do and Don’ts

Don’t wax a wood floor with a urethane finish

Do use cleaners that won’t leave a film or residue

Don’t use ammonia cleaners or oil soaps on a wood floor they’ll dull the finish and affect your ability to recoat later.

Do use a professional hardwood floor cleaner to remove occasional scuffs and heel marks (just spray some cleaner on a cloth and rub the stained area lightly)

Don’t wet mop or use excessive water to clean your floor (wood naturally expands when it’s wet and can cause your floor to crack or splinter).

Do clean sticky spots with a damp towel or sponge

Do minimize water exposure and clean spills immediately

If and when your hardwood floor begins to look like it belongs beneath the feet of gold miners in an old western saloon, it’s time to consider screening and re-coating.

Screening is the process used to abrade or grind down your floors polyurethane finish. Next, fresh coats of urethane are applied. The result is a rejuvenated floor that looks as good as the day it was installed!

If the damage to your hardwood floor is severe, then you may require sanding and refinishing. This process involves sanding your floor down to the bare wood and refinishing it. Only go to this effort if screening and re-coating doesn’t solve your problem. Replacement boards may be available so you don’t have to refinish the entire area. Be sure to go pro whenever you have work done on your hardwood floors!

Final Thoughts

All hardwood floors fade or change shades over time. Like our own skin, woods exposure to sunlight may greatly increase this process and cause permanent damage.

Window treatments are recommended to shade your floors from the suns harsh rays. We also recommend rotating area rugs and furniture regularly, allowing wood floors to age evenly from UV exposure.

To avoid permanent marks and scratches, it’s a good idea to cover furniture and table legs with flannel protectors. Be careful when moving heavy objects across your floor to avoid scuffing.

Ladies your stiletto heels may be fashionable, but what’s not in fashion (or covered by your warranty) are the dents and scratches they cause to wood floors. I had a friend who held a big dinner party after installing new hardwood floors only to wake up to hundreds of little dents in his brand new (and now not so perfect) hardwood floors. So have a dinner party but keep it casual, nothing fancy. Likewise, trim your pets nails regularly and keep any and all other sharp objects don’t walk with scissors is a good rule always) away from your floors.

Follow these basic tips for clean hardwood floors that stand the test of time for years to come.

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Tile Cleaning

 Tile Cleaning

Tile cleaning can be a chore and the techniques you would use can vary depending on the type of tile you have.  I will list several types of tiles here and discuss some basic tips for tile cleaning of the various types of tiles.

With many colors, textures, tiles sizes, and materials of excellent durability qualities available, in most cases tiles are easy to maintain and clean.  The bigger challenge in most cases is the cleaning of the grout. https://www.howtocleananything.com/general-cleaning-tips/grout-cleaning/

Tile Cleaning
Tile Cleaning

Marble, Travertine

Smooth, hard, cool to the touch and beautifully patterned, marble flooring, travertine and limestone offer the classic look of elegance and create a very luxurious effect.

Available in a wide variety of colors, especially earth tones, and often imitated by other types of tile like ceramic and porcelain.

Marble, limestone and travertine are calcite-based stones and have similar properties when it comes to care and cleaning. Marble is relatively simple to maintain once you know how.

Most problems are simple to solve, however, sealing may be necessary to protect against staining. Using the proper cleaning products requires a little more care and work, but it is a must… the results is a terrific looking floors

Extremely durable and versatile, marble, travertine or limestone floor tile can be used anywhere in your home, even your patio, but are particularly suitable for bathrooms, showers, hallways and formal living areas…

Etching in marble may be a concern, and when it comes to cleaning, using the proper product for marble is a MUST! Taking care of marble requires a bit more work than other types of tile flooring, but the beauty it adds to your home will be worth it… Bear in mind that counter tops are more susceptible to etching than flooring. These types of tiles are cleaned using neutral pH cleaners, no acidic cleaners should be used. Also quickly remove spills like orange or tomato juice for example since they are acidic.  Using soft cleaning cloths and or mops are best when cleaning marble and abrasive cleaning equipment is not recommended when cleaning marble.

Granite tile is basically indestructible if you choose the right variety… It can be used in any room with no concern, including an entry way or outdoor patio.

Unlike marble, limestone and travertine, this type of tile does not etch the same way and rarely is staining a problem. There is basically an endless array of patterns and magnificent colors for you to choose from and tile cleaning is pretty easy but it is best to avoid acidic chemicals.

Like most floor tile, granite has maintenance requirements… Depending on the degree of use and wear, polished granite may require periodic re-polishing just like any polished stone floor will.

To help reduce the chance of staining, some types may need to be sealed to may tile cleaning easier.

Slate Tile

Rugged and rustic looking, this tile is definitely unique and loved by many. The distinctive characteristics are easy to spot and adds to its allure, but the up-keep can be over-whelming and is therefore not for everyone.  Slate is more porous and usually uneven so regular cleaning is a must, or using a stone sealer to may tile cleaning is also recommended.  Since slate is more porous it will stain easier and stains can be stubborn.  Grease stains for example are difficult on a floor like this which is unsealed, and you will likely have to resort to using a poultice to remove this type of staining.  For general maintenance neutral cleaner is best and using less detergent is better leaving soap residue behind will only attract the dirt fast and make tile cleaning ore difficult.

Not all slate is alike and the quality can vary widely from soft and crumbly to hard and dense. The more expensive the slate the easier it will be to maintain,

Slate is usually thought of as gray, but it comes in colors, too. You will find green, blue, black, gray, rust and multi-color.

Most slate must be sealed to prevent staining. The cleft (ridges) finish slate is noted for collects dirt easily. Also, any element that is acidic will cause etching (corrosion) if it comes into contact with slate tiles.

Slate may not be the best choice for large flooring areas because of the the up-keep it requires. Having it honed (smoothed) will reduce the time and care needed to keep your flooring looking its best…

Cleaning Natural Stone Flooring

The main factor in cleaning natural stone is the initial treatment of the floor, for easy tile cleaning using a stone sealer is best and if you desire a unfinished look that is not sealed then frequent tile cleaning is necessary.  Consider a wet vacuum so you can use a combination of water detergent and by vacuuming with a wet vac will help keep the tiles cleaner. Use as little detergent as possible; remember excess soap will attract dirt faster.  Always use a Ph balanced soap or detergent.

Porcelain Tile

Porcelain is steadily gaining in status as an alternative to stone or ceramic tile. Its characteristics are equal to natural stone tile without the price. Also, it is more durable, longer wearing and more damage resistant than ceramic, which make it suitable for any area in your home.

Full-bodied porcelain carry the color and patterns throughout its thickness making it virtually impervious to wear and suitable for residential, commercial and industrial highest traffic application.

If you like the stone tile look, but fear the price porcelain tile comes closer to duplicating the look of natural stone tiles.

Nearly maintenance free and cleaning is a breeze with just soap and water and is highly resistant to stains.  There are some porcelain tiles with matte finishes which are designed to reduce the slipperiness or just because the desire is to not have a shine floor.  Thee matte finished floors can be a challenge and can trap the dirt easier, in which case more frequent or specialized tile cleaning is necessary.

Ceramic Tile

Popularity has greatly increased for ceramic flooring as an alternative to natural stone tile. It wears well in light to moderate traffic areas, but is more prone to chipping and wear than is porcelain tile.

Of all the hard tiles, ceramic offers the most choices in colors, shapes and patterns. It’s suitability for any room makes ceramic a versatile tile floor covering.

The finishing glaze may give it a plastic or wet look (depending on your choice of color & pattern). None-the-less, it has great eye-appeal and style.

It provides better traction than most stone tiles and is resistant to water and stains. No special cleaning agents are needed; diluted household detergent will work just fine.

Saltillo Tile

Saltillo tile captures the rich yellow-orange colors of the South-western desert clay it is made of. In a class by itself, each tile is made by hand and no two tiles are the same…

Its uniqueness and color cannot be compared to any other floor tile and is what people are drawn to and love…

The downside, clay is very porous and stains easily. In colder climates it may crack and scratch more easily. NOT the best choice for kitchen or bathroom.

Lack of uniform tiles makes them difficult and consequently expensive to install. Saltillo tile should be sealed before, immediately after and every six months thereafter once installed.

Cork Tile

Growing by leaps and bounds cork tile is quickly becoming the flooring of choice over other types of tile, and especially so for kitchens and bathrooms.

Long-wearing, affordable, rich and warm looking, easy to take care of and easy to install are just a few features why it has gained such popularity!

It’s natural insulating and sound proofing properties, resistance to friction, impact, moisture, dust, bacteria, mold and rot make it suitable for any room!

With so many incredible colors, patterns and designs available, there is something to fit any life style and the creative mind… just imagine.

Cork floor tile require very little maintenance… once installed apply a coat of acrylic varnish sealant, and re-apply the sealant when the tiles begin looking dull.  Otherwise a good neutral pH cleaner is best for cleaning this tile.

Rubber Tile

Made from synthetic materials rubber tiles are square and available in many sizes, thickness, colors, simulated stones, patterns, textures and finish. They are hard-wearing and resistant to most flooring issues, but can mark easily. These tiles are better suited for wet areas like the kitchen, bathroom, utility room or garage, but work well in a child’s bedroom or play room too. They are affordable, practical and very contemporary, with minor drawbacks compared to other types of tile.

Dirt can accumulate in raised or dimpled textures and light colors show the dirt more easily. Special products are needed for polishing the surface and sealing.

Rubber tiles are not difficult to install, but are heavier and harder to handle than cork, vinyl or linoleum tiles.

Summary

To summarize there are some consistent things you should be looking for and doing when performing your tile cleaning. Look at the best way to seal both the tiles and the grout after the tiles have been installed.  Maintain that sealer based on the recommendations of the manufacture, but the basic rule of thumb is when the finish is looking dull you need to re-seal.  This alone is the largest factor in keeping your tiles clean.

Always use a neutral pH cleaner, avoid acidic or alkaline cleaners both will remove floor finishes.  Acidic cleaners will damage some natural stone like marble etc. Some examples of acidic cleaners are CLR, vinegar while bleach is highly  alkaline etc.  The pH of orange juice is 3.0, while baking soda has a pH of 9.0

The speed of cleaning up spills and stains are also important when cleaning tiles.  Don’t let that grape juice take hold and soak into the tile and or likely the grout, clean up as soon as the spill occurs.  Take the time to cleaning your tile really well before attempting to seal, you may have to go as far as using a poultice for removing stains when cleaning natural stone tile.  Going the extra mile before sealing will go a long way to make tile cleaning an easy maintenance task for the life of your tiles.

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Grout Cleaning

In this post, we’re going to talk a little about grout cleaning, but before we do, I thought it might be helpful to provide a little background.

Grout used between tiles and is a mixture of cement, color, and sand.

If not properly maintained by sealing and cleaning grout will become discoloured and full of mold and mildew. So when possible apply a grout sealer whenever installing tiles and grouting plan to apply grout sealer which will make the grout cleaning much easier.

Dirt will collect porous holes on the grout surface and if it is not sealed, the grout will discolor because there is no protective sealer which covers, fills and permeates the porous surface. If not sealed, even mopping the floor will cause discoloration to the unsealed grout. All the dirt-filled holes will hold on tightly to the dirt and the mop will just move the dirt from one little hole to the other. When mopping, your tile grout (which has a rough surface) basically cleans the dirty mop by allowing the dirt in the mop water to fill in the tiny holes.

Bottom line, if your grout is not sealed, it will become nasty, dingy and covered in dirt; thereby increasing the amount of grout cleaning you are going to have to do! Mold and mildew that is lurking in your damp shower will turn your grout to a nasty shade, too — all the way from a delicate pink to mottled brown, speckled or even solid black.

grout cleaning

The best way to clean it is to use water and general purpose cleaner to loosen the dirt from the grout and use a wet/dry vacuum to pull the dirt back up and out of the holes. Look for a stiff brush or a brush designed for grout, which are usually narrow and have tapered brushes. Scrubbing using a general purpose cleaner is fine, you can use a dilution of chlorine bleach and water mixed at 1 part bleach and 5 parts water.  The bleach dilution is particularly effective in cases where you have mold or mildew.

Once you have cleaned the grout take the time to seal the grout with a very good remember you get what you pay for, grout sealer. If you elect not to seal the grout, you will have a very nasty mess in a short amount of time – which will cause you to again go out and search the Internet for this page. If you don’t protect your grout with a sealer, it will become dirty and very difficult to maintain – period. Also use floor mats in your door ways to help keep the floors clean. In cleaning prevention is the key, using an entrance mat, or doing the extra work to seal the grout will go a long way to make ongoing grout cleaning much less work.

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Yellow linoleum floors

Here is a question I received by email recently, the answer may help others with similar potential issues….

I removed a rubber backed mat from my white floor in front of my kitchen sink, and the area under the mat has turned yellow. What will remove this stain?

The short answer is nothing. It is likely a linoleum floor, which as a result of have moisture trapped under the mat, has left this permanent yellowing. There is no way to remove this type of stain. The best solution is yet another mat to hide the stain, or to replacing the flooring. A jute or natural backed mat will permit moisture to escape, and will not cause further damage.

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Tar from Hard Floors

“I just found what I think are tar marks all over my new “5 month old” wood floor. I believe they were made from the bottom of my child’s cast (broken foot). She must have tracked them in from outside. They are all over……..Please, any advice would be great.”

Tar is easily removed with a general- purpose solvent (even rubbing alcohol if you want to save the trip to the hardware store). Be sure to test a small area first to be sure no damage will occur.

Using a cleaning towel or cotton ball, place some solvent on the towel and wipe.

There are citrus based cleaners which are not as harsh as solvents which can also do an effective job, its also worth it to try a magic eraser I have seen it remove some pretty bad stains will no ill effects.

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Keep your vacuum odor free

Lately, we have received many requests for information about what to do about odors that occur when one uses their vacuum. Understand that just due to the nature of what a vacuum is used for – namely picking up and storing dirt & dust – it is not realistic to expect a vacuum to be completely odor free (especially as it gets older).

However, there are some simple, effective procedures you can follow that will go a long way to keeping this problem under control:

1) Make sure that all the filters in the vacuum are clean or, if necessary, replaced if needed. Dirty, moist filters are an excellent medium for the growth of mold, mildew and other odor sources.

2) Look at the dust bag or dirt cup. Often they have never been washed or cleaned even after years of use. Certainly smells will emit from any area where dirt & dust are collected. Even the use of new paper filter bags can’t prevent some residue from collecting in the compartment they reside in. Take some time to wash out – with mild detergent and water – the unit’s dust bag or dirt cup. **Make absolutely sure any component of your vacuum it completely dry before using. **

3) If you have an upright vacuum or a power-head the roller brush and fan chamber may need to be wiped out and all debris removed. Do what you are comfortable with; ie.,clean the parts you know you can easily put back together. (Many vacuums are designed for easy access to the beater bar and fan chamber). At very least you can wipe down the underside of the vacuum.

4) Check out any hoses and attachments. Do they need cleaning? Removable pieces can be washed in a sink of soap & water. DO NOT soak hoses that have a power line within them. These and permanently affixed hoses can be cleaned with a slightly damp cloth attached to a pole.

5) Finally, there are available several products that can be added to your vacuuming process that lesson odors and add a scent to freshen the air. Our favorite is an environmentally friendly blend which you sprinkle a tablespoon on your carpet and vacuum into a freshly changed filter bag or emptied dirt cup. There are several pleasant scents that last till the next bag change.

We hope that these steps help with any vacuum source odors you may have. Remember to always unplug your vacuum before ever working on it. Also, since most odors in your home originate from your carpet, your vacuum reflects how clean your carpets are.

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Blue Dye on Linoleum Floors

This question was submitted from Malanuk.

“I have blue dye on my new linoleum floor from a paper bag. What can I use to get it out?”

This is a tough one, we have had success and failure with this problem. Linoleum is, unfortunately, not very resilient (translation…stains easy).

Try these techniques :

I would use a general purpose solvent or even rubbing alcohol, which is usually recommended to remove ink.

If it doesn’t wipe off, you may have to use a medium aggressive scrubbing pad (green).

Either way, using a strong chemical and scrubbing you will have to apply a wax to the floor to protect at least the area you cleaned. Remember always test a small area first before using a chemical or technique you have not used before on the surface you are cleaning.

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Candle Wax Stains From Linoleum Floors

This question was submitted from Bethany G.

“How can I remove candle wax stain from a linoleum floor ? ”

Try these techniques :

I would hope that you have first tried to remove as much of the residual wax as possible with a scraper or putty knife. If a stain remains after you have scrapped the area, it’s usually an indication that the offending material has penetrated into the residual wax finish. Worse yet, there is a chance that the stain has traveled through into floor covering or linoleum.

There are cases where I have found problems dealing with issues such as this. Where the floor material is battleship linoleum, and has very little sealer or wax on the area where the stain occurred. Often the stain will travel so far into the linoleum it leaches down to the sub floor and becomes permanent.

The only way I can see you removing the stain at this point, is to thoroughly strip the floor with a good quality wax stripper. Your best chance of finding a high quality product is at a janitorial supply, as the products they sell are used by professionals. You can often get support in resolving your cleaning problems, as well as directions on the proper use of product. Its important to follow the directions on the product you choose, and to ensure that the area is immersed with the stripping solution and allowed time to dissolve the offending stain.

Some agitation with a scrub brush, synthetic pad or very fine steel wool is usually required along with the stripping solution to penetrate the wax layers and build up. There are also products available that require very little agitation. Be careful not to scrub too vigorously over the stained area, as you can wear away the top layer or factory finish of the flooring material. This will leave you with an area that is off coloured from the remainder of the floor, and be just as unsightly as the original stain.

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Ceramic Floor Tiles

Tools & Technique :
Often found in bathrooms, change rooms and around pools, ceramic tiles are glazed and non-absorbent. Any staining is on the surface and can be removed by the appropriate cleaner. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch the glaze. Also use highly acid cleaners sparingly and limit contact time.

Grouting between ceramic tiles is more difficult to maintain. Some grouting is treated with a clear silicone seal, which greatly reduces its ability to absorb stains. Untreated grouting needs to be cleaned often to prevent dirt build-up and discoloration. Often you will need a stronger cleaner and a grout brush for more thorough cleaning.

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