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Garden Tools

How can I clean up my garden tools for springtime? I have rust all over them. Thanks, Dixie

We have shrub trimmers, shovels, rakes, edgers, weed pullers, hoes, pruning shears, pitch forks, hole diggers, axes, and a hundred other tools. As different as all these tools are, they do have a few things in common. Most of these tools have wooden handles and an attached metal implement. Metal and wood can last generations if they are properly cared for. Mind you, it isn’t likely that you will be handing down your axe to your great grand children, but if you were able to keep your tools for a lifetime, wouldn’t you?
Most of this maintenance is typically done in the fall, before you store your tools at the end of the season. In the spring it can be a bit depressing to grind rust from a shovel, sand down the handle, and hone the cutting edge, only to thrust it into a pile of gooey mud.

For wooden handles, check for cracks and splinters. The handles can become rough over time, which is a precursor to splintering, and inevitable slivers. Sand with a fine 100 grit sandpaper, and treat with boiled linseed oil.

Some gardeners suggest painting the handles a bright color, so your tools are easily located in the garden. Use Marine Enamel paint, and try keeping the same color for all your tools, which make identification easier when you spot them in your neighbors yard. Bright, ugly colors are less likely to be stolen, and will add character to your garden shed.

For the metal implement, the best tip is to always keep them clean and dry. Hose them down and dry them after each use. For longer storage periods, spray the tool with WD-40, which will act as a vapor barrier, and protect it from rust. If you have a tool with rust, add a metal brush to your drill, and goggles to your face, and grind away. Most surface rust will come out very quickly. Always oil this surface, or protect it with paint (see above). Marine Enamel paint will also work well on the business end, however on shovels and hoes it will likely wear off within a season, rakes or less used tools might last a couple of years.

Most tools have a cutting edge of some kind. Even your hoe should be sharpened! Use an aluminum oxide disc on your drill to restore this edge. This is less accurate, but much faster than a file or a wet stone. Never grind for long periods, as the metal will lose its temper if it becomes too hot. If it is badly deteriorated, grind a bit, then let it cool for a few minutes before resuming.

Always wear safety glasses while working on cleaning and protecting your tools. Happy gardening!

Hardwood Floor Unfinished

Here is a recently submited question:

How do I clean and make a hardwood floor glossy without refinishing?

Information:

You can use a few different off the shelf products which both clean and add polish to the floor. You should be sure that you have really swept or vacuumed the floor well before using these products. Since they have solids in them (wax) and dust will affect the apperance.

You could also use a wood soap such as a Murphy’s Oil soap which will leave a bit of a sheen after cleaning. However the shine will not last with the above methods and you will have to constantly reapply them.

If you have hardwood that is very worn you may have to apply the cleaner/polish product a few times to get the shine up as the wood absorbs the wax.

Tools & Techniques:

Use a hardwood floor mop and a spray bottle to apply the cleaner/polish.
Spray only an area that you can effectively clean.
A hardwood floor mop looks like a dust mop only the fibers are shorter with a large surface area for polishing and cleaning.
If you don’t have a mop use something like a beach towel which will do an effective job of polishing, but is hard on the knees.

Paint from Brick

Brick is a very porous material. Many paints and coatings “soak in” to brick or concrete, and this can make them difficult to remove. If the paint is primarily on the surface, a good scrubbing with a mildly acidic cleaner works best. But if the paint has penetrated, you will have to do a heavy etching with muriatic acid to remove it. Working with Muriatic acid can be dangerous so make sure you read all the instructions so you don’t hurt yourself or the bricks.

There are some specialized coating removers that come in a paste form that work well for this type of application, but they are not widely available at this point in time. The Hydrostrip line from ICI or a product called Masonry Strip available from Napier Environmental Technologies are the products to look for. They are also sold under the Biowash.com brand name found in paint stores like Sherwin Williams, Cloverdale Paint, and major home centers like Home Depot etc. check www.Biowash.com for a 1-800 to locate the product near you.

Rust stains from a driveway

Our driveway (concrete) has rust stains from the radiator of my husband’s truck….what would be the most effective way to remove these unsightly stains?
Mary


I recently came across a product that I think might be of help to you. It is called “Rusty”. Check our their web site at www.ironout.com . They have an excellent store locator, so you can find where to purchase this product in your area.

Body oil from Hot Tubs

Tips & Timesavers:
Body oils can be bothersome in hot tubs. This is lessened by regular cleanings of the tub, but you can buy a specialty product called a Zorbie which can be placed directly into your hot tub. It floats and it absorbs body oils which results in keeping your tub much cleaner looking.

Cloudy Pool Water

Here is a question from Angelina;

I can’t get the little particles out of my pool, they just go through the net.

Pool season is once again upon us, which is great except all the work to get the pool going. What would help you a great deal is a clarifier which helps maintain the sparkle by coagulating small particles into larger masses which will enable your filter or skimmer to remove them. You should add clarifier as part of your start up procedure. You should read the directions of the brand you buy however since there are many chemical makers with different concentrations etc.

Watch the filter pressure and back wash as necessary since the particulates will fill the filter (which is what you want in order to have sparkling water).

A pool supply store is a great resource, they usually test your water for free and they test everything from ph to calcium hardness etc. which is essential if you want your pool components to last. Have Fun!

Hot Tub Filter

This question was submitted from George S.

“Any suggestions how to clean a hot tub filter?”

I use an enzyme chemical. There are so many manufacturers of pool chemicals the name really could be anything. The enzyme is also used directly in the tub or pool to prevent scum build up by breaking down organic material.

Try these techniques :

When cleaning my filter I pour this enzyme over the filter let it sit for one hour and proceeded to rinse with a hose. The results have always been better than just rinsing with water alone.

In really bad cases place the filter in a large bucket and mix warm water and the enzyme for a more effective pre-soak.

Hot Tubs

Tools & Techniques:
The proper cleaning of a hot tub begins with proper chemical treatment. Follow your manufacturers instructions, or see a pool or hot tub dealer for advice on treating your hot tubs with the appropriate chemicals. Remember to clean your filter on a regular basis. For example, clean the filter when you are cleaning your hot tub. Manufacturers would recommend filter cleaning more frequently, however it maybe more realistic to do so when cleaning your tub. To properly clean your hot tub you drain it completely so you can use a soft cloth or sponge to thoroughly clean the inside of the hot tub.

Use a manufacturer recommended product or mild detergent (Most tubs are acrylic, do not use anything abrasive). Rinse your tub before refilling to prevent soap suds when turning on your tub. The frequency of cleaning depends on the frequency of use, a general rule of thumb is once every three months.

Tips & Timesavers:
Body oils can be bothersome in hot tubs this is lessened by regular cleaning of the tub. You can buy a specialty product called a ”Zorbie” which can be placed directly into your hot tub, it floats and it absorbs body oils keeping your tub that much cleaner.

Brass Door Knocker

I have a laquered brass door knocker that has been exposed to weather for many years. What is the best way to clean it without damaging it?
Ellie


Brass begins to develop a patina within hours of being exposed to the elements. Brass is a alloy of copper and zinc, and although when cleaned and polished it can have a brilliant shine, if it is not protected it can tarnish and actually pit the surface. Most brass architectural hardware, such as your door knocker have a protective coating applied to them. These coatings prevent immediate damage, however almost all fail after a few years of exposure. This said, there are some new technologies in coatings which are much more durable than those applied even a few years ago.

If your door knocker has had one of these coatings, you will be able to tell if it appears the surface is protected in some areas, yet damaged in others. Some of these coatings appear to flake off of the protected surface. You can try cleaning the piece yourself, however if the damage has pitted the surface, or if the protective finish is only partially intact, you will likely not be very happy with your efforts.

If the surface is completely intact, washing with a mild detergent (such as dish soap) is enough to remove the grime that accumulates over the years. It is a good idea to protect the lacquered surface with a couple of coats of high quality paste wax. This will prevent the elements from damaging the lacquer finish itself, and effectively provides another barrier to the brass itself.

If the piece does not appear to have a protective coating, you can try a metal polish. Metal polishes have a very fine pumice suspended by detergents and sometimes a wax. You apply the cleaning polish, and rub, and rub, and rub. And finally to polish the piece, you buff some more with a clean dry cotton cloth.
Once the piece is polished, you need to protect it with a lacquer that is suitable for outside elements. I have also heard of using several coats of automotive paste wax, to prevent elements from reaching the brass, although you cannot control the glossiness of the piece when using wax (lacquer’s at least come in different gloss levels).

For serious damage, a professional will take your piece, and possibly sandblast it to remove pitting and the remaining protective coating. They will then polish and apply a protective coating.

Double Glazed Windows

This question was submitted from Caitriona C.

“How do I clean the interior of double glazed windows”

If you are referring to the inside of a double glazed window the answer is you can’t clean it.

If the window has dirt or moisture, etc. on the inside it has been compromised and must be replaced since it no longer has a seal and the effectiveness of the window is completely negated.

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